Electric car conversion: Project ForkenSwift

[Intrigued]

Although I'm no expert, as I understand it, higher voltages are more efficient. No telling how things will really work out, though...

340 amps puts the voltage below 5.25, huh? Nothing like Peukert effect and shorter life at the same time, eh?

Will it do any burnouts in gravel now???

[MetroMPG]

Why, yes. Yes it will do burnouts in gravel. Nothing like Ben's, but I did try it.

[MetroMPG]

Received this question by e-mail:

Hi Darin - What did you use for the coupling from the motor to the transmission input shaft? I was thinking about a Lovejoy coupling, but not sure if that's the best way to go.

The car uses a customized Lovejoy coupler (customized because the motor has an internal female splined shaft; welded a male stub shaft to the lovejoy on the motor side; welded the clutch hub on the transmission side of the coupler to slip on to the input shaft).

You can see pics here: http://ecomodder.com/forum/hreshowth...3-post490.html

Did you end up using the controller that came with the forklift, or was this something that you added afterward. I hear what you are saying about the speed of the motor at lower voltages (like 48 volts) and was wondering if the stock controller that came with the lift would handle 72 or 96 volts?

The forklift's original SCR type controller wasn't really the best match for a small battery pack. See this post for an explanation of why (which I'm just parrotting from smarter people)

PWM mosfet based ones are better. The car has had three progressively more powerful 48v Curtis golf cart controllers in it, starting with a 225A one, then 300, and now 400.

The forklift controller was also limited to 48v. Its only redeeming feature was a built-in bypass that would have automatically handled a direct motor/battery connection for high load demands.

[MPaulHolmes]

Originally Posted by MetroMPG

PWM mosfet based ones are better. The car has had three progressively more powerful 48v Curtis golf cart controllers in it, starting with a 225A one, then 300, and now 400.

Stay calm, Paul...

[mamodbasher]

The forklift controller was also limited to 48v. Its only redeeming feature was a built-in bypass that would have automatically handled a direct motor/battery connection for high load demands.[/QUOTE]

That's interesting information, and useful as well. The fellow that has my forklift parts has it apart today and I go to pick up all the bits on Saturday (May 16/09). He tells me that the drive motor is about 15" in diameter (ouch!), but the pump motor is about 11" - better in an Escort likely. I will have to get some good pics of the motors when I pick them up and post them here. Both GE units, and the part that I really want to have a good look at is the controller. It's a GE unit as well, but nothing like the EV-1 at all. It is all housed in a nice finned aluminum housing with the GE 'meatball' cast into it in the corner. He says he can get me a schematic or at least a wiring diagram for it (I hope that's true). He seems as hyped as I am about this EV conversion.

Next question - as for batteries, I was looking at possibly using Trojan deep cycle 6V gels. They are about $200 each (the standard LA Trojans are $115). They seem to have the same or slightly better rating at the 20 hour rate and would require no maintenance. That would make it easier to suff them in the back without having to worry about water top-up and ventilation. Any thoughts on that madness? Ken.

[MetroMPG]

I picked up a pedestrian alert device for the car today:



I'm going to mount it up front just behind the hood/bumper gap and connect it with some sheathed bicycle brake cable to the unused temperature slider on the dash.

Ding ding!

[MetroMPG]

Originally Posted by mamodbasher

Next question - as for batteries, I was looking at possibly using Trojan deep cycle 6V gels. They are about $200 each (the standard LA Trojans are $115). They seem to have the same or slightly better rating at the 20 hour rate and would require no maintenance. That would make it easier to suff them in the back without having to worry about water top-up and ventilation. Any thoughts on that madness? Ken.

Sounds reasonable to me. The answer to what kind of battery to use seems to be: what kind of money do you have to spend?

Most people who use gel batteries seem to go with Optimas, but I'm no expert on the brands. I think you can search the EV Album for battery type - might be worth looking around there for more info.

EV Photo Album: Our Electric Cars on the Web

[Intrigued]

Originally Posted by MetroMPG

I picked up a pedestrian alert device for the car today:... Ding ding!

Pedestrian alert device...LOL!

Didn't we see a video back a year ago or so, where you were driving through town, and you used a bell or something to alert a guy who almost stepped out in front of you?

...or was that Ben...???

[mamodbasher]

[QUOTE=MetroMPG;104376]Sounds reasonable to me. The answer to what kind of battery to use seems to be: what kind of money do you have to spend?

Most people who use gel batteries seem to go with Optimas, but I'm no expert on the brands. I think you can search the EV Album for battery type - might be worth looking around there for more info.


Thanks for the reply. I am also not an expert on batteries either, and that's why I sought some input form those who know. It just seemed to me that if I am putting batteries in the vehicle, keeping them low (like under the back seat) made some sense by maintaining a lower centre of gravity. The problem was that it made it difficult to get at them for watering. If I used a good gel - as long as it will work properly - it made more sense to put out a few more $$ to keep the installation tidy and not worry about the off-gassing issue. I use gels now in my solar power system at home and they have been performing very well now for over 2 years. The home system does not make huge current demands on the batteries like an EV would, so I just wanted to make sure that they would stand up to the test. These Trojans seem to be the ticket, at least from the specs. The fellow who I dealt with at the battery place seemed to be convinced that these were perfect for the application, as long as I wasn't worried about the extra bucks. I will just cheap-out somewhere else on the vehicle (like paint) and spend the added dollars on the fuel tank

[MetroMPG]

Originally Posted by mamodbasher

if I am putting batteries in the vehicle, keeping them low (like under the back seat) made some sense by maintaining a lower centre of gravity.

Definitely worth considering. This car has gel batteries installed in the floor (including under the front seats) for just that reason: (and also for aesthetics - to keep batts out of the motor compartment)

Roger Stockton's 1987 Suzuki Forsa



(Note: Optimas. )

I will just cheap-out somewhere else on the vehicle (like paint) and spend the added dollars on the fuel tank

Wise words.