DIY electric water pump - on the cheap

[oil pan 4]

While driving and keeping the engine under load the operating temperature doesn't seem to change a lot.
But idling, with the heat blowing I have seen it drop from 190'F down to 160'F in little more than 10 minutes when running non turbo.

Adding the turbochargers to the cooling circuit has helped this.

Iron has lower specific heat, but is almost always black so emissive losses will be higher.
Aluminum holds more heat and the blocks are usually bare finished and some what reflective, cutting down on IR emissions.
If you have an aluminum and iron block offering for a specific engine, you can bet the iron block will come up to operating temperature faster and also cool off faster.

[Daox]

I made some progress with things this weekend.

I removed the water pump bolts and replaced them with studs.





Then, I attached the new pulley. This allows me to run the original belt or the electric pulley belt should something happen. Also, if the electric pulley belt fails due to the heat, the nuts between the two pulleys are still there to hold the original pulley on.





So, back to mounting the motor. Here is the progress with the mount. Its not real pretty right now. But, its getting there. This shows how the motor will be attached.







Drilled some mounting holes for the motor bolts.





And, here is the test fit. It looks like it'll work great. It still needs some work. Mainly just finish welding (its just tacked together right now), and it also needs to be slotted to allow for belt adjustment.

I also went ahead and measured my center distances with the pulleys on the car and was able to order the belt that I'll need for it.

[California98Civic]

Digging around for info on EWPs I came across this article. It is only a citation and an abstract, but in general it confirms a benefit to what you're trying, depending on design I am sure. So the 1.8L Prius engine got the EWP as a way to increase power output while improving FE also. Imagine if they had just applied the EWP to the 1.5L and forgot about increased power.

Title: "Development of New 1.8-Liter Engine for Hybrid Vehicles"

ABSTRACT: "In recent years, attention has been focused on a hybrid vehicle capable of substantial reductions in CO2 exhaust emissions. This paper describes the newly developed 1.8-liter 2ZR-FXE gasoline engine for use with a hybrid system for compact vehicles, which effectively combines higher driving performance with higher fuel efficiency.

This engine was based on the 1.8-liter 2ZR-FE engine with outstanding performance and fuel efficiency. This engine has achieved high thermal efficiency by using the high-expansion ratio cycle “Atkinson cycle”, as with the previous 1NZ-FXE engine. Additionally, a new cooled Exhaust Gas Recirculation (EGR) system and electric water pump were adopted to further improve fuel efficiency.

A high efficiency cooler was used to cool the EGR gas, which enabled the introduction of the EGR gas at high load conditions, and exhaust gas temperature was reduced. As a result, this EGR system successfully combined both high output performance and low fuel consumption during high speeds.

The electric water pump allowed the cooling water flow rate to be optimally controlled according to the engine operating conditions. This shortened engine warm-up time. In addition, friction was successfully reduced by eliminating accessory drive belts.

With these improvements, lower fuel consumption has been achieved over the previous 1.5-liter 1NZ-FXE engine and, at the same time, the power output has been improved."

[Daox]

I've been reading up on various papers lately. I wanted to see if there was a good general strategy I haven't thought of to control the electric water pump. I stumbled across this:

http://www.clemson.edu/ces/crb/resea...ms/thermal.pdf

Advanced thermal system technologies can provide 1-3% fuel economy improvements through lower parasitic losses, higher operating temperatures, reduced component temperature fluxuations, lowered emissions, and alternative engine block monitoring temperatures.

So, that puts it into perspective what this mod will do for a FE increase. Of course, I'm running an alternator delete, so I should hopefully see the high end of that.

[Daox]

Last night I finished up the key and got the pulley mounted on the motor. I also got the motor mount welded up fully, slotted, and its ready for install.





All I'm really waiting for now is the belt I ordered. I'll probably get that sometime next week.

I was going to start wiring things up, but I don't think that I'll do that because I still want to do the testing before the full install.

Lastly, the printed water pump pulley has been holding up great to the heat since its installation. Of course, it hasn't been under any load, so that'll add more stress to it. Time will tell if it holds up.

[Daox]

I got the belt last night and had a little time to try mounting everything up on the car. It turns out the belt was a bit too short, so I'll be modifying the mount to make it fit. It shouldn't be a huge problem.

[serialk11r]

Nice to see this close to working! You really trust that plastic pulley? :O I would've gone with direct drive.

[Daox]

Thanks. I'm still not 100% sure on the pulley, but there haven't been any issues thus far. The pulley has been on the car for a while now and it has been hot here, the conditions won't get much worse. So, I'm fairly certain that it'll hold up.

Direct drive would be great, but there simply isn't room for it.

[deejaaa]

also glad to see your progress. keep us posted.

[Daox]

Necro thread. Actually not, but I've just been working on other stuff on the Metro (rust repair) that I wanted to get done before winter. There is still a bit more to do, but its also getting cold out and I would definitely like heat while my engine is off. So, its time to update this.

I got the belt and test fitted it a while back. Unfortunately, it was a bit too short. So, I ordered a slightly longer belt. I haven't test fit this one, but I certainly hope to do it soon. Once its fitted, I can go ahead with testing the current draw at different rpms just for knowledge sake.