02-16-2015, 10:43 AM
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#1 (permalink)
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EcoModding Lurker
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Air Dam
I am interested in installing an undertray and my car has a factory air dam/chin spoiler. What is the best approach when installing and undertray here? Remove the factory piece and tuck the undertray up under the bumper skin, or tie into the factory piece?
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02-16-2015, 11:02 AM
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#2 (permalink)
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T-100 Road Warrior
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I guess it depends on what vehicle you are trying to mod.
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02-16-2015, 11:17 AM
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#3 (permalink)
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EcoModding Lurker
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BamZipPow
I guess it depends on what vehicle you are trying to mod.
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14 Ford Fiesta ecoboost hatchback
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02-16-2015, 11:48 AM
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#4 (permalink)
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Master EcoModder
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Whatever you do should be bullet-proof. My son's SRT-8 came with a factory partial pan under the engine. The front drooped, caught air and tore itself off. And that was a factory part.
I think it comes down to whether it needs to be removable for engine service. Maybe a C-channel to catch the front edge, held forward by the fasteners elsewhere?
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02-16-2015, 12:04 PM
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#5 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by freebeard
Whatever you do should be bullet-proof. My son's SRT-8 came with a factory partial pan under the engine. The front drooped, caught air and tore itself off. And that was a factory part.
I think it comes down to whether it needs to be removable for engine service. Maybe a C-channel to catch the front edge, held forward by the fasteners elsewhere?
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I like the Idea of having a slot to fit it into, and I certainly want easy access for maintenance. I suppose I could pop rivet an aluminum lip to the back side of the factory piece, which would provide a slot for the pan to slide up into.
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02-16-2015, 08:05 PM
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#6 (permalink)
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Master EcoModder
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Quote:
Originally Posted by freebeard
My son's SRT-8 came with a factory partial pan under the engine. The front drooped, caught air and tore itself off. And that was a factory part.
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Probably wasn't refitted correctly by the last person who took it off
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02-16-2015, 10:48 PM
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#7 (permalink)
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EcoModding Apprentice
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What do you plan on making your under tray out of? If using coroplast you could use self tapping screws on the front carriage and cut out an access port to get to the oil pan plug. It also depends on how far you plan on letting the under tray extend from the front air dam.
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02-16-2015, 10:56 PM
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#8 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BrandonMods
What do you plan on making your under tray out of? If using coroplast you could use self tapping screws on the front carriage and cut out an access port to get to the oil pan plug. It also depends on how far you plan on letting the under tray extend from the front air dam.
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Coroplast is what I plan on using, but potentially I may use the 4'x8' sheets of the material you would line your shower with. I think it is cheaper and easier to get than coroplast. http://www.homedepot.com/p/PLASTEX-1...3003/202090190
Last edited by jimsiggy; 02-16-2015 at 11:02 PM..
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02-17-2015, 03:43 AM
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#9 (permalink)
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T-100 Road Warrior
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You will need to account fer frame flex. I don't think the C channel will hold up as well as you think it should. Also, the shower panels (FRP) will not perform well in a horizontal position and requires close spacing fer the support rails. The 4x8 panels easily weigh in about 30lbs.
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02-17-2015, 09:10 AM
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#10 (permalink)
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EcoModding Lurker
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BamZipPow
You will need to account fer frame flex. I don't think the C channel will hold up as well as you think it should. Also, the shower panels (FRP) will not perform well in a horizontal position and requires close spacing fer the support rails. The 4x8 panels easily weigh in about 30lbs.
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Noted, thanks.
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