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Old 02-06-2013, 11:18 PM   #11 (permalink)
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Just bought a '88 HF 2 days ago myself! Mine has 180k on it, smokes just a little and needs a cv, but other than that, it's ok (so far)...no major engine plans for me, just gonna go for max economy on my daily 60 mile round trip to work.
Congrats to both of us!

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Old 02-06-2013, 11:58 PM   #12 (permalink)
Passing the pump :)
 
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Reading about several projects that have been successful, I am wondering which has the biggest bang per buck? Seems like a almost pointed wedge in the front end would be the answer here...piercing the wind instead of bulldozing it as auto front ends tend to do, makes me think heading in that direction would be the best start. Comments?
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Old 02-07-2013, 12:38 AM   #13 (permalink)
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none - '98 Honda Civic HX

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I too just picked up a 1988 CRX HF with 300,000 plus miles on the odometer. The first trip out w/no hypermiling, just easy regular driving 152 Miles @57 mpg. Haven't checked compression yet because I am still in development on my 2000 Chevy Metro (turbo).
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Old 02-07-2013, 01:14 AM   #14 (permalink)
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HeFf - '88 Honda CRX HF
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I start on mine tommorow, barring any weather reated problems. I hope the slight burning of oil doesnt drastically reduce the FE...oil tends to do that lol. Havent actually driven any real distance yet, no brakes (feels like air in the lines, pedal very spongy). All that is small potatos for older technology....cant wait to see my first 10 gallon test! hope its as good as yours..
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Old 02-07-2013, 03:21 AM   #15 (permalink)
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to use your transmission (which I would, its one of the tallest FD of any FWD trans) You need a D series engine made after 1988, see if you can get a D13 imported, I missed an opportunity on a D14 someone had here in michigan. With a turbo, and moderately lean tune you could have enough power for the hills, complete bolt in engine and higher mileage than stock.

P.S. if your friend can get more than one D14 or D13 or even a D12 but it was euro only and not likely to be in japan let me know, because im interested.
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Old 02-07-2013, 06:47 AM   #16 (permalink)
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aerodynamics

@type-S Thank you! let the search commence! I am also going to see if he can find something tiny in the oddball pile for the N600.. maybe.

RE: pointy nose cars

I was told once by a rocket scientist ( he actually was - designed some parts on the shuttle )

" if you look at a raindrop falling, that's the best shape possible for aerodynamics"

I still wonder how we ended up with pointy nose cars with roundy butts, instead of the other way around...

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Old 02-07-2013, 02:20 PM   #17 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CRXellent View Post
@type-S Thank you! let the search commence! I am also going to see if he can find something tiny in the oddball pile for the N600.. maybe.

RE: pointy nose cars

I was told once by a rocket scientist ( he actually was - designed some parts on the shuttle )

" if you look at a raindrop falling, that's the best shape possible for aerodynamics"

I still wonder how we ended up with pointy nose cars with roundy butts, instead of the other way around...

I have wondered the same thing, once in a while they do come out with somthing in that shape, like the Mercedes-Benz Bionic concept, aka on top gear as the fish car because the box fish was its inspiration.
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Old 02-07-2013, 04:27 PM   #18 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BlueCruxHF View Post
Reading about several projects that have been successful, I am wondering which has the biggest bang per buck? Seems like a almost pointed wedge in the front end would be the answer here...piercing the wind instead of bulldozing it as auto front ends tend to do, makes me think heading in that direction would be the best start. Comments?

I'm not an aero expert, but from what I've read from people that are, the general thing about cars is that they are sub-sonic and air begins to move around even before it gets to the vehicle. A rounded shape into the wind is best suited to do this. A pointed front end does not do as well except for wind that hits directly head-on. In real world practice, that would seldom be the case. Air moving over that sharp angle has more tendency to break away causing drag inducing turbulence. A similar thing happens with squarish front ends because of the hard angles. Having the narrowing end toward the rear allows the air pressure to regain equilibrium with the surround air mass without breaking off from the surface causing drag. Nature is good at showing how to move through the air with the least resistance. For sub sonic speeds, the teardrop is that shape. We just try to get close approximations of that shape to get the least amount of drag penalty to our vehicles from our efforts in that regard. Or as Craig Vetter would say: "The truth is, streamlining is round in the front and pointed at the rear."

Generally speaking, blunt rear ends don't work as well as tapering back ends do because air has a hard time staying attached (thus causing drag) when the surface is angled too sharply away from the air flow direction.

Things happen somewhat differently at super sonic speeds where pointy front ends are good. But not to worry, we don't go that fast anyway.
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Old 02-08-2013, 01:10 PM   #19 (permalink)
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I get the "point" ...er, not to use it anyway.
Thats why I came here, Im a newbie in the aero world, and appreciate the advice. The sharp front end was inspired by the old Lamborgini Countach...which of course, has a very sharp nose...I was thinking they had some good aero designs on board to acheive 200 mph...but then too, 500 hp helps too.

I am planning a frontend mod that will slide in like a reciever hitch as opposed to mods being screwed on. Instead of plugging up front end vents and adding spoilers, I was thinking an additional (now bubble shaped instead of sharp ) frontend cap that can be removed easily by pulling a pin. It will be started off with just styrofoam, then depending on outcome, go to fiberglass or something similar.
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Old 02-08-2013, 01:16 PM   #20 (permalink)
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Aside from considering partial grille blocking and possibly a deeper air dam, I wouldn't spend too much effort messing around with the front of the car.

The bigger gains are to be found focusing on the rear (extension/boat tail), also wheels/wheelcovers/skirts, and smoothing the underside.

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