Alternator delete - a huge fuel saving potential?

[sser2]

Originally Posted by cRiPpLe_rOoStEr

I wouldn't feel so comfortable in a vehicle without any sort of genertor

Yes, it won't be care-free use. It will be necessary to constantly monitor battery's state of charge, and refill in a timely fashion. The same way one monitors the fuel gauge.

Current electrocars are much worse in this regard, but owners are enthusiastic about them even with their quite severe limitations.

[California98Civic]

Originally Posted by cRiPpLe_rOoStEr

I wouldn't feel so comfortable in a vehicle without any sort of genertor, be it an alternator or a motorcycle-type stator (that could also eventually replace both the alternator and the distributor). Nowadays it might be worth to consider a BAS-Hybrid retrofit.

I still have it. It is on a switch. If voltage runs low on a trip, I start running the alt a the most efficient moments, such as DFCO. I got at least six years out of my 40AHR deep cycle Odyssey battery.

[teoman]

Are you planning on a delete or a disable?

[Daschicken]

Originally Posted by sser2

I have read some of the posts about feasibility of alternator delete, but I am looking for a practical thing rather than a trial.

The idea is to reduce current consumption to 10 A and use a 100 ah Li-ion battery to allow a minimum 10 hour run time.
- 1A fuel pump
- 2A ECU, CDI ignition, relays and solenoids
- 1.5A electric water pump
- 3A LED lights including headlights

200 F super capacitor for engine starter. 80 A charger should charge battery in a bit over 1 hour.

You should try to avoid fast charging whenever possible to help battery life. If that 80A charger has a lower setting, use it.

[teoman]

If you have more supercap capacity (and assuming you are disabling the alternator, not deleting it) then you can up the output voltage a bit to get max regen.

An automotive electrician told me cars are good up to 16V.

[sser2]

Originally Posted by teoman

Are you planning on a delete or a disable?

Delete, together with water pump, pulleys, and belt.

[sser2]

Originally Posted by Daschicken

You should try to avoid fast charging whenever possible to help battery life. If that 80A charger has a lower setting, use it.

My battery is 50P4S assembled of 2ah 18650 cells. 80A is 0.8C for this battery, which is the manufacturer-recommended safe charging current. If cells are balanced and not defective, they stay cool at 1 - 1.5C. 80A charger is a modified SMPS computer server power supply. It weighs about 4 pounds and can be carried in a trunk for quick recharging on the road. A 10A charger in the garage is for overnight no-rush charging.

[sser2]

Originally Posted by teoman

If you have more supercap capacity (and assuming you are disabling the alternator, not deleting it) then you can up the output voltage a bit to get max regen.

An automotive electrician told me cars are good up to 16V.

In my experience, a stack of six 300F capacitors is enough for starting an engine three times the size of Metro's.

I am deleting alternator and water pump with their belt and pulleys. Regeneration would be a nice feature, but with 10 hours driving time on full battery under worst conditions, I can do without it.

System voltage is 16V at full charge (cells are charged only to 4.0V to prolong their life) and 12.8V at full discharge. Metro's ECU works fine at 16V, I tried it.

[cRiPpLe_rOoStEr]

Originally Posted by sser2

Delete, together with water pump, pulleys, and belt.

Would you also try an electric water pump? Or attempt something like the Ford Model T that didn't have a water pump at all?

[teoman]

You could add a solenoid valve somewhere on your cooling circuit. Then if necessary you can blow off some pressure to get instant cooling.

You will have to fill up with distilled water occasionally or condense the steam and use that.