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Old 09-29-2012, 11:29 PM   #41 (permalink)
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I left my alt belt connected, so I can run longer distances than what my two batteries can handle on a single charge. Generally the alt's output cable is NOT connected but I can switch it back in if needed for a long trip.

I can clearly feel the increased available power due to reduced load on the engine because it's not trying to charge a battery. MPG results definitely show the gains.

Like MetroMPG, I think the aero inefficiencies of the large panel have offset the gains from not running the alternator.

As for battery weight - that depends, in my ever-so-humble opinion. I don't consider weight to be a great evil. It requires more energy to accelerate the car to a given speed, but the car will coast longer on that kinetic energy. If you have to brake of course, you lose more energy than a lightweight car. And if you don't coast efficiently, you don't get the full benefit of that stored kinetic energy either.

I believe California98Civic's battery charging data are from the Odyssey battery people. I researched that brand too, in planning my project. Their batteries seem to run about .5V above the usual lead acid and so require a bit higher charge voltage. Maybe they also need higher charging amperage. Odyssey claims 99.99% pure lead, if I remember correctly, and a higher purity (or concentration??) of acid, which presumably are behind their higher voltage and overall upgraded performance. My own chargers are 10A units that run about 3.5-4.5 hours most nights. So far, so good. First battery was installed March 2012, 2nd battery in early Aug. 2012.

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Last edited by brucepick; 09-29-2012 at 11:35 PM..
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Old 10-01-2012, 02:48 PM   #42 (permalink)
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Very nice. I still have a ways to go with my car. I am thinking about a dash solar panel or two if I do the alternator delete but I am not sure if it will be as effective as the panel on the roof especially for long distance driving.
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Old 10-01-2012, 06:54 PM   #43 (permalink)
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Maybe you can delete teh solar panel. Plug in your battery and grid charge it til its goo and full meaning all cells are bubbling. Then take it for a drive. Charge it daily for 12 runs to give it a good break in as lead acid batteries take a while to build up and if you are running too low, flip the alt switch.

Take the panel, test it to make sure its delivering the 10 amps or so. Maybe place it on top of your car during the day and tuck it inside while you drive?

I used a 1 watt panel on the dash of my Suzuki to keep the battery from dying as its not my daily driver. I plan on installing a panel on the hood, putting in a group 24 deep cycle battery and katz 800 watt water heater for this winter.
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Old 10-01-2012, 08:42 PM   #44 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by brucepick View Post
I don't consider weight to be a great evil.
Nor do I.
Weight is a factor but not one that I lose any sleep over.
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Old 10-08-2012, 10:52 PM   #45 (permalink)
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I left the wires in place to test using the battery without a solar panel to see if I can get some decent gains. However, for now, I am concentrating on getting my mpg up and stable so the results can be more conclusive. The A07-G02 ecu from England recently arrived and MPG testing seems to show a pretty large increase.
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Old 10-09-2012, 11:18 AM   #46 (permalink)
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Is the A07-G02 ecu plug and play, just plug it in and go?
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Old 10-12-2012, 08:53 AM   #47 (permalink)
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What drugs are you guys taking?--Weight is not your friend

How much does all your modifications weigh? The Battery pack, battery box, solar panel, charge controller, etc.

Extra weight increases rolling resistance which is the dominant power loss at speeds below ~45 mph. If you add 100 lbs to a 2500 lb vehicle, the power loss goes up 4% at all speeds. Add 200 lbs and the loss increases 8%. How do you think that affects fuel consumption? i'd say directly.

And lead acid is outdated technology in both weight and cost.

How about using light weight prismatic LiFePO4 lithium cells to build your battery? Four 100 AHr cells at 7 lbs each fill a volume of 12 x 6 x 10" and would give you ten hours of driving with a 10 amp draw, and 600 cranking amps, plus the voltage doesn't sag like lead acid does. No sulfation or venting issues and they would last for 10 years. i've tested them in the lab at high discharge rates and that is a true 1 hr rating too, not the C/20 used for lead acid.

Plus if you look at the cost it is an even wash--much smaller capacity lithium cells can be used to create the 12 volt battery with an equivalent capacity and cranking rating as the lead acid for the same price as the lead acid but with huge weight savings. And weight is not your friend...
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Old 10-12-2012, 01:25 PM   #48 (permalink)
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Have you removed the sound deadening material in the hatch?
Warm air intake?
VAFC or ECU tunnning?

all of these will net you the most MPG's for your VX
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Old 10-20-2012, 02:13 AM   #49 (permalink)
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VXmpgRacer: how on earth did you ever hear about a A07-G02 from Britain? What year is it from? Please do tell how that's going, what's slightly different, etc. Have sources for these? Very intrigued. Nice work on the car, by the way.

mugen: VAFC? Also, ever have detonation issues, or excessively lean burning symptoms with warm air intake?

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Old 10-20-2012, 09:59 AM   #50 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by VxonFumes View Post
ever have detonation issues, or excessively lean burning symptoms with warm air intake?
I have run a WAI through two summers and a slight 2* ignition timing advance, have seen IATs at 140* occasionally, and have had no excessive lean mixture problems. The ECU compensates. But the WAI reduces pumping losses by requiring the throttle to be open further to achieve the same power.

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alternator delete, high mpg car, honda civic vx 5-wire, solar car

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