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Old 05-31-2019, 12:25 PM   #11 (permalink)
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Driving slower and coasting to stops will show the largest FE improvement in a minivan, hands down. Was getting around 30 MPG around town and up to 34 on the highway in the family's 2004 Sienna V6 before it was totaled just by doing that. EPA was like 18 city 25 highway or something like that. I also used cruise control but used the up/down buttons to adjust speed up and down hills to avoid downshifting on the very tall geared transmission.

I'm guessing your Odyssey is a V6? Does it have cylinder deactivation?

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Old 05-31-2019, 12:28 PM   #12 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mpg_numbers_guy View Post
Driving slower and coasting to stops will show the largest FE improvement in a minivan, hands down. Was getting around 30 MPG around town and up to 34 on the highway in the family's 2004 Sienna V6 before it was totaled just by doing that. EPA was like 18 city 25 highway or something like that. I also used cruise control but used the up/down buttons to adjust speed up and down hills to avoid downshifting on the very tall geared transmission.

I'm guessing your Odyssey is a V6? Does it have cylinder deactivation?
It's a V6, not sure if it has cylinder deactivation or not.

Teaching my wife to drive efficiently would be like teaching a fish to fly. She gripes about the cost of brake pads, but then does the last minute hard stops, no matter how many times I explain that slowing down more gradually will increase their lifespan.
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Old 05-31-2019, 12:45 PM   #13 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Shaneajanderson View Post
It's a V6, not sure if it has cylinder deactivation or not.

Teaching my wife to drive efficiently would be like teaching a fish to fly. She gripes about the cost of brake pads, but then does the last minute hard stops, no matter how many times I explain that slowing down more gradually will increase their lifespan.
Just looked it up, and it looks like on the '07 the EX, EX-L, and touring trims have cylinder deactivation, so depending on what trim level you have you may or may not have it. Cylinder deactivation improves cruising economy, but also makes the engine more prone to burning oil as it ages, so it's a bit of a win some lose some situation either way. The newer Odyssey's could get 40-ish MPG when cruising in 3-cylinder mode, so that might help some if you have it in yours.

You could put in some kind of controller that limits the top speed to 65 MPH and prevents the engine from revving past 3000 RPM. (just kidding..)
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Old 05-31-2019, 01:46 PM   #14 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by mpg_numbers_guy View Post
Just looked it up, and it looks like on the '07 the EX, EX-L, and touring trims have cylinder deactivation, so depending on what trim level you have you may or may not have it. Cylinder deactivation improves cruising economy, but also makes the engine more prone to burning oil as it ages, so it's a bit of a win some lose some situation either way. The newer Odyssey's could get 40-ish MPG when cruising in 3-cylinder mode, so that might help some if you have it in yours.

You could put in some kind of controller that limits the top speed to 65 MPH and prevents the engine from revving past 3000 RPM. (just kidding..)
I'm wrench savvy, not tech savvy, otherwise I might. The van will hit 90mph without you noticing and she usually sets the cruise at 85. I'll look into that cylinder deactivation some more, maybe it'll kick in if I get her to slow down a little.

Everything else I own leaks oil, so I'm in the habit or checking it often anyway, so that's not an issue to me.
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Old 05-31-2019, 03:34 PM   #15 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Shaneajanderson View Post
O2 sensor for my odyssey is like $20. The downstream O2 sensor exists only to see if the catalytic converter is working, so actually it will throw a code if the two agree, which would indicate a catalyst failure
Be wary of super cheap sensors. They might as well be a plug. My dad bought a sub $10 knock sensor for his S2000, threw a check engine light immediately. The proper working sensor was in the $90-130 range if I remember correctly. Buy once, cry once.

Also, check out this thread on modding a Honda Pilot for some ideas.

https://ecomodder.com/forum/showthre...epa-27437.html
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Old 05-31-2019, 03:42 PM   #16 (permalink)
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Be wary of super cheap sensors. They might as well be a plug. My dad bought a sub $10 knock sensor for his S2000, threw a check engine light immediately. The proper working sensor was in the $90-130 range if I remember correctly. Buy once, cry once.

Also, check out this thread on modding a Honda Pilot for some ideas.

https://ecomodder.com/forum/showthre...epa-27437.html
Thanks for the link, I'll check it out.

$20 gave me my choice of a few brands, including Denso, on rockauto. I'm sure the Toyota part would be ridiculous but I seldom buy OE branded parts, and I've never regretted it.
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Old 05-31-2019, 04:37 PM   #17 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Shaneajanderson View Post
Thanks for the link, I'll check it out.

$20 gave me my choice of a few brands, including Denso, on rockauto. I'm sure the Toyota part would be ridiculous but I seldom buy OE branded parts, and I've never regretted it.
The Insight uses a special wideband that can go as lean as 24:1, and every report I've heard of people trying to use aftermarket O2 sensors with that particular car have resulted in poor drivability and a CEL. I've personally tried two aftermarket downstream sensors and gotten catalyst efficiency codes which didn't exist with the OE sensor.

This is getting into the weeds though.

Honestly the best mod for improving fuel economy is pretty consistently found by adding a very detailed fuel economy gauge front and center to the driver. I'm not sure what kind of instrumentation the Odyssey comes with?
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Old 06-01-2019, 09:54 AM   #18 (permalink)
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The point about having a fuel economy gauge is spot-on! When I began driving in 1958, I began installing vacuum gauges as a poor-man's economy gauge. I still have one in my Jeep, but my other vehicles utilize the OBDII ports for much better information on fuel usage and how to keep it down.
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Old 06-01-2019, 10:13 AM   #19 (permalink)
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Mods to increase power will help you since you have a heavier vehicle.
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Old 06-02-2019, 11:16 AM   #20 (permalink)
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This wife is a problem. Explain that it’s an emotional thing, that she can not only get around it, but feel more confident in driving as well.

Example: one DOES NOT drive a particular speed. One drives to conditions within upper & lower limits. How others around me are doing it isn’t relevant to my responsibilities. . Lesson: show how bad are the other drivers as they are ALWAYS too close to the next vehicle. Even at a stoplight. One should be able to start moving the moment the light changes green even if seven cars back. And one could IF drivers could ALWAYS SEE the pavement between them and that next vehicle.

Thus, the stopping point isn’t the next cars bumper, it’s about twenty feet back. And then a slight roll forward that preserves that space. A full stop is thus necessary quite a ways back. One is rolling only a good ways before that.

One NEVER crosses the real or imputed intersection line when at a stop. In fact, one stops well behind it to avoid being pushed into the intersection by another vehicle (metro area fatalities are of this type).

Another: one is into the right or exit lane a mile or more ahead of last-moment need. Same for left lane turns.

My mother was also hard on brakes. One was either ON throttle or ON brake. The feedback is that as the car approaches cruise (which is NOT the limit, not even a chosen number) one backs down in acceleration rate. Allows the vehicle to ease into those last mph.

Burdened as we’ve become with tens of millions of retarded or just above retarded IQ “citizens” for whom driving safely is past their abilities, driving needs a plan. They cut in with no room, they act as if they have ROW when they don’t, and can’t be expected to follow even the simplest rules.

Never the last moment I HAVE TO GO must be eliminated. Driving has a ceremonial aspect. A visualization of best route. Best time. Etc.
Errands combined. Clean glass, etc. As husband my part is a weekly fillup, wash and inspection. It’s not optional. Same for the service schedule and dealing with those men. Act.

A woman is not naturally at home behind the wheel. That needs context that husband , father, etc, provides. Get her attention by hypothesizing a situation based on current bad habits that kills her beloved Daddy or puts her child in a wheelchair.

When I met my ex she was having a spate of fender-benders and minor tickets. We got that changed. Our son the hotshot military pilot reports that she’s impressive nowadays with a V8 BMW X5 with all the bells. She’s also married to a rich guy into vintage racing. Naturally good she was, but context was missing about start-stop-roll. A plan. And a husband who treated her car and her driving as precious to him.

Instruction HOW to drive is also a monkey skill. My big boat of a 1970s Chrysler was no match for her Lexus. But as I could outdrive her, that got her attention: no braking into a turn. I was accelerating away at an earlier point. Etc.

The “stupid” are generally predictable. Being smarter and being able to use that gets rid of the feeling of being in a trap. Knowing the rules.

Tires and brakes should last 70k, not 35. Major evidence for better operation. From which FE will follow.

There is fun in the acquisition of skill, not just (damned) rules.

A feedback device such as Scangauge is also appropriate.

.

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Last edited by slowmover; 06-02-2019 at 11:25 AM..
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