Cylinder deactivation attempt

[Frank Lee]

Maybe when you tear into it, the damage will tell you which cyls should stay and which should go.

[Christ]

As far as I can tell, it's only #1 that's damaged. The three cylinder thing is a long shot, I'll have to be really bored to want to do that.

When I really get into it, though, you're right, it'll probably lead me into a decision, rather than having to think about it.

I do sorta wish I wasn't going to spend any money doing this, but I guess a head gasket is cheap enough...

[Christ]

Also -

Once this thing is running (if it gets running at some point, satisfactorily), I will probably have to completely block the grille and remove the radiator, replacing it with a smaller core inserted into a forced air duct.

I say this because I'll have half an aluminum engine making heat, and the other half acting like a heat sink... it'll be hard enough to get it to warm up, so I don't imagine that I'll have any cooling issues.

[Frank Lee]

Do NOT attempt a 3 cyl!!!

The pulses are not even like a Metro triple; the exhaust note alone will make you want to blow it up within a few miles. I know.

Keep a rad, it'll need it. The "heat sink" will cause a longer warm-up but from then on it needs to be able to reject heat faster than a block will.

[Christ]

I lol'd a little.

[Frank Lee]

If you just look at 2 and 3 in your animation, that is what the Honda CB450 I have does. I could only wish for the auto 2 banger to run that nice!

This was before your time here...http://ecomodder.com/forum/showthrea...ssion-968.html

[Christ]

Originally Posted by Frank Lee

If you just look at 2 and 3 in your animation, that is what the Honda CB450 I have does. I could only wish for the auto 2 banger to run that nice!

This was before your time here...http://ecomodder.com/forum/showthrea...ssion-968.html

I was trying to get a CB450 Honda-Matic awhile ago, but the guy wouldn't budge on the price, which was about $1000 more than I wanted to pay (he wanted $1750... not even close to reasonable), so I passed on it.

You ever flattened out a wheel weight? You can get them pretty flat, and that might be enough to insert it between the rod journal and bearing on the big end of the rod, to keep it from rotating on the bearing surface at all... squeeze fit, once you tighten/torque the nuts.

[Christ]

You gonna finally do this if I start working on it, Frank?

[Frank Lee]

I wouldn't trust that flattened weight. The forces are huge.

I'm not even going to be near my home for a few months yet. Even then, doing it to one of my current cars kind of interferes with my long-time, hard-earned mantra: If It Ain't Broke, Don't Fix It. All the Tempos are running great at this time.

If I had an engine like yours, with what's likely one problem cylinder, I'd be all over it!

[dcb]

I think you should try to do it without taking the heads off or it will never get done

so:
1. pop off the oilpan.
2. remove the big end caps on the two cylinders you want to deactivate.
3. pull the sparkplugs on those cylinders
4. take a washer and a long drywall screw and drill it into the piston through the sparkplug hole to "secure" it at the top of its travel.
5. sawzall off the bottom end of those con rods so the crank doesn't hit it (perhaps do this earlier so you don't stress out your drywall screw).
6. remove lifters on those cylinders
7. enjoy 2 cylinder goodness