02-18-2012, 04:21 PM
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#11 (permalink)
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...beats walking...
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...where is #1 cylinder?
...is it all the way UP, ie: top-dead-center (TDC)?
...it's #1 cylinder @ TDC, then #1 timing chain/camshaft positioning, and distributor pointing to #1 sparkplug.
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02-18-2012, 10:45 PM
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#12 (permalink)
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Master EcoModder
Join Date: Jul 2009
Location: New York
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fuel and spark
fuel and spark
before you begin more advanced testing /
squirt some starter fluid into the throttle body ... does the engine start and run a few seconds and then stall ?
on the off chance that you has a DSO and know how to use it , this is the relationship of CMP cam position sensor (red Trace) and spark(green trace) during start , note the threshold of amplitude needed on the CMP voltage , you can measure this amplitude with a DVOM on AC volts scale
if you do not have a DSO , about 1 volt peak to peak when spark begins
your system does not have a CKP (blue trace)
if you have no CMP signal , you have no spark and no signal to Mr Fuel injector , no fuel , even if you do have fuel pressure in the fuel line
key on engine off
confirm the CEL is on
confirm you have 5 volts reference at MAP sensor
use T pins
like so
pierce not the wire or the insulation -
three wires on MAP sensor
1 has 5 volts
1 has between 5 volts and 0 volts
1 has 0 volts
with respect to battery negative ,
takes less time to test than to locate a wiring diagram to decide which wire should be what , just test all 3
if the above testing is all
"good"
you have screwed up your timing belt alignment - which is what i swag to be your problem
unless you were a complete zero and at the same time changed your oil and used 20w50 or 15w40
in which case the oil is the problem
elaboration can be provided if requested
Quote:
Originally Posted by Mr. Previa
Ok,
1992 Geo Metro 1.0, automatic
Today I cleaned the engine bay. Then, I replaced the cam seal, timing belt, distributor seal.
The geo will not start now. I am getting gas and fire. Do you think I got water some where or it is a timing issue?
On the timing issue - I was VERY careful not to mess it up. IF, I had one tooth off on the timing belt, shouldn't it still run? I noticed that the distributor will only go in one way and I am pretty sure that I installed it correctly.
Any ideas? Any and all help would be greatly appreciated!
Thank you.
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02-19-2012, 10:06 AM
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#13 (permalink)
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ECOModder
Join Date: Dec 2011
Location: TN
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Starting fluid does not do anything. I can see the injector firing. I have verified several times that I have spark. I do not have a DSO.
__________________
3585 pounds of twisted steel.
Recreational | Active | Vehicle | 4x4
...scratch that... AWD
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02-19-2012, 11:17 AM
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#14 (permalink)
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ECOModder
Join Date: Dec 2011
Location: TN
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This morning the Geo tried to hit a lick. The plugs were very wet and did smell like gas. Could be gas/water mix? Ran compression tests. 120 on all. buttoned back up and tried it again. Tried to hit a lick again. I think there is too much gas/water in there some where.
__________________
3585 pounds of twisted steel.
Recreational | Active | Vehicle | 4x4
...scratch that... AWD
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02-19-2012, 10:40 PM
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#15 (permalink)
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Master EcoModder
Join Date: Jul 2009
Location: New York
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120 psi is too low
with a fully charged battery
with all 3 spark plugs removed at wide open throttle
120 psi compression is too low ,
retry under conditions described above
should be 160 psi
minimum
if compression remains low on all three after the test is performed correctly ,
suspect timing belt misalignment
since this is affect all cylinders
looking more like timing belt misalignment OR
incorrect engine oil .
key on engine off
does the CEL light up ? check engine light . if no Mr computer is not waking up . engine will never start , conform by testing 5 volt reference at
MAP sensor , see above post
if you do not have a DVOM , go buy one , yesterday .
with a fully charged battery
disconnect injector , go to clear flood , Wide Open throttle , operate starter until liquid clears from combustion chamber
then
without reconnecting injector
spray starter fluid into open throttle body .
if the engine starts then stall as starter fluid is used up , fuel quality is suspect .
what oil is in the engine ? it matters .
current OEM specification is
DEXOS1
search in google or whatever to see what that means
a better choice
is
a synthetic 5w30 or 0w30 or 0w40
with
ACEA A3 B3 A3 B4 specification
any other specification oil (than the choices above) should never be used in any Geo Metro
oils without ACEA specification and with API and ILSAC specification can never be used in any Geo Metro under any circumstances
Quote:
Originally Posted by Mr. Previa
This morning the Geo tried to hit a lick. The plugs were very wet and did smell like gas. Could be gas/water mix? Ran compression tests. 120 on all. buttoned back up and tried it again. Tried to hit a lick again. I think there is too much gas/water in there some where.
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02-20-2012, 12:26 PM
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#16 (permalink)
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Master EcoModder
Join Date: Dec 2011
Location: Boise Idaho
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one tooth off won't usually fire unless you get the ignition timing "correct".
move the distributor back and forth - put it full advanced and see if it will fire. then full retarded.
also, checking the obvious, do you have the spark plug wires on correctly?
I've been known to pull number one spark plug, have a buddy bump the motor with the starter while you hold a finger or 3/8 extension OVER the spark plug hole. When you hit hte compression stroke, it will blow your finger off the hole.
Then pop the distributor cap off, and verify the rotor is pointing at the spark plug wire it should be.
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02-20-2012, 03:35 PM
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#17 (permalink)
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Master EcoModder
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#1 cylinder is passenger side.
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02-20-2012, 05:19 PM
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#18 (permalink)
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ECOModder
Join Date: Dec 2011
Location: TN
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Problem Solved
Ok folks...
*GULP* (that was my pride)
I was not reading the timing correctly. At a closer inspection of the crank pulley, I noticed that there where 2 white marks. So, when I was using the timing light, it only appeared to be correct.
I took the timing cover back off and the timing was off by a few notches. I adjusted them to the correct positions and zoned in with the timing light.
Lesson learned.
I want to sincerely thank everyone for all the suggestions and help that was given. Thank you all for your support.
I have to give props and many thanks to Tracer from justanswer.com. He is very knowledgable and was able to help solve my problem even though I kept telling him the timing was correct...
__________________
3585 pounds of twisted steel.
Recreational | Active | Vehicle | 4x4
...scratch that... AWD
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02-20-2012, 07:02 PM
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#19 (permalink)
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Cyborg ECU
Join Date: Mar 2011
Location: Coastal Southern California
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mr. Previa
Ok folks...
*GULP* (that was my pride)
I was not reading the timing correctly. At a closer inspection of the crank pulley, I noticed that there where 2 white marks. So, when I was using the timing light, it only appeared to be correct.
I took the timing cover back off and the timing was off by a few notches. I adjusted them to the correct positions and zoned in with the timing light.
Lesson learned.
I want to sincerely thank everyone for all the suggestions and help that was given. Thank you all for your support.
I have to give props and many thanks to Tracer from justanswer.com. He is very knowledgable and was able to help solve my problem even though I kept telling him the timing was correct...
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Seemed like it had to be a simple human error. I'm glad you found it. I'm glad you got a lot of support. Cheers!
__________________
See my car's mod & maintenance thread and my electric bicycle's thread for ongoing projects. I will rebuild Black and Green over decades as parts die, until it becomes a different car of roughly the same shape and color. My minimum fuel economy goal is 55 mpg while averaging posted speed limits. I generally top 60 mpg. See also my Honda manual transmission specs thread.
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02-21-2012, 08:56 PM
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#20 (permalink)
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Master EcoModder
Join Date: Dec 2011
Location: Boise Idaho
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glad you got it figured out!!!!
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