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Old 07-18-2009, 04:56 AM   #11 (permalink)
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WOW 250 range thats just nuts!!!!

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Old 07-18-2009, 05:27 PM   #12 (permalink)
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250 miles is do-able, but...

" WOW 250 range thats just nuts!!!!"

Naaah. 250 is do-able. You just absolutely have to have a small truck to haul the money to buy the battery pack.



Oh yeah, and a highly engineered strong/stiff/light frame. And an unbelievably low drag coefficient, and really small frontal area, and really low rolling resistance tires, and a really efficient drive train, and some other stuff I'm forgetting.

Can't wait to see it.

Don't forget, it's very easy to spend $30K or more and end up with a fine general motors or chrysler or ford product that gets 21 mpg or less. So spending 25K on a good battery pack in a slick design is not as crazy as it first sounds.

Plus, your home brew vehicle will not be designed so it's intentionally hard to work on, and wears out on purpose.

Please carry on.

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Old 07-19-2009, 05:57 PM   #13 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by solarguy View Post
Oh yeah, and a highly engineered strong/stiff/light frame. And an unbelievably low drag coefficient, and really small frontal area, and really low rolling resistance tires, and a really efficient drive train, and some other stuff I'm forgetting.

Can't wait to see it.

Don't forget, it's very easy to spend $30K or more and end up with a fine general motors or chrysler or ford product that gets 21 mpg or less. So spending 25K on a good battery pack in a slick design is not as crazy as it first sounds.

Plus, your home brew vehicle will not be designed so it's intentionally hard to work on, and wears out on purpose.
At current prices for LiFePo4, I'm estimating $17.5K. That of course is cell-only price, I'm sure the charger and balancing controller could drive it as high as $20K.

Aero? I'm borrowing heavily from the AeroCivic for my design. I'm going a step further and not having open wheel wells. The body will extend past the wheels far enough that I can turn the wheels 90 without having to deal with the wheel going beyond the body.

As for weight, the battery pack cells, without the miscellanea, will weigh just a touch over 1,100 lbs, which leaves me ~1,400 lbs to deal with everything else. I figure if I can reasonably use Titanium for the frame, and carbon-fiber for the shell, I should be golden. Plus no transmissions, no differentials, straight motor-on-wheel, no friction brakes, except a parking brake in the motors. I'm actually going as far as having the motors built INTO the rims, instead of having 2 separate pieces. No conventional steering system, all drive-by-wire with a light-cable backup.

Well, I can dream, can't I?
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Old 07-21-2009, 07:56 AM   #14 (permalink)
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Just done my first batch of calcs - I feel quite dizzy. Using the most basic of sums I need 40Kw to accellerate my car to 65 then Iwill need 6Kw to keep it there. (factor of safety figured in there too! (i'm an engineer after all!)

I'm now trying to find a motor/cell/controller package that can give me a peak of 40Kw and a 215AH capacity (@72v)

Any suggestions?
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Old 07-21-2009, 08:53 AM   #15 (permalink)
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Old 07-21-2009, 11:39 PM   #16 (permalink)
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I like the concept you are going for here, i went for a little easier first time out doing this. Took the lotus 7 design and making that an EV.

The higher voltage you go, the lower the amps you will need to maintain that speed. So the lower discharge on your batteries. I have planned on 144V (12x12V), though may drop it back 120V (24x6V) to give better discharge.

Down the centre line is not a bad idea and allows you to drop the passenger sitting hight to really low (from that drawing) and so drop the hieght. Fromt drawings (lines wise) it looks like ur going for something like taller version of the birdcage; 2005 Pininfarina Maserati Birdcage Concept.

Good luck with the build! I am interested to see how i goes as my #2 ev build is going to be a closed body marathon runner. 7 is short blats only.
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Old 07-23-2009, 09:15 AM   #17 (permalink)
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lokking into the 144 idea - seems a good idea - been thinking about 4 of these one at each corner (4x10=40 , genius ) knocking back to just the rears in cruise. Also thinking of a variable pot system on the steering, the more angle the less power to the inside wheel - kind of an electric diff... (but i would have a 'lock button' rear power only, equal over volt power for drifting those 145 tyres on roundabouts...... I'm a child really!, but I have to appeal to the clarksons of the world)
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Old 07-23-2009, 09:38 AM   #18 (permalink)
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I ran some guestimate numbers on those rims. Since they are rated for 1000rpm max, you're looking at about 95-100km/h with the 14 inch rim depending on the sidewall height of your tires. So you're a little short of your top speed requirement.

You also won't be able to hook them up to a junkyard knuckle (aka upright) - you'll be fabbing your own, which means you'll be fabbing your own suspension parts unless you're really clever and can make a knuckle that joins these hubs to an existing suspension.

Personally, i'd shy away from hub motors. There's not much lost in using a front motor and a rear motor with a diff at each end (or a double-shaft motor if you can find one that suits).

They are also only rated for 96V, but the mfg says they'll accomodate whatever... if you want to pay for it

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