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Old 08-28-2008, 01:30 AM   #491 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by johnmyster View Post
They guy on here with the beetle could even use compressed air from his spare tire - an old VW joke...
That's a great idea! But what if I get a flat tire, after a lot of stop and go traffic! oh no!

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Old 08-28-2008, 03:37 AM   #492 (permalink)
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Black dress socks with Crocs.

You might be an ecomodder if you wear black socks with crocs
Keep the great info coming Ben. I've been anxiously waiting for new posts from you and Paul.
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Old 08-28-2008, 04:21 AM   #493 (permalink)
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You might be an ecomodder if you wear black socks with crocs
Keep the great info coming Ben. I've been anxiously waiting for new posts from you and Paul.
What are you doing up at this hour?!! Go to bed!
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Old 08-28-2008, 04:31 AM   #494 (permalink)
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What are you doing up at this hour?!! Go to bed!
Hey Paul...I should be asking YOU that question!
I'm in Iraq, so it's 1130am thursday morning here.
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Old 08-28-2008, 09:06 AM   #495 (permalink)
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found this browsing craigslist today: 94 suzuki swift
If anyone is interested.
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Old 08-28-2008, 10:07 AM   #496 (permalink)
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I just watched your video. Inginuity points - 10. McGuyver points - 10. Safety - 0.

Please just consider putting a big M/C on an adapter plate in place of your whole booster. You'll save weight and you won't risk killing yourself. It will end up being a lot cheaper than your pump/pvc and it won't cost you any electricity to run it.
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Old 08-28-2008, 10:22 AM   #497 (permalink)
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Just to note,

The coffee can power brakes was just an experiment. I have not, nor am I planning on driving the car around with that setup.

I only rolled about 10 feet on my driveway playing around testing it. It does give more braking action then when there was no vacuum hooked up.

Could somebody give me more information on what it would take to swap out the brake booster for Manual Brakes, or have an adapter plate? I don't quite get it.
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Old 08-28-2008, 10:23 AM   #498 (permalink)
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Check valves on a normal car are there because the engine isn't ALWAYS a vacuum source. Thus, that big vacuum resivoir can store up enough vacuum for one or two pulses even when you're drag racing. Not to mention, it keeps vacuum stored for use by climate control, egr, purge canister, and cruise control operations on applicable vehicles.

I don't think a check valve will help you unless you plan on cycling your pump.

If you hook your fishtank pump up to your vacuum gauge directly, how much does it measure? IE., if we take the leaky pump out of the equation?

20 inches of vacuum is only about -10psi. If Schultz manages to backpressure a booster, I'm sure he can figure out how to have +10 psi on it in a jiffy...

Perhaps a pump from a vehicle that had air brakes could be belt driven by your motor shaft and give you some help. Or perhaps you could run an a/c compressor instead and activate the clutch with your brakelights. Thus, you'd have regenerative braking braking assist! Whoa, think about that three times fast!

(A/C compressors count on oil in the system, so they wouldn't last forever without it. However, pick a common model like an GM R-4 or A-6 and you can find them all over the place.)
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Last edited by johnmyster; 08-28-2008 at 10:29 AM..
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Old 08-28-2008, 10:30 AM   #499 (permalink)
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toyobug, whataryadoin up at this hour? Oh, wait. It's only 4pm your time.

Ben;
I LOVE the McGuyverishness. I concur that a PVC tube/endcaps reservoir would be better. Could you gang multiple pumps together?
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Old 08-28-2008, 10:31 AM   #500 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bennelson View Post
Just to note,

The coffee can power brakes was just an experiment. I have not, nor am I planning on driving the car around with that setup.

I only rolled about 10 feet on my driveway playing around testing it. It does give more braking action then when there was no vacuum hooked up.

Could somebody give me more information on what it would take to swap out the brake booster for Manual Brakes, or have an adapter plate? I don't quite get it.
You've got two options.

1) Find a master cylinder with a smaller piston bore. That'll give you more line pressure with less pedal effort. I suggest racing supply sources to find something like this. Summit racing shows as small as 3/4".

Wilwood 260-1304 - Wilwood Aluminum Master Cylinders - summitracing.com

2) Move the pedal pivot point down, closer to the master cylinder. Thus, giving the pedal more leverage on the cylinder piston.

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Last edited by johnmyster; 08-28-2008 at 10:36 AM..
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