Go Back   EcoModder Forum > EcoModding > EcoModding Central
Register Now
 Register Now
 

Reply  Post New Thread
 
Submit Tools LinkBack Thread Tools
Old 05-31-2019, 12:25 PM   #11 (permalink)
Master EcoModder
 
mpg_numbers_guy's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2018
Location: VA
Posts: 1,367

Toby - '13 Toyota Prius C
90 day: 61.95 mpg (US)

Daz - '15 Mazda 3 iTouring w/ Tech Package
90 day: 38.2 mpg (US)
Thanks: 323
Thanked 482 Times in 367 Posts
Driving slower and coasting to stops will show the largest FE improvement in a minivan, hands down. Was getting around 30 MPG around town and up to 34 on the highway in the family's 2004 Sienna V6 before it was totaled just by doing that. EPA was like 18 city 25 highway or something like that. I also used cruise control but used the up/down buttons to adjust speed up and down hills to avoid downshifting on the very tall geared transmission.

I'm guessing your Odyssey is a V6? Does it have cylinder deactivation?

__________________
2013 Toyota Prius C 2 (my car)


2015 Mazda 3 iTouring Hatchback w/ Tech Package (wife's car)
  Reply With Quote
Alt Today
Popular topics

Other popular topics in this forum...

   
Old 05-31-2019, 12:28 PM   #12 (permalink)
Redneck Ecomodder
 
Join Date: Feb 2019
Location: North Dakota
Posts: 437
Thanks: 11
Thanked 91 Times in 71 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by mpg_numbers_guy View Post
Driving slower and coasting to stops will show the largest FE improvement in a minivan, hands down. Was getting around 30 MPG around town and up to 34 on the highway in the family's 2004 Sienna V6 before it was totaled just by doing that. EPA was like 18 city 25 highway or something like that. I also used cruise control but used the up/down buttons to adjust speed up and down hills to avoid downshifting on the very tall geared transmission.

I'm guessing your Odyssey is a V6? Does it have cylinder deactivation?
It's a V6, not sure if it has cylinder deactivation or not.

Teaching my wife to drive efficiently would be like teaching a fish to fly. She gripes about the cost of brake pads, but then does the last minute hard stops, no matter how many times I explain that slowing down more gradually will increase their lifespan.
__________________
  Reply With Quote
Old 05-31-2019, 12:45 PM   #13 (permalink)
Master EcoModder
 
mpg_numbers_guy's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2018
Location: VA
Posts: 1,367

Toby - '13 Toyota Prius C
90 day: 61.95 mpg (US)

Daz - '15 Mazda 3 iTouring w/ Tech Package
90 day: 38.2 mpg (US)
Thanks: 323
Thanked 482 Times in 367 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by Shaneajanderson View Post
It's a V6, not sure if it has cylinder deactivation or not.

Teaching my wife to drive efficiently would be like teaching a fish to fly. She gripes about the cost of brake pads, but then does the last minute hard stops, no matter how many times I explain that slowing down more gradually will increase their lifespan.
Just looked it up, and it looks like on the '07 the EX, EX-L, and touring trims have cylinder deactivation, so depending on what trim level you have you may or may not have it. Cylinder deactivation improves cruising economy, but also makes the engine more prone to burning oil as it ages, so it's a bit of a win some lose some situation either way. The newer Odyssey's could get 40-ish MPG when cruising in 3-cylinder mode, so that might help some if you have it in yours.

You could put in some kind of controller that limits the top speed to 65 MPH and prevents the engine from revving past 3000 RPM. (just kidding..)
__________________
2013 Toyota Prius C 2 (my car)


2015 Mazda 3 iTouring Hatchback w/ Tech Package (wife's car)
  Reply With Quote
Old 05-31-2019, 01:46 PM   #14 (permalink)
Redneck Ecomodder
 
Join Date: Feb 2019
Location: North Dakota
Posts: 437
Thanks: 11
Thanked 91 Times in 71 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by mpg_numbers_guy View Post
Just looked it up, and it looks like on the '07 the EX, EX-L, and touring trims have cylinder deactivation, so depending on what trim level you have you may or may not have it. Cylinder deactivation improves cruising economy, but also makes the engine more prone to burning oil as it ages, so it's a bit of a win some lose some situation either way. The newer Odyssey's could get 40-ish MPG when cruising in 3-cylinder mode, so that might help some if you have it in yours.

You could put in some kind of controller that limits the top speed to 65 MPH and prevents the engine from revving past 3000 RPM. (just kidding..)
I'm wrench savvy, not tech savvy, otherwise I might. The van will hit 90mph without you noticing and she usually sets the cruise at 85. I'll look into that cylinder deactivation some more, maybe it'll kick in if I get her to slow down a little.

Everything else I own leaks oil, so I'm in the habit or checking it often anyway, so that's not an issue to me.
__________________
  Reply With Quote
Old 05-31-2019, 03:34 PM   #15 (permalink)
EcoModding flying lizard
 
Daschicken's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2012
Location: Georgia
Posts: 743

Cibbie - '88 Honda CBR 250R
Motorcycle
90 day: 48.49 mpg (US)

Rarity - '06 Honda Accord EX V6
Team Honda
90 day: 29.88 mpg (US)

Baby viff - '86 Honda VFR 400R
Motorcycle
90 day: 42.15 mpg (US)

Latios - '08 Suzuki SV650SF
Motorcycle
90 day: 64.56 mpg (US)

Mazda 3 - '14 Mazda 3 i Sport
90 day: 43.25 mpg (US)
Thanks: 618
Thanked 261 Times in 174 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by Shaneajanderson View Post
O2 sensor for my odyssey is like $20. The downstream O2 sensor exists only to see if the catalytic converter is working, so actually it will throw a code if the two agree, which would indicate a catalyst failure
Be wary of super cheap sensors. They might as well be a plug. My dad bought a sub $10 knock sensor for his S2000, threw a check engine light immediately. The proper working sensor was in the $90-130 range if I remember correctly. Buy once, cry once.

Also, check out this thread on modding a Honda Pilot for some ideas.

https://ecomodder.com/forum/showthre...epa-27437.html
__________________
-Kaze o tatakaimasen-

Best trip in V6: 52.0
Best tank in V6: 46.0
Best tank in Mazda: 49.9
Best tank in CBR: 61.3
Best tank in SV: 83.9

Quote:
Originally Posted by MetroMPG View Post
You can lead a fashion-conscious horse to unusual-looking water...

  Reply With Quote
Old 05-31-2019, 03:42 PM   #16 (permalink)
Redneck Ecomodder
 
Join Date: Feb 2019
Location: North Dakota
Posts: 437
Thanks: 11
Thanked 91 Times in 71 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by Daschicken View Post
Be wary of super cheap sensors. They might as well be a plug. My dad bought a sub $10 knock sensor for his S2000, threw a check engine light immediately. The proper working sensor was in the $90-130 range if I remember correctly. Buy once, cry once.

Also, check out this thread on modding a Honda Pilot for some ideas.

https://ecomodder.com/forum/showthre...epa-27437.html
Thanks for the link, I'll check it out.

$20 gave me my choice of a few brands, including Denso, on rockauto. I'm sure the Toyota part would be ridiculous but I seldom buy OE branded parts, and I've never regretted it.
__________________
  Reply With Quote
Old 05-31-2019, 04:37 PM   #17 (permalink)
Master EcoModder
 
Ecky's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2011
Location: New Zealand
Posts: 5,016

ND Miata - '15 Mazda MX-5 Special Package
90 day: 40.51 mpg (US)
Thanks: 2,869
Thanked 2,514 Times in 1,554 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by Shaneajanderson View Post
Thanks for the link, I'll check it out.

$20 gave me my choice of a few brands, including Denso, on rockauto. I'm sure the Toyota part would be ridiculous but I seldom buy OE branded parts, and I've never regretted it.
The Insight uses a special wideband that can go as lean as 24:1, and every report I've heard of people trying to use aftermarket O2 sensors with that particular car have resulted in poor drivability and a CEL. I've personally tried two aftermarket downstream sensors and gotten catalyst efficiency codes which didn't exist with the OE sensor.

This is getting into the weeds though.

Honestly the best mod for improving fuel economy is pretty consistently found by adding a very detailed fuel economy gauge front and center to the driver. I'm not sure what kind of instrumentation the Odyssey comes with?
  Reply With Quote
Old 06-01-2019, 09:54 AM   #18 (permalink)
Master EcoModder
 
Join Date: Jul 2015
Location: Louisiana
Posts: 360
Thanks: 275
Thanked 132 Times in 102 Posts
The point about having a fuel economy gauge is spot-on! When I began driving in 1958, I began installing vacuum gauges as a poor-man's economy gauge. I still have one in my Jeep, but my other vehicles utilize the OBDII ports for much better information on fuel usage and how to keep it down.
__________________
  Reply With Quote
Old 06-01-2019, 10:13 AM   #19 (permalink)
Master EcoModder
 
Join Date: Aug 2018
Location: USA
Posts: 455

Jeep - '97 Jeep Cherokee Sport
90 day: 19.36 mpg (US)

Blueberry - '07 Toyota Camry SE
Thanks: 180
Thanked 101 Times in 77 Posts
Mods to increase power will help you since you have a heavier vehicle.
  Reply With Quote
Old 06-02-2019, 11:16 AM   #20 (permalink)
Banned
 
Join Date: Oct 2009
Location: Fort Worth, Texas
Posts: 2,442

2004 CTD - '04 DODGE RAM 2500 SLT
Team Cummins
90 day: 19.36 mpg (US)
Thanks: 1,422
Thanked 737 Times in 557 Posts
This wife is a problem. Explain that it’s an emotional thing, that she can not only get around it, but feel more confident in driving as well.

Example: one DOES NOT drive a particular speed. One drives to conditions within upper & lower limits. How others around me are doing it isn’t relevant to my responsibilities. . Lesson: show how bad are the other drivers as they are ALWAYS too close to the next vehicle. Even at a stoplight. One should be able to start moving the moment the light changes green even if seven cars back. And one could IF drivers could ALWAYS SEE the pavement between them and that next vehicle.

Thus, the stopping point isn’t the next cars bumper, it’s about twenty feet back. And then a slight roll forward that preserves that space. A full stop is thus necessary quite a ways back. One is rolling only a good ways before that.

One NEVER crosses the real or imputed intersection line when at a stop. In fact, one stops well behind it to avoid being pushed into the intersection by another vehicle (metro area fatalities are of this type).

Another: one is into the right or exit lane a mile or more ahead of last-moment need. Same for left lane turns.

My mother was also hard on brakes. One was either ON throttle or ON brake. The feedback is that as the car approaches cruise (which is NOT the limit, not even a chosen number) one backs down in acceleration rate. Allows the vehicle to ease into those last mph.

Burdened as we’ve become with tens of millions of retarded or just above retarded IQ “citizens” for whom driving safely is past their abilities, driving needs a plan. They cut in with no room, they act as if they have ROW when they don’t, and can’t be expected to follow even the simplest rules.

Never the last moment I HAVE TO GO must be eliminated. Driving has a ceremonial aspect. A visualization of best route. Best time. Etc.
Errands combined. Clean glass, etc. As husband my part is a weekly fillup, wash and inspection. It’s not optional. Same for the service schedule and dealing with those men. Act.

A woman is not naturally at home behind the wheel. That needs context that husband , father, etc, provides. Get her attention by hypothesizing a situation based on current bad habits that kills her beloved Daddy or puts her child in a wheelchair.

When I met my ex she was having a spate of fender-benders and minor tickets. We got that changed. Our son the hotshot military pilot reports that she’s impressive nowadays with a V8 BMW X5 with all the bells. She’s also married to a rich guy into vintage racing. Naturally good she was, but context was missing about start-stop-roll. A plan. And a husband who treated her car and her driving as precious to him.

Instruction HOW to drive is also a monkey skill. My big boat of a 1970s Chrysler was no match for her Lexus. But as I could outdrive her, that got her attention: no braking into a turn. I was accelerating away at an earlier point. Etc.

The “stupid” are generally predictable. Being smarter and being able to use that gets rid of the feeling of being in a trap. Knowing the rules.

Tires and brakes should last 70k, not 35. Major evidence for better operation. From which FE will follow.

There is fun in the acquisition of skill, not just (damned) rules.

A feedback device such as Scangauge is also appropriate.

.


Last edited by slowmover; 06-02-2019 at 11:25 AM..
  Reply With Quote
Reply  Post New Thread






Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.11
Copyright ©2000 - 2024, vBulletin Solutions Inc.
Content Relevant URLs by vBSEO 3.5.2
All content copyright EcoModder.com