Audiovox CCS-100 cruise control replacement (can't do FE tests) - Page 2 - Fuel Economy, Hypermiling, EcoModding News and Forum

MetroMPG · 08-29-2008, 10:35 PM

Update: Audiovox screwed up. I sent the unit in, and they sent me a letter telling me I had to include payment to get the repair, which I had done. They got it sorted out and are fixing it, but the downside was the delay meant I'm not going to get it back before going on holiday for a couple of weeks.

So, no more testing until late Sept.

MetroMPG · 09-24-2008, 09:27 AM

FYI, Audiovox sent me a complete replacement kit. I'll be re-installing it today.

wagonman76 · 09-24-2008, 01:35 PM

Hey thats cool, hope it ends up working well again.

MetroMPG · 09-24-2008, 08:31 PM

I took it out for a test drive this evening, and the replacement unit seems to be working just fine.

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Someone asked me for the cruise control buttons in a PM or somewhere earlier in this thread. If you still need them, send me another note. I've got an extra one now.

wagonman76 · 09-24-2008, 10:59 PM

Quote:

I took it out for a test drive this evening, and the replacement unit seems to be working just fine.

Very cool. Great to hear that you are back in business.

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Quote:

Someone asked me for the cruise control buttons in a PM or somewhere earlier in this thread. If you still need them, send me another note. I've got an extra one now.

Yep that was me, earlier in the thread, and I still could definitely use that button pod. I sent you an email. Thanks!

MetroMPG · 09-27-2008, 11:34 AM

So, anyone following the Kammback thread (http://ecomodder.com/forum/showthrea...sion-3518.html) knows the replacement cruise control quit working yesterday in the middle of ABA testing after less than an hour of use.

I had one more thought that I'll look at: I wonder if the problem could be a weak vacuum line between the "T" and the cruise unit. If the line is collapsing somewhere when the cruise actuator starts working, I wonder if it would shut down.

The tech guy on the Audiovox support line told me it required a minimum vacuum to work. I'm not sure if he meant the unit senses pressure and requires a minimum or it shuts off, or if he was just talking about a minimum needed for the diaphragm to physically pull in the throttle cable.

wagonman76 · 09-28-2008, 02:54 AM

Hmm, thats a good thought. Maybe the extra hose to hook it up isnt as good of quality as the factory hose on the engine, and could be collapsing. Maybe you could go from where you teed into the factory line with a really short piece of hose, and cut a really short piece for the cruise unit end too. Then connect the two with something rigid like a piece of brake line with the ends cut off.

I have replaced pieces of vacuum line before and used hose for hooking up air shocks, with good results. Ive also tried stuff that was more like washer fluid hose, and it wasnt worth a crap for vacuum use.

Formula413 · 10-02-2008, 12:04 AM

Just wondering, does this cruise control have the "cancel" feature? I.E. you can disengage it without turning it off or resetting the memory. It does not appear to in the pictures I found but I just wanted to double check.

MetroMPG · 02-28-2009, 09:33 AM

It cancels with the brake or the clutch. There's no actual "cancel" button on the interface.

MetroMPG · 02-28-2009, 09:45 AM

Got a question about installation emailed to me, figure I'll post here for posterity:

Quote:

i have a 95 chevy metro 3cyl 5spd...

i am in the process of installing one, audiovox cc100, and i need if you can provide me with some direction concerning installing the servo..i understand it must be hook to the pedal, inside the car..did you have to drill any holes to the firewall where the servo will be in the engine bay...

I connected to the gas pedal because the instruction manual specifically said the OEM throttle cable must have a minimum travel of a certain distance, and the Firefly didn't. You might be able to get away with it, but I didn't even try. Worst case, the cruise unit might attempt to actuate the cable past the OEM limit.

I mounted the cruise unit on the driver's side strut tower under the hood, with the actuator cable pointed down.

I didn't drill any holes in the firewall: I routed the actuator cable through the speedometer cable firewall grommet into the cabin.

I clamped a long bolt to the top of the accelerator pedal arm, ABOVE the pivot point. That created a lever, the length of which is enough to get me the minimum travel for the actuator cable.

The actuator cable comes through the firewall, turns 180 degrees in a generous arc that doesn't bind the cable. It's held in place by fashioning a bracket from the parts that came in the box.

So the actuator cable actually pulls the top of the "lever" toward the rear of the car to press the gas.