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Old 01-29-2010, 10:41 PM   #31 (permalink)
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Unfortunately, if it's only 10%, I'm going to have to call it a fail. 10% is a gain that you'd see from doing the basic stuff that we all do when we first get our cars. It's a little more difficult on a car that's already somewhat efficient, but still within reach.

I'm going to set an upper limit of 40%. If I see more than that, I'm really going to have to analyze it to find out why. Unfortunately, I have no baseline to go from, either, other than EPA estimates and whatever real world data I can glean from other owners. There are no other Storms on this site, that I know of. (Of the same body/config)

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Old 01-29-2010, 11:12 PM   #32 (permalink)
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Only 10% would be a definite fail. It's going to be soooo slooooooowwwwww, soon you'll be dreaming of more power.
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Old 01-29-2010, 11:16 PM   #33 (permalink)
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I first read about a project like this when I started collecting Mother Earth News back in the 90's. The magazine I was reading it in was considerably older, and I can't remember exactly how old. They did pretty much everything you guys have mentioned, with the exception of EFI considerations. I think they switched down to a smaller carb to cope with the lower airflow. I also can't remember what kind of results they got, more's the pity, but I think what they got was stronger than what you guys are talking about, closer to 40%. But Mother was likely to shout exaggerations quite a bit back then, and the stock mileage was atrocious.

I don't think they cut conrods though. The article mentioned being able to undo the mods and have the vehicle in its original configuration with one quick afternoon's work.

I've seen a couple of projects that used a VW engine shortened by two cylinders to make an opposed twin. Performance goes out the window. Thinking of that though, does anybody know if anyone's tried the same trick with a Subaru EJ? If you could have even just 30% of the power, that's still a solid 50hp in a compact powerplant - not bad for a flyweight commuter.
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Old 01-29-2010, 11:25 PM   #34 (permalink)
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El High -

There are 2cyl boxer conversions on Youtube, but I normally don't save them when I stumble on them.

I've seen a few different iterations of the 2cylinder idea, too, one of which involved heated water injection into the 2 non-functional (still moving) cylinders where exhaust heat would turn it into steam, causing expansion.

The only reason I'm cutting rods is so I don't have to cut/balance the crank. I'm going to cut the big-ends of the rods and just put some sealant in the bearings and over tighten them a bit so they don't swing around. I'm gonna make an attempt to keep both cut rods the same weight, so that there isn't as much variation in the fly weight balance.
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Old 01-30-2010, 07:08 AM   #35 (permalink)
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I wouldn't expect the water injection to work. I don't think there'd be enough heat leaking into the two idling cylinders for a decent steam expansion. I say this with no experience, just my gut. My guts aren't that smart, so I may be full of baloney at this point.

I would like to see more from Crower on his six-cycle process. A couple of intriguing news articles, followed by a long and disheartening silence. He suggested his steam cycle could take the place of a radiator in the engine's cooling regime. Still need one for a condenser, but anyway.
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Old 01-30-2010, 11:02 PM   #36 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by elhigh View Post
I wouldn't expect the water injection to work. I don't think there'd be enough heat leaking into the two idling cylinders for a decent steam expansion. I say this with no experience, just my gut. My guts aren't that smart, so I may be full of baloney at this point.

I would like to see more from Crower on his six-cycle process. A couple of intriguing news articles, followed by a long and disheartening silence. He suggested his steam cycle could take the place of a radiator in the engine's cooling regime. Still need one for a condenser, but anyway.
The "idle" cylinders had exhaust gasses pumped from the exhaust of the running cylinders into the intakes of those cylinders, along with water injection on the "combustion" stroke of those cylinders. The water was also pre-heated with coils on the exhaust piping to take advantage of any left-over heat in the exhaust stream.

Basically, imagine it as two 2cylinder engines.

Run your first engine normally, except pipe the exhaust into the second engine's intake manifold, then run that engine, except instead of spark plugs use pipe connections with differential valves that spray water into the cylinder. Preheated water sprayed in, exhaust heat warms it up enough to turn to steam, it expands, then exhaust stroke happens on the second motor. Make them both run at the same speed. It's just another way to extract heat from exhaust gasses and re-use it as mechanical work.
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Old 01-31-2010, 12:16 AM   #37 (permalink)
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well, I'm thinking ust for simplicities sake, drop the pan and cut the crank with a cutoff wheel just outside the middle bearing so you have three bearings for the two cylinders near the flywheel.

Then pull the rockers on the disconnected cylinders
hook the alternator up to a wheel/inboard axle shaft via belt/something
put an electric motor on the water pump
aeromod the heck out of it
figure out a lockup switch if appropriate
and see if you can't make something that can cruise at hiway speed at a real decent mpg.

replace alternator with altermotor and install a trolling battery to help a tiny bit with getting up to speed, after initial hiway tests.
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Old 01-31-2010, 12:20 AM   #38 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dcb View Post
well, I'm thinking ust for simplicities sake, drop the pan and cut the crank with a cutoff wheel just outside the middle bearing so you have three bearings for the two cylinders near the flywheel.

Then pull the rockers on the disconnected cylinders
hook the alternator up to a wheel/inboard axle shaft via belt/something
put an electric motor on the water pump
aeromod the heck out of it
figure out a lockup switch if appropriate
and see if you can't make something that can cruise at hiway speed at a real decent mpg.

replace alternator with altermotor and install a trolling battery to help a tiny bit with getting up to speed, after initial hiway tests.
There's nothing simple about cutting the crank, my friend.

How would I then drive the cam?

The other issue is that I still don't know what a damage inspection is going to reveal, and that using just the #3 and #4 cylinders would give me a two combustion events 180* apart with 640* of nothing.

I already intend to do some aeromods to see if I can get it down to .22-.20 or so. I'll settle for .25, if I have to without going too extreme.

In theory, the engine should have at least 20 HP. We already know that a heavier Escort wagon can go 40 and get 40MPG with a 6HP Robin single cylinder (Thanks Frank.), so I should be pretty good to go. Slowly, but still able to go.
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Old 01-31-2010, 12:32 AM   #39 (permalink)
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ah, yah, cam There is probably some oiling issues there too.
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Old 01-31-2010, 12:33 AM   #40 (permalink)
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Yup. It's a good thing I don't just run & cut, eh?

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