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Old 02-17-2015, 10:55 AM   #11 (permalink)
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BamZipPow -- But if the C-channel just holds the edge and there are fasteners right behind it to hold the panel up, isn't it just a matter of sizing the parts? Especially if it is protected by the airdam?

For the material, my vote is for PolyMetal™. It has the strength of 5/8" plywood and 1/10th the weight. It's more expensive than plywood though.
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PolyMetal sign panels are comprised of a recycled thermoplastic core sandwiched between two sheets of finished aluminum on one or two sides. The recycled thermoplastic core lends itself to resisting moisture.

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Old 02-17-2015, 02:15 PM   #12 (permalink)
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What do you plan on making your under tray out of? If using coroplast you could use self tapping screws on the front carriage and cut out an access port to get to the oil pan plug. It also depends on how far you plan on letting the under tray extend from the front air dam.
You could also buy a vacuum pump. I have one for 10€. It comes with a thin hose witch will fit in the dipstick pipe. It works a charm
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Old 02-17-2015, 02:44 PM   #13 (permalink)
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BamZipPow -- But if the C-channel just holds the edge and there are fasteners right behind it to hold the panel up, isn't it just a matter of sizing the parts? Especially if it is protected by the airdam?

For the material, my vote is for PolyMetal™. It has the strength of 5/8" plywood and 1/10th the weight. It's more expensive than plywood though.
As the frame flexes going down the road and over pot holes and bumps, the edge (depending on the amount of overlap) could drop down and cause issues. It's more of being aware that there are different considerations based on the amount of flex which is usually unknown until you see the aftermath of destruction of engineering you thought you had. I guess you could test it by jacking up one wheel and seeing how much it affects the pan after you install it.
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Old 02-17-2015, 05:29 PM   #14 (permalink)
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Coroplast is what I plan on using, but potentially I may use the 4'x8' sheets of the material you would line your shower with. I think it is cheaper and easier to get than coroplast. 1/16 in. x 4 ft. x 8 ft. Plastic Panel-63003 - The Home Depot
It looks like that may be a good option to pursue. It looks like it is a fiberglass panel. The melting point is much higher than the temperature of exhaust.
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Old 02-17-2015, 06:21 PM   #15 (permalink)
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It looks like that may be a good option to pursue. It looks like it is a fiberglass panel. The melting point is much higher than the temperature of exhaust.
It has fiberglass fibers in the plastic panel. It's still a plastic panel and would melt/deform/weaken well before reaching the temperature of the exhaust gasses.

I can shape the FRP panels with my heat gun if that has anything to say about the working temp. Also, FRP will shatter/fracture when impacted without any support behind it.
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Old 02-17-2015, 06:23 PM   #16 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BamZipPow
Also, the shower panels (FRP) will not perform well in a horizontal position and requires close spacing fer the support rails. The 4x8 panels easily weigh in about 30lbs.
You might consider adding ribs; transverse on top and longitudinal underneath. That should stiffen it up.

Edit: Oops, crossposted. ==> POLYMETAL!
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Old 02-17-2015, 06:36 PM   #17 (permalink)
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What do you plan on making your under tray out of? If using coroplast you could use self tapping screws on the front carriage and cut out an access port to get to the oil pan plug. It also depends on how far you plan on letting the under tray extend from the front air dam.
http://ecomodder.com/forum/showthrea...tml#post466265

I have a full belly pan the entire length of the car on my Insight.

I used a scrap metal sign under the engine, and I tucked it in under the bumper and screwed self-tapping screws through the bumper, the metal piece, and a piece of 5/4" deck wood behind it to get a solid fit.
Everything behind that is coroplast "pallet liner" that I got for 2 bucks a piece, and overlapped from back to front using self-tapping screws, except for the area under the cat, where I used aluminum.

The entire thing cost me 24 bucks, and so far it has been rock-solid.
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Old 02-17-2015, 06:47 PM   #18 (permalink)
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http://ecomodder.com/forum/showthrea...tml#post466265

I have a full belly pan the entire length of the car on my Insight.

I used a scrap metal sign under the engine, and I tucked it in under the bumper and screwed self-tapping screws through the bumper, the metal piece, and a piece of 5/4" deck wood behind it to get a solid fit.
Everything behind that is coroplast "pallet liner" that I got for 2 bucks a piece, and overlapped from back to front using self-tapping screws, except for the area under the cat, where I used aluminum.

The entire thing cost me 24 bucks, and so far it has been rock-solid.
I think that is what I have conceived in my mind; heard a few horror stories about covering the area under the cat though; no issues for you? Do you have any pictures? Where specifically did you get the pallet covers, most pallets I see don't have anything over them.
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Old 02-17-2015, 07:01 PM   #19 (permalink)
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Coroplast is what I plan on using, but potentially I may use the 4'x8' sheets of the material you would line your shower with. I think it is cheaper and easier to get than coroplast. 1/16 in. x 4 ft. x 8 ft. Plastic Panel-63003 - The Home Depot
Take a hard look at that material before you buy.It may be so flimsy that no amount of short-span reinforcing structure behind it will be enough for it not to sag out of shape.

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