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Old 09-23-2012, 04:08 PM   #11 (permalink)
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Next up, Wall bracket + Switch + permanent plumbing + MAYBE a spot free style reverse osmosis filter to avoid drying.

I'll try and get a video soon.

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Last edited by dremd; 09-24-2012 at 10:28 AM..
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Old 09-24-2012, 11:44 PM   #12 (permalink)
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Nozzle sizing chart.
Nozzle Size for Pressure Washer
I have no idea what my nozzle sizes are, but my pump is rated to flow 2.5 gallons/ minute and my electric horsepower is about 1/3 of the original gasoline hp, I'm thinking ill need to run about a number 4 or # 4.5 orifice. I'll measure my current nozzle soon and may try and bore one soon.
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Old 09-25-2012, 10:12 AM   #13 (permalink)
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I'm currently running a #3.5 wich is 1.22mm (1.20mm measured) orifice, and have decided I need someplace in the range of 1.45mm-1.63 mm #5-#6 depending on application.

Hopefully I get to wave bye bye to high bypass soon :-)
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Old 09-25-2012, 08:02 PM   #14 (permalink)
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I drilled out my variable angle spray nozzle to 1.5mm.
Very nice improvement.
It is now noticeably more powerful than a quarter operated car wash, but can easily be turned down with the bypass.
My pressure gauge should arrive soon, I'll report back after I've tried it.
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Old 09-26-2012, 01:55 PM   #15 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dremd View Post
this may resolve itself when I switch from motor oil to pump oil (soon).
Use gear oil.

Quote:
Originally Posted by dremd View Post
MAYBE a spot free style reverse osmosis filter to avoid drying.
Sounds pricey. I have been using a $17 charcoal filter for an RV and a $9 calcium neutralizer for water mist systems on my pressure washer and it has cut down the spots quite a bit.
Both filters have garden hose connectors.

Quote:
Originally Posted by dremd View Post
My pressure gauge should arrive soon, I'll report back after I've tried it.
I hope you got a liquid filled gauge or at least use a pressure pulse dampener.
Because the needle on a regular dry gauge will bounce all over the place.
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Old 09-28-2012, 12:08 PM   #16 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by oil pan 4 View Post
Use gear oil.
Ok


Quote:
Originally Posted by oil pan 4 View Post
Sounds pricey. I have been using a $17 charcoal filter for an RV and a $9 calcium neutralizer for water mist systems on my pressure washer and it has cut down the spots quite a bit.
Both filters have garden hose connectors.
I have a pair of cartridges that were free, I just have to come up with a housing (and bypass for normal mode).
Above would be attractive if I didn't already have free stuff.

Quote:
Originally Posted by oil pan 4 View Post
I hope you got a liquid filled gauge or at least use a pressure pulse dampener.
Because the needle on a regular dry gauge will bounce all over the place.
Gauge is Glyceryn filled, intended for pressure washers. Works well btw. $25 ish from Amazon, prime eligible. Edit : here is the gauge. http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B005QZ4A1E/ref=oh_details_o01_s00_i00

Total "cost" just broke $50
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Old 09-28-2012, 12:21 PM   #17 (permalink)
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Pressure gauge REALLY helps tune bypass.
Electric motor overload trips when I try for continuous operation above 1000 psi.
Motor sounds happy up to 900 psi.
Trigger off (full bypass) keeps pressure up around 1500 psi which doesn't trip the overload.
I've decided that I need to enlarge the orifice further to reduce the amount of bypass necessary/ increase cleaning power.

If I could pick a motor, I would go with one 50-75% of the rated rpm of the original gasoline engine.

I'd estimate whatever % of original horsepower is being used x rated original RPM would give a reasonable speed point for new drive.

I didn't have that luxury, but I have considered doing a belt reduction.
A belt reduction would require an end bearing for the pump (mostly so the shaft doesn't fall out of the pump) 2 pulleys and a belt, may be worth considering for others with mis-matched components.


Anybody know of a cheap 1200 ish psi normally closed pressure switch? Would save a fair amount of electricity while walking around/ whatever.
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Old 09-28-2012, 05:23 PM   #18 (permalink)
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Try looking on ebay for a NC high pressure switch.
What was your original gas engine speed?

I would like to get a 220v single phase 2 pole 3600rpm motor in about the 4 or 5 horsepower range.

I should pick up one of those gauges too. Need to get some idea of the feasability of combinding gas and electric powered pumps.
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1989 firebird mostly stock. Aside from the 6-speed manual trans, corvette gen 5 front brakes, 1LE drive shaft, 4th Gen disc brake fbody rear end.
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Old 09-28-2012, 06:17 PM   #19 (permalink)
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Gasoline engine was 3500 rpm rated (basically same as electric).

I'd like a bigger motor, but where I normally use it I only have 110 volt 20 amp service and this motor was free. I'd bet my pump would work perfect with a 4-5 Jo motor.

Increasingly I'm realizing that nozzle selection is as important as any other component.
I'd assume that you will end up swapping nozzles when you change power source.

I'd also like to find a hp/ gpm/ psi chart/ calculator/ estimator for such projects as well.
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Old 09-29-2012, 08:40 PM   #20 (permalink)
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I added a quick connect between the lance and nozzle so I could easily swap my foam cannon in/ out.
This has a real downside with the adjustable angle nozzle, when you rotate the nozzle nothing happens, so I whipped up a handle on a 3d printer so I can both pick nozzle angle and adjust spray angle as well.

I also drilled my nozzle to 1.72mm, definitely to big, but it does have the advantage of being able to eliminate bypass entireley without fear of tripping the overload, unfortunately washing pressure has fallen to 850 psi, but with the increased volume it cleans as well or maybe better, particularly when rinsing.

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