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Old 07-25-2011, 01:26 AM   #31 (permalink)
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Forgot to list.

I believe that injector pump still pump fuel if you off pedal.

I would put shift in neutral when stoplight so it coast like 1-2 miles from 45 mph to 25 mph. Let rpm at idle.


That how I got 20 mpg in city. I have hard time believe those people say they only get 10-16 mpg out IDI with 5 speed.



Have you try coast? Like you drive 45 mph and there stop sign or light change red then try coast to avoid use sudden brake.

Example bad driver waste gas. Light change RED or stop sign but driver still drive 45 mph until it 40 feet close then SLAM BRAKE HARDER. No coast.

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Old 07-25-2011, 01:29 AM   #32 (permalink)
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Haha! he dragged me over here from FTE.....

For what its worth, I'm able to get 19 MPG towing a 20' flatbed trailer with 16" walls if I can keep it at 55 MPH. Same speed empty nets me 24 MPG.

With 3.08 gears and the transmission in overdrive, that puts me at 1200 RPM roughly. I will eventually retest those conditions in 3rd gear to see if the fuel economy is better or worse but the engine seems content to run at those low RPMs as long as the loading doesn't cause smoke lugging.
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Old 07-25-2011, 01:34 AM   #33 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by david85 View Post
Haha! he dragged me over here from FTE.....

For what its worth, I'm able to get 19 MPG towing a 20' flatbed trailer with 16" walls if I can keep it at 55 MPH. Same speed empty nets me 24 MPG.

With 3.08 gears and the transmission in overdrive, that puts me at 1200 RPM roughly. I will eventually retest those conditions in 3rd gear to see if the fuel economy is better or worse but the engine seems content to run at those low RPMs as long as the loading doesn't cause smoke lugging.

My old f250 was alway LOADED with tools I would say mostly it around 500-1000 lb in bed depend what work I do.

I have T19 4 speed with 3.55 No overdrive so highway I cruise 60 about 2,100 rpm if I remember. Tire were highway type. Size 235/85/16


I am hearing impaired so I only feel when it lug it act like struggle acceleration that mean rpm are too low to run with stuff in bed.
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Old 07-25-2011, 02:02 AM   #34 (permalink)
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Yeah for acceleration or getting over hills, I allow the RPMs to go above 1500 or more depending on the conditions. It can crawl over shallow or brief hills at 1200, but for longer ones I'll lock out overdrive and let it pull the way it wants. I think our trailer is about 1500 lbs empty.

I generally keep an eye on the side mirror to decide when I'm crossing the thresh hold for ideal running. I'm starting to give serious thought to installing a fuel aneriod from hypermax.
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Old 07-25-2011, 01:49 PM   #35 (permalink)
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Quote:
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I got much better mileage if I put about 2-3 gallons of used clean oil in tank. I did put oil in there first then go to diesel refill then reset mile.
Did you account for the oil when you you calculated the mileage ?
If you put it into the fuel tank, you're using it as fuel.
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Old 07-25-2011, 02:22 PM   #36 (permalink)
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Did you account for the oil when you you calculated the mileage ?
If you put it into the fuel tank, you're using it as fuel.

To make clear. I put used oil in tank first then go to gas station and refill tank to FULL then drive for about 300 miles then go straight to gas station and refill tank FULL then calculate.
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Old 07-25-2011, 08:44 PM   #37 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Milwaukee View Post
Found you from FTE.


Well my thought with idi 7.3L I used to own 87 F250 6.9L they are alike.

They get horrible mileage when it cold so you could try running little hotter thermostat like powerstroke 7.3L come with 203oF

They don't like run low rpm work. Mine get worse mileage if I have rpm around 1300-1600. Try run at 1700-2000 rpm it should improve.

City mile is BIGGEST KILLER. I try coast much I can in high traffic in city. It get 18-20 in warmer weather. In winter it 14-15.


I got much better mileage if I put about 2-3 gallons of used clean oil in tank. I did put oil in there first then go to diesel refill then reset mile. After that I refill with straight diesel. I saw 21 mpg city but it was slightly running hotter.


What psi you running on tires?



Have you thought of rewire switch to torque convertor to stay LOCK while you cruise 45 mph but turn off so it let rpm drop to idle while you coast.

My 00 F350 if I keep overdrive off I can let rpm drop to 600-700 while coast 25 to 55 mph. If I let overdrive ON it annoy it keep Lock torque convertor too early when you are try to coast it act like brake.
well,i have electric engine fans,and try to run around 210-220 degrees normally.
i run around 1400 rpm mostly @ 45MPH.
in order to get higher rpms,id need to go faster (wouldn't help because im pushing a large dump bed.speed is my killer) or id need to lock out over drive and just run third gear all the time.
im not interested in going backwards.
i feel the lower the rpms,the better the FE with the diesel.
but,what the heck,i'll go ahead and try a tank without using OD once.you have me curious enough to try it,but it wont be until 10 more tanks or so,as i want to see what the newly installed air dam yields over the course of the next 10,without any changes.i'll trying running your rpms on a tank,but im very,very skeptical.
when i do,i'll reply back here (could be a month or so.)



im running max tire pressure in all 6 tires.

i have thought about putting the torque convertor on a switch,so that i could lock it up sooner.but as is,it locks up at 32-35 mph.not sure id want to mess around trying to lock it any sooner due to the truck weighing in at over 8,000lbs empty.
that said,
the TC does disengage when you let off the throttle to coast to a stop,and locks back up when you just touch the fuel again.
when i let off to come to a stop,she drops right off well below 1k rpm at 45 mph.



Quote:
Originally Posted by Milwaukee View Post
Forgot to list.

I believe that injector pump still pump fuel if you off pedal.

I would put shift in neutral when stoplight so it coast like 1-2 miles from 45 mph to 25 mph. Let rpm at idle.


That how I got 20 mpg in city. I have hard time believe those people say they only get 10-16 mpg out IDI with 5 speed.



Have you try coast? Like you drive 45 mph and there stop sign or light change red then try coast to avoid use sudden brake.

Example bad driver waste gas. Light change RED or stop sign but driver still drive 45 mph until it 40 feet close then SLAM BRAKE HARDER. No coast.
this truck weighs too much,and pushes too much air to be able to coast 1-2 miles.
if im going 45 mph,and let it coast to a stop,on the flat it would probably only go a 1/4 mile until stopping on its own.thats probably being kind too.

when im sitting at a stoplight and the light just turned red,i often do slip her in N rather than keeping it in drive sometimes.
if i know i'll be stopping at a light or sign,sometimes i will slip in N before getting there too.

10-16 mpg for a SRW stock pickup going over the flat road for an hour or more at a time at a pretty constant speed, out on the flat,could be kinda low.but you need to remember im;
a.DRW
b.large frontal area dump body
c.weigh in at 8100 lbs when empty(full of fuel and tools-no passengers though),and this truck isn't for running empty. often i'm carrying a couple ton or more in the bed,and towing another ton as well.
d.never out on the flat interstate.i drive hilly back curvy roads in rural Maine.if it's not that,then im in the city,which yields even lower FE.
so under these conditions,10-16 is actually better IMHO than a pickup running empty out on the flat interstate pushing 20 mpgs empty.

when looking at my FE,you need think,large wind pushing dump bed,12-16k gross averages on rural hilly roads with various alternating speeds of 25 MPH zones through 45 MPH zones (occasionally 55's but those are our larger roads.i like to be on those when possible.those help a lot,and i still try to stick to 45 when i have the time too.) along with that 14+ lifetime FE.
taking everything into account,you can see this to be not too shabby.
also im non turbocharged still..........but this will change at some point.
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Last edited by FORDF250HDXLT; 07-25-2011 at 08:56 PM..
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Old 07-27-2011, 01:08 AM   #38 (permalink)
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so do i have this right?
its a 7.3L IDI N\A, with E4OD auto trans 25% O\D, and 3.55 gears

if it is, direct drive will put you right at the 1,800 rpm MAX torque at 45 mph
factory turbo IDIs are 1,400 rpms
and the first power strokes 1994 1/2 year model, are 2,000 rpms for MAX torque.
non turbo 7.3Ls and 6.9Ls had two HP ratings each.
166 and 185 depending on what country they where made in.
don't remember what the 6.9Ls rating is but its a little less.






using your truck for work, you may know this but if not, read up......
are two auto trans fords 89 and 94 do a very strange thing but they do it from the factory

if the hazards are on it makes the converter stay unlocked, at all times.
same as pushing the brake and fuel peddle at the same time and unlocking the converter. the hazards use the same wiring as the brake peddel and delock the converter.

we KFC COUNTRY FRIED a E4OD with the 12.5K dozer on the trailer do to this.....


also for some E4ODs some do it with out help.
when you lock it in 2nd gear with the shift lever and go WOT with out the hazards on...
you can lock the converter in 2nd gear. about 300/400 rpm drop on a steep hill pull with a big load a massive drop in trans temp
but if you take your foot off the fuel peddle, you must repeat the proses.
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Old 07-27-2011, 01:33 AM   #39 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by trooper Tdiesel View Post
so do i have this right?
its a 7.3L IDI N\A, with E4OD auto trans 25% O\D, and 3.55 gears

if it is, direct drive will put you right at the 1,800 rpm MAX torque at 45 mph
factory turbo IDIs are 1,400 rpms
and the first power strokes 1994 1/2 year model, are 2,000 rpms for MAX torque.
non turbo 7.3Ls and 6.9Ls had two HP ratings each.
166 and 185 depending on what country they where made in.
don't remember what the 6.9Ls rating is but its a little less.






using your truck for work, you may know this but if not, read up......
are two auto trans fords 89 and 94 do a very strange thing but they do it from the factory

if the hazards are on it makes the converter stay unlocked, at all times.
same as pushing the brake and fuel peddle at the same time and unlocking the converter. the hazards use the same wiring as the brake peddel and delock the converter.

we KFC COUNTRY FRIED a E4OD with the 12.5K dozer on the trailer do to this.....


also for some E4ODs some do it with out help.
when you lock it in 2nd gear with the shift lever and go WOT with out the hazards on...
you can lock the converter in 2nd gear. about 300/400 rpm drop on a steep hill pull with a big load a massive drop in trans temp
but if you take your foot off the fuel peddle, you must repeat the proses.
yeah.thats my setup,but with shorter than stock tires for an actual gear ratio of 3.84.1
so in overdrive im hanging around 1400 rpm @ 45 mph.

yeah,i read that hazard lite thing before.i checked it out and hit my flashers going down the road at 40,and sure enough.
what it did though was lock and unlock with the flashes lol,very odd.of course i turned them right back off,after just a couple times.it probably isn't good for it lol.
but i never have a use for them driving so fast,and would have never found this issue on my own at lockup speed.
when plowing though,im never going fast enough that the TC would lock,so there's no issues there.i experience no problem with flashers on when plowing,cus im only going like 10 mph max.

ok,this last part i haven't heard before.interesting.

..................

on another note,
this front air dam is looking like it's VERY effective on my truck.
this is all i have to say so far,because im only down 3/4 tank and don't want to jinks it.
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Last edited by FORDF250HDXLT; 07-27-2011 at 02:04 AM..
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Old 07-27-2011, 01:26 PM   #40 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Milwaukee View Post
To make clear. I put used oil in tank first then go to gas station and refill tank to FULL then drive for about 300 miles then go straight to gas station and refill tank FULL then calculate.
Fine, but then you've still added 2 or 3 gallons of oil to the fuel tank.
The oil is also burned as a fuel, so it should be taken into account.


If you added 2 gallons of oil, and later filled up with 20 gallons of fuel for say 200 miles, you didn't get 10 mpg.

You then used 22 gallons of fuels (oil + gas) for 200 miles - or 9.1 mpg.

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