e-bike update - Page 3 - Fuel Economy, Hypermiling, EcoModding News and Forum

Lazarus · 04-20-2008, 03:50 PM

Well the 48V was a bust with the current setup. The top speed was the same still 23 mph. It would not be cost affective to go any futher. I would need a new charger and a new controller if I wanted to pursue it any futher.

AndrewJ · 04-20-2008, 05:27 PM

Are you going to keep the 48v setup for the extra range or are you reverting to 36v?

Too bad the 28c won't fit. Is a 25c tire an option? I had a 25x700 Bonty Hardcase on my singlespeed and I loved it.
I got it after a piece of glass in the bike lane ripped through the sidewall of my old tire, from the center of the bead clear to the rim.
That was one fast loss of pressure...

Anyway,
This gets me thinking...
Do you have enough clearance at the fork crown to run a 28c tire up front? You could put the batteries up front in some lowrider panniers. Your front tire has less weight on it in the first place, so putting the extra 30lbs up front makes sense to balance the load.
And putting it in lowriders lowers your center of gravity.
And you'd get your batts closer to the hub and controller, shortening the wire runs.

Just a thought.

Lazarus · 04-20-2008, 06:17 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by AndrewJ

Are you going to keep the 48v setup for the extra range or are you reverting to 36v?

Too bad the 28c won't fit. Is a 25c tire an option? I had a 25x700 Bonty Hardcase on my singlespeed and I loved it.
I got it after a piece of glass in the bike lane ripped through the sidewall of my old tire, from the center of the bead clear to the rim.
That was one fast loss of pressure...

Anyway,
This gets me thinking...
Do you have enough clearance at the fork crown to run a 28c tire up front? You could put the batteries up front in some lowrider panniers. Your front tire has less weight on it in the first place, so putting the extra 30lbs up front makes sense to balance the load.
And putting it in lowriders lowers your center of gravity.
And you'd get your batts closer to the hub and controller, shortening the wire runs.

Just a thought.

No I went back to 36V. I did not want to lug the extra weight around. I've been pleasantly surprised that range really is not a problem so far. I keep pushing it farther and digging deeper into the pack and it just keep going.

I've got a 28c up front. I don't think a 25c will fit on the rear the 23c is really tight. This whole e-bike thing has me drooling over every touring bike I see. My bike is meant to be a racer and is really not set up for this. I'll take the money I save in gas and put it towards a touring bike one of these days.

Continental Tires are my favorite tire. Nice feel and long lasting. I quit using them because they got expensive and if you had a flat it was impossible to get them on and off the rims without 2 tire tools. Although as fast as the rear is wearing I might have to go back.

Lazarus · 04-23-2008, 12:11 AM

Everything is still working very well and with the DMV installed to monitor the pack voltage I have been getting more use out of the pack which has also increased recharge times. Longest recharge has been 5.5 hours after a 30 mile trip. I've lost count of the recharge cycles

but estimate around 120.

Longest commute is 34 miles without a recharge. I've regularly done the 52 mile trip with a 1.5 hour opportunity recharge at the midway point with no problems. Still have wear issues with the 23c tire due to the excess weight of the pack and will try a different brand then the Michelin's when it is time to replace.

Lazarus · 04-28-2008, 10:06 AM

Looks like the batteries may be starting to fade. I have not noticed any performance or range difference yet but, after complete charge, 12 hours later, the pack voltage is reading 39.8v instead of the normal 40.v.

MetroMPG · 04-28-2008, 10:14 AM

Are they starting to experience some hot temps? I like the line "batteries are killed in the winter, but they die in the summer".

Also just a thought on your previous post: with flooded batteries at least (not sure if the SLA's are the same), there's an optimal depth of discharge to number of cycles ratio. You've mentioned you're "getting more use out of the pack". Something to think about.

Lazarus · 04-28-2008, 10:22 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by MetroMPG

Are they starting to experience some hot temps? I like the line "batteries are killed in the winter, but they die in the summer".

Also just a thought on your previous post: with flooded batteries at least (not sure if the SLA's are the same), there's an optimal depth of discharge to number of cycles ratio. You've mentioned you're "getting more use out of the pack". Something to think about.

Yes we are seeing mid to high 80's now but I've never taken them below 36.5 volts under load. So I don't think that's it. I've read that there is a cutoff at 33 volts that kills the pack so you can't power it anymore. I also seemed to remember reading that the batteries were good for about 220 cycles which I'm over halfway there so I don't know. I've never killed the pack to where I could not go so I'll just monitor it and see what happens. As of now the performance and range has not been affected.

caledondave · 05-07-2008, 10:57 AM

Hi All,

I also just purchased a conversion kit. It is a 407 crystalite motor, 36 volt x 8 amp NiCad battery pack, 36 volt contoller (does not require you to peddle first), on board computer, twist throttle, etc. It is on my old Schwinn Mesa mountain bike which is outfitted with 26" x 2" wide semi-slicks (virtually smooth), but with knobs on the side for gripping softer surfaces.

It should be faster but alas the rider is a true Clydesdale running at 260# and with tons of wind resistance (I'm 6'8" tall).

Anyway I drove it to work the other day (14 km one way) on the paved park system trails and found that the "fuel economy" was around 4 watts per km. This was when I was peddling most of the time and using the motor to assist me in climbing the hills. My average speed was quite high ~ 24 km and I was moving at a fairly high gear (3 x 7). I wonder how this stacks up and what kind of "mpg" equivalent I am getting? Does anyone have that formula available?

caledondave

Lazarus · 05-07-2008, 10:31 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by caledondave

Hi All,

I also just purchased a conversion kit. It is a 407 crystalite motor, 36 volt x 8 amp NiCad battery pack, 36 volt contoller (does not require you to peddle first), on board computer, twist throttle, etc. It is on my old Schwinn Mesa mountain bike which is outfitted with 26" x 2" wide semi-slicks (virtually smooth), but with knobs on the side for gripping softer surfaces.

It should be faster but alas the rider is a true Clydesdale running at 260# and with tons of wind resistance (I'm 6'8" tall).

Anyway I drove it to work the other day (14 km one way) on the paved park system trails and found that the "fuel economy" was around 4 watts per km. This was when I was peddling most of the time and using the motor to assist me in climbing the hills. My average speed was quite high ~ 24 km and I was moving at a fairly high gear (3 x 7). I wonder how this stacks up and what kind of "mpg" equivalent I am getting? Does anyone have that formula available?

caledondave

Caledondave welcome to the site. I see Metro answered this in another post. It's best not to cross post because it gets confusing. Have fun with the bike.

Figjam74 · 05-08-2008, 10:33 AM

Schwinn is using Li-Po batteries on their electric-assist bikes and claiming 60 miles to a charge (4 hour recharge). They're also claiming that the drivetrain weighs in at 10lbs, I'm not sure if that includes the battery pack but they look damn small.
http://www.schwinnbike.com/products/...ory.php?id=110
I'd love one, but I think it'll be a while before I can justify 2+ Grand for a bicycle.