David's 2001 Civic EV (80-100 mile range; 65+ MPH; 8 second 0-60)

[TheSGC]

Yesterday I installed the new KATs 2000 watt heater. Well, last night on my way home from a birthday party it worked for about 5 minutes!

Here's what we think happened: there may have still been an air pocket in the lines, OR it was too powerful and just cooked itself. I had heat for about 5 minutes, enough to defrost the windshield, then nothing.

My plan now is to get a 1000 watt version and install that, and add a bleeder valve to my system so I can properly add coolant to it. At least I'm on break now and the weather is going to be nice this week. I am going to give the local auto parts store a call this afternoon to see if they have any in stock it not I'll next day ship it from Amazon.

[gone7]

I would have guessed that having to get to the heater core would have been even less than two hours. Another possibility is that there is fresh air intake and a heater could be installed upstream from that without having to remove the core.

[TheSGC]

Originally Posted by ACEV

I would have guessed that having to get to the heater core would have been even less than two hours. Another possibility is that there is fresh air intake and a heater could be installed upstream from that without having to remove the core.

In order to get to the heater core I'd have to discharge the air conditioner and that is just not practical for me.

[TheSGC]

I got the heater installed and bled the system like crazy, so it should be fine now. I spent a good 20-30 minutes with the over flow tank held up high and the farthest connection from the tank in the air and fill from both ends until the air bubbles stop. Then I shook all the lines until the levels went down and refilled.

At the end I could adjust the levels of fluid in the reservoir and the furthest tube by raising and lowering them, showing me that the system was full. Then I let the pump run for a few minutes and I now hear the fluid running through the heater core in the cabin.

Good new is I might not need the heater for much longer, its about 65F out today in the sun and spring is coming!

[skyking]

David, I have not read the whole thread yet but wondered:
Have you done a max range test? Lets say 75% DOD for example. I see you charge at work. I don't know if my wife will be able to do that. It is about a 43 mile round trip with 14 miles of freeway to it.

[TheSGC]

Originally Posted by skyking

David, I have not read the whole thread yet but wondered:
Have you done a max range test? Lets say 75% DOD for example. I see you charge at work. I don't know if my wife will be able to do that. It is about a 43 mile round trip with 14 miles of freeway to it.

I have not done a max range test yet. I have done a 45 mile round trip with full heat and I had no diminish in power.

Right now I am estimating 60 miles in winter and 77 miles in the summer to 80% DoD. I'm going to work on a few things to improve the efficiency. My goal is to get over 80 miles per charge and there are a number of things I can do. I need to adjust the camber in one wheel which should help and I'm thinking about grill blocks and higher tire pressure.

[mountainmike47]

Can you tell me a little about the kind of tach you intend to install and where you will be making your connections. Thanks.

[TheSGC]

Originally Posted by mountainmike47

Can you tell me a little about the kind of tach you intend to install and where you will be making your connections. Thanks.

I'm using the Warp speed sensor and using the tach output on my Zilla to connect to the stock Civic EX tachometer.

[mountainmike47]

I have a 1994 Toyota Camry that was converted back in 2007. The motor is an Advanced Motors FB1 4001A and the controller is a Curtis PMC #1221C-7401. The guy who did the conversion removed the factory tach to make room for the ammeter & voltmeter. Do you have any suggestions with regard to how a tach could be made to work and what type of tach you would recommend? Thanks.

[TheSGC]

Originally Posted by mountainmike47

I have a 1994 Toyota Camry that was converted back in 2007. The motor is an Advanced Motors FB1 4001A and the controller is a Curtis PMC #1221C-7401. The guy who did the conversion removed the factory tach to make room for the ammeter & voltmeter. Do you have any suggestions with regard to how a tach could be made to work and what type of tach you would recommend? Thanks.

I don't know much about tachometers, this is going to be my first attempt at getting one working. I am hoping to try it this weekend, along with my current and volt meters. I really need some sort of AH or fuel gauge for my EV.