09-23-2008, 11:48 PM
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#21 (permalink)
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Deadly Efficient
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If it was my car...
I would take off the inner door panel and try to bump that crease out. Then I would try to straighten the aft lip of the fender in front of the door, enough so it wouldn't catch on the front edge of the door when it's opened. Then I would use a ball pein hammer and massage the front lip of the door so it tucks in behind the fender. It wouldn't look any better, but I can't stand wind noise/squeeks/rattles in my cars.
Doesn't it leak when it rains?
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09-24-2008, 09:39 AM
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#22 (permalink)
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EcoModding Apprentice
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DifferentPointofView
for that door, use like, clear plastic to go on the door, and tape it with artists masking tape about 6 inches from the door on either side. That way you can still open the door because the plastic will do what a band-aid does on an elbow. When you close the door (bend your elbow) the plastic (which really is like a band-aid) stretches and covers the dent (cut) and when you open the door (straighten elbow out) the plastic will do an accordion-esk bend.
That dent is definitely effecting FE, try the plastic thing first and see if you notice a change in sound.
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Good idea, thanks
I'll try to do that this weekend and see what happens on my 100 mile round trip on Monday (in terms of sound). It'll probably tank several tanks to come to any conclusion about effects on FE, I think.
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09-24-2008, 09:44 AM
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#23 (permalink)
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EcoModding Apprentice
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Tango Charlie
If it was my car...
I would take off the inner door panel and try to bump that crease out. Then I would try to straighten the aft lip of the fender in front of the door, enough so it wouldn't catch on the front edge of the door when it's opened. Then I would use a ball pein hammer and massage the front lip of the door so it tucks in behind the fender. It wouldn't look any better, but I can't stand wind noise/squeeks/rattles in my cars.
Doesn't it leak when it rains?
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Believe it or not, it doesn't leak when it rains. The only potential leaking problem I have is where the window meets the top of the door. That's only when washing the car in that direct spot or during extremely heavy rain. The window used to go up and down fairly easily, but it worked its way off and now it'll come down (sometimes) and is a pain to get to roll back up. You have to push the window against the car while rolling it up to get it to match up with the top of the door correctly.
That being said, first I think I'll try the plastic idea from the post just ahead of yours. Then, if I get tired of that or I don't notice gains or what have you, I'll probably try your idea. I hate to bang at it too much for two reasons: 1) It's rusted and I'm not sure how brittle those creases are now; and 2) I hate to bend it to where I change the way the door closes too far away from what I'm used to.
Man, getting a junk yard door is sounding more and more tempting. That doesn't solve the front quarter panel damage, but that could be fixed using part of your idea.
Thank you.
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"It is foolish and wrong to mourn the men who died. Rather we should thank God that such men lived."
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09-24-2008, 12:16 PM
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#24 (permalink)
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Giant Moving Eco-Wall
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oh, when taping, be sure to wash the part your taping first
That way it stays on when your driving 55+ on the highway, or if it starts to rain (better seal)
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09-24-2008, 12:50 PM
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#25 (permalink)
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econ00b
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Old school body trick, have a piece of 2x4 and hit that with the hammer where you want to move the metal. It distributes the force and wont leave the little circle dents. Definately tap the door out from the inside first. Use the wood to move the front edge of the door back into place. That fender is pretty gnarled on the edge though, if you dont really care how it looks the easiest way to get it bent back close to shape would be a pair of pliers. Tape off the edge before you pry it around and you wont take as much paint off. Or you could probly get a replacement fender from a junk yard for cheap.
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09-24-2008, 02:56 PM
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#26 (permalink)
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EcoModding Apprentice
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DifferentPointofView
oh, when taping, be sure to wash the part your taping first
That way it stays on when your driving 55+ on the highway, or if it starts to rain (better seal)
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Thanks for the reminder. I actually went driving through some mud puddles a couple weeks back. El Camrino changed colors on me after that ordeal. There is still pinestraw caked on with mud on the underside of my car. However, that'll be washed off in a couple weeks when I wash my entire car again.
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"It is foolish and wrong to mourn the men who died. Rather we should thank God that such men lived."
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09-24-2008, 02:57 PM
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#27 (permalink)
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EcoModding Apprentice
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 1.5Ldave
Old school body trick, have a piece of 2x4 and hit that with the hammer where you want to move the metal. It distributes the force and wont leave the little circle dents. Definately tap the door out from the inside first. Use the wood to move the front edge of the door back into place. That fender is pretty gnarled on the edge though, if you dont really care how it looks the easiest way to get it bent back close to shape would be a pair of pliers. Tape off the edge before you pry it around and you wont take as much paint off. Or you could probly get a replacement fender from a junk yard for cheap.
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Thanks. The wood trick was what we used to get the door to close somewhat normally again. We had a 2x4, car jack, and a sledgehammer. That seemed to do the trick for the most part.
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"It is foolish and wrong to mourn the men who died. Rather we should thank God that such men lived."
- General George S. Patton, Jr
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