While the boat tail is still 'open' I'm taking advantage of that.
I clamped batter boards to the tail which project rearwards to define the outside dimensions of the stinger,as you'd do with a concrete foundation.
To carry the stinger inside the boat tail for the trip requires that the stinger be able to break down into 3-pcs which can be assembled at DARKO.
So far,I've got a box-truss fashioned which will be the center 1/3rd of the stinger.
It's cedar picket ripped in half,angle cut,glued,and screwed.I'm using Titebond Exterior glue and drywall screws.
The three sections will marry together to form the 41-inch stinger,using 1/4-20 carriage bolts and palm-nuts.
Aluminum flashing,screwed down with pan-heads will create the skin for each section; attaching as a unit to the boat tail,also with carriage bolts and palm-nuts.
After the stinger is 'proved' with no hitches,I'll close in the 49.5-inch boat tail.
At DARKO,I can attach the faux single wheel under the stinger and test as Spirit-II with a single-wheel trailer (ala BamZipPow's Dark Shadow).
Then yank the phony wheel,testing as Spirit-II with a long-tail.
Followed by dropping the stinger for Spirit-II with truncated boat-tail.
And lastly,dropping the boat-tail,for Spirit sans tail.
We'll have an opportunity to actually see what,if any,the extra length actually does to drag.
This will be the 1st time in 40-years or so that I'll get to experience this sort of thing.
PS,If I were to lose the truck bed and start from scratch,with a custom,boat-tailed box, I could shorten the rig by 54-inches and have basically the same Cd.
here's some pics
Rotten plywood is gone and 3-layers of glass go on where new fairings integrate onto aero shell
Cardboard and tape define the new shape and get 3-layers of glass
At the rear,with lofted surface I get the radii required for Morelli's fluid tail
Batter boards clamp on to define exterior limits of stinger
Center 1/3rd section box truss is created inside the batter boards