04-17-2008, 10:35 PM
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#11 (permalink)
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Batman Junior
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Shifting technique notwithstanding (I'm surprised you assume all cars will behave the same way yours will, Frank), it could be a case of the alternator working harder on start-up due to 12v drain during the coasting portion. If the belt's old or a little loose, it may squeal under those conditions but not in "normal" use.
Regardless, not being sure whether its tire squeal or belt squeal would have me wondering whether this technique may be outside your comfort zone.
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04-18-2008, 12:13 PM
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#12 (permalink)
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EV OR DIESEL
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Golf has totally different clutch grab properties launching vs starting. I have no Idea why.
Launching there is a WIDE range of Slip, Starting (engine) there is about 1/4" of slip, and if you try and release the clutch linearly without slowing at that point you will chirp the tires. lol
Check your belt. if you want to be totally ghetto you can put some valve grinding compound on it, but that will wear it (and your pulley) out quickly. <- Used car salesmen trick.
if your are not comfortable with this, put it on the shelf until you feel that you are ready to try again.
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04-18-2008, 06:26 PM
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#13 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by trebuchet03
And 200ms is starting to get slow for something like this....
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Really? When I shift, I noticed I deliberately slow down when I get to the clutches engagement point, IME the clutch engaging over 500ms seems correct, at least for bump starts. 100-200ms would be popping it for me, at least in terms of releasing it. That being said, one thing that irks me is the difference in engaging a hydraulic versus a cable actuated clutch, and I could see a hydraulic clutch cutting down on the engagement time since IME it does.
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04-18-2008, 06:55 PM
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#14 (permalink)
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Depends on the Day
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dremd
Golf has totally different clutch grab properties launching vs starting. I have no Idea why.
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I recall driving a mid-90's Jetta (fairly new). I was driving a '96 Civic 5-speed at the time with a distinct engagement point. The advice of the VW owner was to almost dump the clutch to eliminate slip. It was odd, but it worked.
Same with a new '03 Golf TDi I test drove. Fast clutch pedal travel for seamless engagement.
Is yours the same, comparatively?
RH77
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05-19-2008, 09:32 PM
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#15 (permalink)
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Batman Junior
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I still find it's smoother to clutch start in a higher gear and then shift down to the "driving" gear. Obviously we have different interpretations of "smooth".
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05-20-2008, 12:47 AM
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#16 (permalink)
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Exactly how do you double clutch a stopped engine? The only way to RPM match to zero is to hold the clutch in for a few seconds before shifting and let it spin down.
Anyway, here's what I do to bump start. If I'm going 20mph or above, I put it in 5th, set my throttle to where I think RPMs should be in 5th and let out the clutch quickly but smoothly. I never pop it, it's hard on pretty much everything under the hood.
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05-21-2008, 06:37 PM
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#17 (permalink)
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EcoModding Lurker
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Do you guys ever experiance booster runout? With the engine off and there possible being heavy traffic, aren't you afraid you'll run outta vaccum on your booster? This the whole reason hybrids need a special braking system, so that you have boosted pressure if you need it.
Maybe it is common practice not to cut the engine in heavy traffic?
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05-21-2008, 09:27 PM
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#18 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JohnnyGrey
Exactly how do you double clutch a stopped engine? The only way to RPM match to zero is to hold the clutch in for a few seconds before shifting and let it spin down.
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The 'double clutching' here was not in reference to shifting gears. It was referring to bump starting by letting out the clutch gently just till the engine turns over and starts and then pushing the clutch back in quickly so as not to force the motor to spin up to a high RPM in a few miliseconds.
In many vehicles, simply letting the clutch out all the way to start the motor, all in one move, will cause a jerk and rebound situation that I find most unsettling.
Last edited by Gregte; 05-21-2008 at 09:33 PM..
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06-17-2008, 06:18 AM
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#19 (permalink)
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Hi AnDoireman.
I'm a fitter and whenever i hear a belt squealing, it's probably loose. If its almost worn out and its 03:00 i just horse some belt spray in there. Works a treat!
Otherwise, like what was said above, dont dump the clutch and bump start in 4th or 5th.
By the way, welcome! I'm from Slane, Co.Meath.
ollie
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06-17-2008, 08:20 AM
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#20 (permalink)
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EcoModding Lurker
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Hello vtec-e. I haven't been on the site for a while, and coming back yesterday or so, noticed yourself actually, and was reading about your solar panel. Quite interesting, but was a bit dissapointed to see some comments that it might not be that helpful. The belt issue - I had of course assumed it was a belt squealing. I know the difference in sound, but the reason I had mentioned the tyres was because of the harsh momentum loss when almost dropping the clutch, and because I had recently checked my belts, and found them to be on tight. I also couldn't see why that would make the belts squeal. Do you know of any Irish or European sites similar to this one? No harm to this site, as there are loads of intelligent people who know their stuff on here from the looks of things, but of course, a good proportion of the information is US-Centric, and it would be nice to be able to talk to more local people about fuel use, where our roads, cars and all that are different.
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