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Old 09-02-2014, 01:08 AM   #241 (permalink)
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Checking out the Toy-Tote and their air shock configuration...seems that they are using the Gabriel HiJackers 49000 series air shocks in single and dual shock setups. Trying to find out what the model number of the shocks are from Toy-tote and what load factors they used. Now I'm gonna have to see if I can hook up two shocks (since I will have to buy them in pairs) and what advantages it will bring to the table.




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Old 09-02-2014, 04:33 PM   #242 (permalink)
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So it pivots on that cad-plated bolt next to the empty hole? It looks like the air line goes to a normal nut and bolt. Is that a remote air fitting?
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Old 09-02-2014, 11:54 PM   #243 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by freebeard View Post
So it pivots on that cad-plated bolt next to the empty hole? It looks like the air line goes to a normal nut and bolt. Is that a remote air fitting?
As far as I can tell, the Toy-Tote's design is set to pivot on the bolt in one direction (up only) and is restricted from pivoting down with the stop. I wonder how much noise that system generates when it slams up against the stop since there isn't anything there to absorb the impact.

The Gabriel Hijackers have an air fitting on the shocks themselves but it's just an open hole. It requires a Shrader valve in a remote location connected with a small poly line to the shock in order fer the shock to retain the inflated air.

I haven't personally seen their Toy-Tote with the air shock setup in action but I would love to see how well it dampens (if any) any road oscillations transmitted to the tow vehicle at speed. I believe that my direction for dampening the trailer at the hitch should minimize the amount of oscillations tremendously.
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Old 09-03-2014, 12:41 AM   #244 (permalink)
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I had a laugh at their bump stop. That's just going to bend.

I'd go with a T in the poly line and one Shrader valve.
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Old 09-20-2014, 04:41 PM   #245 (permalink)
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Just dropped off the trailer to git the hitch fixed properly and weld on the tongue for the air shock. Should git it back in about a week. I'll still have to figure out if I should go with a single or dual shock setup and have the shock tabs mounted fer that setup. Can't wait to see how much dampening this setup will provide...if any.
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Old 09-24-2014, 07:11 PM   #246 (permalink)
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Just got my trailer back and here's the improved hitch ($120 worth).


Time to hunt down some shock mounting solutions to git welded up in place and secured. I guess I can have the bottom shock tabs welded with enough clearance to allow fer both single and dual shock mounting options.

On the way back from the welder, I did notice one pickup driver behind me pressing his face up against his windshield to git a better look at the trailer.
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Old 10-21-2014, 03:10 PM   #247 (permalink)
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A few holes drilled and a quick mock up with dual shocks (old gas shocks) on the trailer hitch...




I'll probably just try one shock in the build and see how it goes. I have a lot of bracing reinforcement to build behind the bulkhead so the dampening doesn't tear the trailer box apart.
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Old 10-22-2014, 08:18 AM   #248 (permalink)
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Looking good! I am assuming the PVC was just for mockup and will be replaced with a bolt and some washers.

It is hard to tell from the pictures, but how close is the shock mount on the hitch side (not trailer side) to the pivot point? The further the shock is from the pivot point (in the front/back direction) the more the shocks will travel with respect to the angle. If the mount is close to the pivot from a front/back perspective, you may want to move it closer to where the hitch mounts. I would hate to see all that work to not have the shocks travel enough to provide adequate damping.

Also, you will probably want to make sure that at the normal resting position on flat ground the shock is roughly in the middle of it's travel. That way the shocks won't over extend/compress if you drive over a sharp change in slope on the road.
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Old 10-22-2014, 10:20 AM   #249 (permalink)
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Quote:
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Also, you will probably want to make sure that at the normal resting position on flat ground the shock is roughly in the middle of it's travel. That way the shocks won't over extend/compress if you drive over a sharp change in slope on the road.
How do you compress the shock to it's midpoint so you can attach it to your vehicle?
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Old 10-22-2014, 10:59 AM   #250 (permalink)
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How do you compress the shock to it's midpoint so you can attach it to your vehicle?
It should be fairly easy to compress by hand if you do it before you fill the air shock with air.

For mock-up with old gas charged shocks, drill a hole if they are already junk and let the gas pressure out.

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