11-27-2010, 04:13 AM
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#11 (permalink)
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Master EcoModder
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51MPGus without P&G, because its a diesel I don't do EOC!
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good things come to those who wait, sh*t turns up pretty much instantly
twitter.com/bertchalmers
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Today
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11-27-2010, 09:12 AM
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#12 (permalink)
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The PRC.
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Rob - why not with a Diesel ?
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[I]So long and thanks for all the fish.[/I]
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11-29-2010, 08:47 AM
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#13 (permalink)
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Master EcoModder
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Arragonis
Rob - why not with a Diesel ?
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IIRC, too much of a love of the PULSE...
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11-30-2010, 04:24 PM
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#14 (permalink)
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EcoModding Apprentice
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If I can get straight to the highway and drive 50 ish mph I could probably get 50-55 mpg.
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And that's without a Scangauge o.O
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11-30-2010, 04:41 PM
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#15 (permalink)
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Master EcoModder
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I started out with an US EPA rated car that is estimated to get 22 city, 28 highway, 24 combined. I was averaging 27-28mpg winter, 29-30mpg summer. When I started hypermiling I managed 32-34mpg. As I brought in more P&G that came up to 36-38mpg, then winter came. Now I should be getting the worst mileage of the year, but I've managed to hold it around 36-38mpg because I'm going EOC at every safe opportunity. I suspect if it was summer I'd be pushing 42-43mpg with EOC P&G. My last tank was 39.3mpg.
IMHO, just good hypermiling technique will buy you a 15-20% improvement over EPA highway numbers. Simply by anticipating stops, avoiding unnecessary braking, coasting when practical, using DFCO on longer, steeper descents, and driving with a light foot near the speed limit. Adding in some pulse and glide with the engine on will give you another 10% and shutting the engine off on your glides and at stop lights will gain another 10%.
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11-30-2010, 05:20 PM
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#16 (permalink)
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Basjoos Wannabe
Join Date: Apr 2009
Location: Arkansas
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Quote:
Originally Posted by euromodder
If {the clutch is} worn and slipping, it will affect your mileage.
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+1
Considering you're fortunate enough to have a manual, why not use EOC? Restarts would be easy as pie if you use bump starting, and adding a manual kill switch instead of having to use the key would make it even easier.
What tire pressure do you run? Many folks here run at 50 psi (3.4 bar)
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RIP Maxima 1997-2012
Quote:
Originally Posted by jamesqf
I think you missed the point I was trying to make, which is that it's not rational to do either speed or fuel economy mods for economic reasons. You do it as a form of recreation, for the fun and for the challenge.
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11-30-2010, 06:45 PM
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#17 (permalink)
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EcoModding Lurker
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ShadeTreeMech
+1
Considering you're fortunate enough to have a manual, why not use EOC? Restarts would be easy as pie if you use bump starting, and adding a manual kill switch instead of having to use the key would make it even easier.
What tire pressure do you run? Many folks here run at 50 psi (3.4 bar)
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I'm at 40 or 42 psi, doing 44 or 46psi in a couple days time, with my next fill.
New clutch is being organised so once that is on and a few aero tweaks done, I'll then see how far EOC gets me.
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11-30-2010, 11:02 PM
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#18 (permalink)
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EcoModding Lurker
Join Date: Nov 2010
Location: Illinois
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Quote:
Originally Posted by endurance
I started out with an US EPA rated car that is estimated to get 22 city, 28 highway, 24 combined. I was averaging 27-28mpg winter, 29-30mpg summer. When I started hypermiling I managed 32-34mpg. As I brought in more P&G that came up to 36-38mpg, then winter came. Now I should be getting the worst mileage of the year, but I've managed to hold it around 36-38mpg because I'm going EOC at every safe opportunity. I suspect if it was summer I'd be pushing 42-43mpg with EOC P&G. My last tank was 39.3mpg.
IMHO, just good hypermiling technique will buy you a 15-20% improvement over EPA highway numbers. Simply by anticipating stops, avoiding unnecessary braking, coasting when practical, using DFCO on longer, steeper descents, and driving with a light foot near the speed limit. Adding in some pulse and glide with the engine on will give you another 10% and shutting the engine off on your glides and at stop lights will gain another 10%.
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Completely agree. From reading threads here and on CleanMPG by some folks posting stellar numbers, driving style is by far the single biggest thing you can do to raise that post-EPA percentage. In my case, I'm hitting 26-39% above (last two tanks were 36.7 and 40.4, EPA combined is 29) with almost no mods. I removed a few carpets and some plastic from the under panels and made a clear tape grille block. Besides that, everything else has come from driving with FE in mind. I don't have instrumentation yet, so my feedback is tank to tank (although I'm comparing odometer numbers and fuel needle positions to my eventual tank MPGs to see if I can get more intermittent feedback from gauge position), and it's already clearly making a difference. That said, my next tank will be revealing, since I went back to using E10 gas for the tank and have also been using P&G in the city consistently for the first time. I'm curious to see what effects the temperature drop, P&G, and E10 sum to.
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12-01-2010, 01:18 AM
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#19 (permalink)
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EcoModding Apprentice
Join Date: Nov 2008
Location: Safety Harbor, FL
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Driving style is definitely the biggest change you can make, though heavy modding like the aerocivic are almost as good. Combine both and you can probably get ridiculously higher numbers like 400% EPA
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And that's without a Scangauge o.O
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12-01-2010, 01:23 AM
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#20 (permalink)
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EcoModding Apprentice
Join Date: Nov 2008
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Quote:
Originally Posted by abently
I'm at 40 or 42 psi, doing 44 or 46psi in a couple days time, with my next fill.
New clutch is being organised so once that is on and a few aero tweaks done, I'll then see how far EOC gets me.
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I'm at 60ish psi now. Of course, I have bridgestone ecopia ep-100s, and bridgestone tires seem to be relatively high quality. Unless your tire is damaged you shouldn't have problems until well over 100 psi.
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And that's without a Scangauge o.O
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