Body Work - Plugging Trim Holes

[kach22i]

I have a 1977 Porsche 911 targa that about 6 years ago I used that tootsie roll like steel stick and JB Weld to plug up some holes in the rear aluminum bumper.

Holes varied in size from 1/4" on small trim to 1/2" for bumperette posts.

Car has sat for the last 5 years, getting it on the road soon after doing a lot of brake related things.

The heat the air-cooled rear engine gives off perhaps makes this situation unique.

Overall I say the epoxy method works but is less than perfect. I can no longer tell where the holes were but it's just a gray primer on now, distortions may show up on a finish coat.

I have other modifications I want to do to the bumper, much more ambitious, so I have been looking at products specifically made for aluminum.

They cost about 10x's more but cheaper than welding.

Has anyone worked with something like the below before?

To what end?

Devcon 10610 Aluminum Putty 1 lb.

Hy-Poxy Systems, Inc.

I want to work with the bumper on the car, hence I'm shy about welding. Welding/brazing is a skill set and tool set I lack plus I'm on a budget. This is NOT a rust removal project or sheet metal project.

Looking for cold solutions better than bondo because future project will require strength, sticking power and act as small gap filler.

Must be heat resistant, the two products listed have HVAC and engine applications listed.

[freebeard]

No experience with those epoxy solutions.

Why not remove the bumper?

I was at a swap meet at the Portland Stockyards decades ago, where I saw a demonstration of aluminum welding (with a product I don't recall whether it was a paste or a rod). He was using a torch (w/o Oxygen). I suspect a heat lamp on the bumper and a butane lighter/torch could be enough.

Here's a potential product:

Originally Posted by DDG

Amazon.com: Aluminum Soldering Paste Welding Metal Jewelry ...
https://www.amazon.com/Aluminum-Sold.../dp/B000RB3ZCC
This is a new tube of aluminum solder paste A great new method for soldering aluminum This paste melts at only 395 degreesF far below the melting point of aluminum or any other metal The tube contains 7.1 grams Related products from Our Brands Page 1 of 1 Page 1 of 1.

[kach22i]

Thanks Freebeard, I kind of recall seeing something like that before.

I'm just feeling out my options and alternatives and you gave me a new one.

[freebeard]

I don't know why but I watched this:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=fKIKsDfRAcs

[freebeard]

kach22i -- I'm now operating on the theory there is an AI bot steering the attention of the lurkers to threads that deserve a second look. This prolly won't stay up long.

Originally Posted by bearya11 Today, 08:13 PM

When he saw the 1000 unfriendly looking dogs staring back at him, he growled at them and was horrified to see 1000 little dogs growling back at him. As he left, he thought to himself, "That is a horrible place, and I will never go back there again."

__________________
Sorry, new users are not permitted to post links in their signatures.

So, how's it going with that Porsche?

[Piotrsko]

When I was rebuilding my Pacer airplane, I bought a HENROB/Dillon pistol oxy acetylene that would weld aluminum foil with the proper flux. I watched the salesman weld two sheets during the demo. The torch is probably no longer available but I still have the flux which is al-braze. There's also low temp aluminum braze rods at harbor fright which probably work with MAPP gas torches since aluminum melts about 1300f

[cRiPpLe_rOoStEr]

Originally Posted by kach22i

Has anyone worked with something like the below before?

To what end?

I didn't even know those products existed.

Devcon 10610 Aluminum Putty 1 lb.

Comparing specs on both products, this one seems to be better suited to your needs.

[aerohead]

Originally Posted by kach22i

I have a 1977 Porsche 911 targa that about 6 years ago I used that tootsie roll like steel stick and JB Weld to plug up some holes in the rear aluminum bumper.

Holes varied in size from 1/4" on small trim to 1/2" for bumperette posts.

Car has sat for the last 5 years, getting it on the road soon after doing a lot of brake related things.

The heat the air-cooled rear engine gives off perhaps makes this situation unique.

Overall I say the epoxy method works but is less than perfect. I can no longer tell where the holes were but it's just a gray primer on now, distortions may show up on a finish coat.

I have other modifications I want to do to the bumper, much more ambitious, so I have been looking at products specifically made for aluminum.

They cost about 10x's more but cheaper than welding.

Has anyone worked with something like the below before?

To what end?

Devcon 10610 Aluminum Putty 1 lb.

Hy-Poxy Systems, Inc.

I want to work with the bumper on the car, hence I'm shy about welding. Welding/brazing is a skill set and tool set I lack plus I'm on a budget. This is NOT a rust removal project or sheet metal project.

Looking for cold solutions better than bondo because future project will require strength, sticking power and act as small gap filler.

Must be heat resistant, the two products listed have HVAC and engine applications listed.

I repaired a thrown-connecting-rod hole in the block of a 1961 Rambler American flathead-6, with a sheet of cured fiberglass, attached with JB-WELD, and drove for 1-1/2 years before selling, when I went overseas.
Like Astronaut Mark Whatney's duct tape, 'fiberglass and epoxy are magic, and should be worshipped.'

[cRiPpLe_rOoStEr]

Originally Posted by aerohead

fiberglass and epoxy are magic, and should be worshipped

Of course. Even though most people nowadays see it as a half-assed approach, I'm sure many had their lives saved by fiberglass and epoxy somehow...