10-16-2016, 11:10 AM
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#11 (permalink)
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Corporate imperialist
Join Date: Jul 2011
Location: NewMexico (USA)
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What exactly are you using for a charge controller, batteries and inverter?
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1984 chevy suburban, custom made 6.5L diesel turbocharged with a Garrett T76 and Holset HE351VE, 22:1 compression 13psi of intercooled boost.
1989 firebird mostly stock. Aside from the 6-speed manual trans, corvette gen 5 front brakes, 1LE drive shaft, 4th Gen disc brake fbody rear end.
2011 leaf SL, white, portable 240v CHAdeMO, trailer hitch, new batt as of 2014.
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Today
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10-17-2016, 02:16 PM
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#13 (permalink)
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Master EcoModder
Join Date: Feb 2011
Location: Phillips, WI
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You will never regret putting hinges on the lid. You will be able to stand inside (bent over, but standing) and pick up stuff that's near the front of the box.
Will you be using gas struts to hold the lid up? I got my gas struts from the local NAPA store - they had a catalog that listed sizes and force ratings.
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06 Canyon: The vacuum gauge plus wheel covers helped increase summer 2015 mileage to 38.5 MPG, while summer 2016 mileage was 38.6 MPG without the wheel covers. Drove 33,021 miles 2016-2018 at 35.00 MPG.
22 Maverick: Summer 2022 burned 62.74 gallons in 3145.1 miles for 50.1 MPG. Winter 2023-2024 - 2416.7 miles, 58.66 gallons for 41 MPG.
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10-17-2016, 03:19 PM
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#14 (permalink)
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Cyborg ECU
Join Date: Mar 2011
Location: Coastal Southern California
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Subscribed because this is being neatly and efficiently executed. Very cool.
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See my car's mod & maintenance thread and my electric bicycle's thread for ongoing projects. I will rebuild Black and Green over decades as parts die, until it becomes a different car of roughly the same shape and color. My minimum fuel economy goal is 55 mpg while averaging posted speed limits. I generally top 60 mpg. See also my Honda manual transmission specs thread.
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10-17-2016, 03:31 PM
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#15 (permalink)
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Corporate imperialist
Join Date: Jul 2011
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Don't get that inverter it's junk.
You do not want to used a modified sine wave inverter on pretty much anything.
You may want to consider AGM batteries too. They can be charged a lot faster than traditional deep cycle flooded lead acid and they resist vibration better than flooded.
I know how those rougha one roads are. I just spent 2 weeks there last month.
Just wondering, but do you really need the 45 amp controller?
Also you should consider a MPPT charger controler. Solar panels on vehicles tend to produce a fraction of rated power. An MPPT controller maximizes the power you can get from them.
__________________
1984 chevy suburban, custom made 6.5L diesel turbocharged with a Garrett T76 and Holset HE351VE, 22:1 compression 13psi of intercooled boost.
1989 firebird mostly stock. Aside from the 6-speed manual trans, corvette gen 5 front brakes, 1LE drive shaft, 4th Gen disc brake fbody rear end.
2011 leaf SL, white, portable 240v CHAdeMO, trailer hitch, new batt as of 2014.
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10-17-2016, 03:36 PM
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#16 (permalink)
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Corporate imperialist
Join Date: Jul 2011
Location: NewMexico (USA)
Posts: 11,266
Thanks: 273
Thanked 3,569 Times in 2,833 Posts
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__________________
1984 chevy suburban, custom made 6.5L diesel turbocharged with a Garrett T76 and Holset HE351VE, 22:1 compression 13psi of intercooled boost.
1989 firebird mostly stock. Aside from the 6-speed manual trans, corvette gen 5 front brakes, 1LE drive shaft, 4th Gen disc brake fbody rear end.
2011 leaf SL, white, portable 240v CHAdeMO, trailer hitch, new batt as of 2014.
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10-18-2016, 03:13 PM
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#17 (permalink)
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Master EcoModder
Join Date: Apr 2011
Location: Tacoma WA
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Looks like a nice, practical build. Thanks for sharing it.
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2007 Dodge Ram 3500 SRW 4x4 with 6MT
2003 TDI Beetle
2002 TDI Beetle
currently parked - 1996 Dodge 2500 Cummins Turbodiesel
Custom cab, auto, 3.55 gears
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10-18-2016, 05:00 PM
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#18 (permalink)
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EcoModding Lurker
Join Date: Oct 2016
Location: U.S.
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JRMichler
You will never regret putting hinges on the lid. You will be able to stand inside (bent over, but standing) and pick up stuff that's near the front of the box.
Will you be using gas struts to hold the lid up? I got my gas struts from the local NAPA store - they had a catalog that listed sizes and force ratings.
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The hinges were always a part of the plan, as this was always about building a tool box/workshop, not an aero lid.
Yes, I will be using gas cylinders, after I get a better idea of the weight of the lid and solar panel. I am also going to build rigid struts to hold it at cap height for when I need to drive with it up.
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10-18-2016, 05:33 PM
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#19 (permalink)
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Master EcoModder
Join Date: Apr 2011
Location: Tacoma WA
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I'd think about that. most of the time you can pull it down on the load with a bungee, when the lid has to be up for that load.
__________________
2007 Dodge Ram 3500 SRW 4x4 with 6MT
2003 TDI Beetle
2002 TDI Beetle
currently parked - 1996 Dodge 2500 Cummins Turbodiesel
Custom cab, auto, 3.55 gears
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10-18-2016, 05:41 PM
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#20 (permalink)
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EcoModding Lurker
Join Date: Oct 2016
Location: U.S.
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Quote:
Originally Posted by oil pan 4
Don't get that inverter it's junk.
You do not want to used a modified sine wave inverter on pretty much anything.
You may want to consider AGM batteries too. They can be charged a lot faster than traditional deep cycle flooded lead acid and they resist vibration better than flooded.
I know how those rougha one roads are. I just spent 2 weeks there last month.
Just wondering, but do you really need the 45 amp controller?
Also you should consider a MPPT charger controler. Solar panels on vehicles tend to produce a fraction of rated power. An MPPT controller maximizes the power you can get from them.
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Got any evidence to support your claim that Krieger inverters are "junk"? Because I already bought two of them, and the 1100-watt has been working fine for months.
I've been running modified wave inverters for a good five years now, and have yet to find anything that wouldn't run on them, including desktops, laptops, TVs and monitors both flat screen and CRT, refrigerators, shop vacs, and power tools. Of course if you'd like to buy a 2000-watt pure sine wave inverter and send it to me, I'll be happy to give it a try.
AGM batteries aren't worth all the extra money unless you're forced to use them because you're putting them in an airplane or are extremely limited in installation attitude. They can't be charged as fast as wet batteries because they must be charged at a lower voltage to prevent over-gassing and thermal damage. They have less capacity per pound. They cannot be maintained. And you can never get a true measure of their state of charge because you have no access to the electrolyte to use a hydrometer.
As for vibration, I rubber-mount everything to do with electronics to absorb it.
Watts = Amps x Volts. 620 watts solar / 14.8 volts charging = 41.9 Amps. Yes, I do really need a 45-amp charge controller. Two of them, in fact.
As for MPPT controllers, they're not worth the money on 12v panels just to get maybe an extra 5-10%. And solar panels on vehicles work just fine, assuming they're installed correctly.
Thanks for the advice, but my system design was carefully thought-out long before I started posting here.
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