Audiovox CCS-100 cruise control replacement (can't do FE tests)

[MetroMPG]

Having posted all that, the replacement cruise control I got still doesn't work.

I need to replace the replacement before the summer so I can get back to doing "as controlled as possible" tests using my car.

[Formula413]

As to my question about CC cancel, it dawned on me that this would not be very difficult to add. All it takes is a momentary switch in the wire that goes to the switch on the brake pedal arm. Stepping on the brake pedal is the only "cancel" available on a CC without a cancel button. I plan to add one to my car.

[MetroMPG]

Called the company again today. They asked me to run through the same troubleshooting checklist for this second non-working cruise control unit.

I asked them if they kept records of return failure analysis - wanted to know if they could tell me what was wrong with my previous unit. They don't.

Anyway, I'll run this one through the gauntlet and probably end up getting a warranty replacement this time (since it's less than 1 year old).

[dcb]

Can't help myself here, sorry. But I'm sure an atmega with a vss tap and a mosfet or two could fix it too Add the injector tap and dial in the mpg you want (within reason)

[MetroMPG]

I'm sure it could be fixed/converted.... by someone smarter than me with ye olde electronics. :P

[bkeese]

Searching for info about the Audiovox ccs-100 and how to fix it, I came across this thread and it gave me the impetus to open mine up and see what was what. I thought I'd post my results here for posterity as an expression of gratitude to this thread.

My cruise control wasn't working. The lights on the controller all seemed OK, and when I went through the troubleshooting steps in the manual, everything checked out. The LED flashed when the unit was on with the van running and increased in speed with the speed of the engine. That was all good. Next I checked the vacuum. I pulled the hose off the actuator and heard the vacuum release. So that was fine too. Next I took the case of the actuator apart. First I removed the rectangular service cap and pulled the 9-wire connector free. Then I took the metal bracket off the case, then used a flat screwdriver to undo the four tabs that held the back part of the case on (the part that surrounds the circuit board). This revealed the solenoid valves as well as the entire circuit board. The valve unit just pulls out of the circuit board. With the valve unit out, I tested each of the solenoids by applying 12V DC from a generic wall-wart transformer. Two activated, the other did not. The one in the middle seemed to be stuck.

I pulled the center solenoid out of the valve unit (after removing the little rubber strip) to tinker with it. Well, long story short, the spring that holds the valve closed was too strong for the solenoid to overcome. The solenoid must have become weak for some reason. There is a little metal plug on the bottom of the solenoid that can be pried out with a small screwdriver. It holds the spring in. I shortened the spring by about 1/16 inch by cutting off the last loop or so with a pair of side cutters. Put it back together and retested it. It worked fine. Put the whole thing back together and took it for a test drive, and everything works fine now.

Don't know how long it will last, but it works for now. Hope this helps someone.

[MetroMPG]

bkeese: thanks very much for posting that info. It may help me when I finally get around to looking into this again.

Other new info I've learned since my 2nd unit failed (which I still haven't fixed/replaced):

- if the unit isn't receiving a high enough voltage, it won't work properly (one owner told me he fixed his by bypassing the brake cancel switch and wired power directly to the unit - with obvious safety implications). He did this after measuring the voltage at the unit and seeing there was a noticeable voltage drop when wired to the brake light circuit.

- the tech I spoke to told me the unit would work more reliably using a VSS signal instead of the coil signal (which is what I'm currently using)

[dmulc]

Thanks bkeese,
That's what was wrong with mine. The middle solenoid was stuck. I took that solenoid apart and sprayed it lightly with silicone. I also cut a little off the spring. (You wrote a very nice tutorial)
And it's working. It only took 1 hour.
You saved me $100 on a new one.
Thanks again.

[dmulc]

Originally Posted by dmulc

Thanks bkeese,
That's what was wrong with mine. The middle solenoid was stuck. I took that solenoid apart and sprayed it lightly with silicone. I also cut a little off the spring. (You wrote a very nice tutorial)
And it's working. It only took 1 hour.
You saved me $100 on a new one.
Thanks again.

Well, it only worked for 1 hour. The solenoid is still bad.