Electric car conversion: Project ForkenSwift

[MetroMPG]

1) I run the blower fan on low on the front defrost setting. Even without heat, it at least keeps my breath off the windshield.

2) I almost always have a window or two cracked open, even when it's -15C / 5F. Needless to say, I'm always dressed warmly when I drive the ForkenSwift in the winter.

3) I park strategically in the sun to defrost selected windows if they ever do start to get coated

The only time it's really a problem is when I take my nephews snowboarding at the park. Afterwards, 3 of us piling back into the car means all windows open or things frost up inside pretty quick.

The reason I can tolerate all this nonsense is because the longest one-way trip the car typically makes in the winter is about 6 km / 4 mi.

Basically all the snow / moisture I bring into the car on my boots stays in the floor mat until I shake it out .... or spring comes.

[MetroMPG]

Someone asked me:

Hi I have several questions about doing a Metro EV conversion that I was hoping you could answer. Is the ecu and wiring harness needed to do the conversion?

I'm not 100% sure about the ECU. I don't know what other systems (besides the engine) it deals with. If it's strictly a PCM (powertrain control module), then no you don't need it or the engine wiring harness.

[MetroMPG]

Cross-posted from ... http://ecomodder.com/forum/showthrea...ble-12660.html

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First two efficiency mods of 2010 to the ForkenSwift happened this week, courtesy of the Firefly convertible project (which itself is sitting patiently, gathering dust in the garage).

Included in that project was a set of four 155/80/13 tires on rims. Ugly, rusty rims. Old tires.

They've been on the ForkenSwift 3 days now, and it's easy to tell that they roll much, much better than the snows that have been on the car since day one. Not surprising, really: I already knew the snows were bad. And the rubber on these 155's is probably rock hard! (Not to mention weatherchecked enough that I turned away as I was airing them up to ... somewhere north of the max sidewall figure. Just in case.)

Then I stole the relatively smooth wheel covers from the 'vert and stuck them on the ForkenSwift too, to hide the rusty rims. And improve aero.

[MetroMPG]

I put the winter tires back on the car for this past weekend's EV Expo in Ottawa (because the rims look the nicest of the 2 sets), and can report the skinny tires I had on the car prior to that felt like they rolled much easier AND rode smoother.

And today I finally got around (I should say REMEMBERED) to fix the lovejoy coupler that was sliding apart!

Remember this post back in December?

Originally Posted by MetroMPG

Discovered that the Lovejoy coupler halves were sliding away from one another. Seemed to have separated leaving about 50% contact between them! Maybe they're rattling a little bit. Good thing this car doesn't have much power.

Fortunately this was easy to see, since we purposely cut an inspection window in the transmission bell housing for the very reason of being able to check on the coupler:

Well, the halves had slid much more than 50 % apart!




Pretty bad that I left it that long. Pretty amazing that it hadn't come apart or damaged the "spider" between the two jaws. Probably because the car doesn't have much power (plus I always try to be smooth with the power it has).

Anyway, 10 minutes later, fixed. Just released the set screw, slid it back in place, and re-tightened the screw as hard as I could.

[MPaulHolmes]

I did a little electrical tape. A couple loops around (not the circular way) so that they were sandwiched together, and they have never come loose in almost 2 years. I also added a bit of "carmalization" to the end of the tape with some gorilla glue so the tape won't gradually unpeel. Since there's no real pressure pulling them apart, it doesn't have to be much.

[bennelson]

I had a similar experience with my LoveJoy coupler.

Also, one half of it was a knock-off brand name, and the metal in that half wasn't as good.

As the halves slid apart, it makes more wear near the ends, which, in my case, lead to the eventual failure of the coupler. (I also think part of the issue on mine was a mis-alignment on installation. I had to bench-press the motor in place with one arm, and tighten the bolts to the transmission with the other...)

Later, the solid coupler replaced the spider coupler. Since the solid coupler isn't a tube, (it has a solid bit in the center between the two shafts) it doesn't need any set screws that can work their way loose.

I think that LoveJoy couplers can work just fine on EVs, but you do need to check the set-screws and make sure the coupler halves aren't slowly working their was apart.

[MetroMPG]

Good idea, Paul - thanks. I was thinking I could also just put a piece of hose or something over the rest of the input shaft to prevent that half of the coupler from sliding again.

Either way, I'll have to take the motor off to do it. I may be doing that in the fall to do a bit more rust repair in the engine compartment, so until then I'll just keep an eye on it.

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Funny story... here's how spiffy the car looks following its annual EV Expo spit 'n' polish: some guy asked me tonight if I'd gotten the car from "that guy who re-does Metros". Apparently he saw a TV news report about someone in Ottawa who fixes up and sells Metros. Has done something like 41 of them. I went looking for details but struck out.

[MetroMPG]

I'm showing the car again on Sunday morning. A friend has been bugging me for a couple of years to give a presentation about EM and the ForkenSwift at his weekly "breakfast club" - bunch of guys who get together to discuss a different topic each week over pancakes, bacon, eggs & fresh fruit.

I told him: with the recent spit 'n' polish, now's the time to do it.

It's a 30 km trip each way to the meeting on secondary roads, which will tax the limit of the car's range (went 30-35 km a few times last year on a single charge, but the batteries are a year older now!). This friend lives along the route, so I'll stop for a half hour gulp of electrons on the way, and then plug in for the duration of the meeting/exhibition (maybe 2 hrs).

That'll be enough to drive back to friend's house where I'll park the car for a full recharge and bike the rest of the way home. (Come back and fetch the car later.)

Who said EV's aren't practical!?

[Daox]

I thought your charger was rather... large? Just throw it in the trunk?

[MetroMPG]

Nah - the charger's not too big. The one you're thinking of was the surplus forklift charger that's in one of our first videos.

Since then, an engineer at Delta-Q (makes chargers) donated us a proper, rebuilt 48v smart charger. It's about the size of 2 hefty textbooks.

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New build progress!

I installed the DC-DC converter. Before sticking it on the component board (component plexiglass?) today, it was duct taped in place. Don't get me wrong: it was securely attached, just ugly.

But I guess I got tired of un-duct taping it and removing the wires in order to show the car, then putting it back on after.

Prompted by the fact that I need to actually drive the car to tomorrow's exhibition

Planned installation:



Installed:



FYI, this is a 100 watt unit. It just does the job. Though the 12v battery will discharge slowly if I have to use the headlights and the wipers

If we keep the car, I'd like to put the components in a nice shiny metal box with a lid eventually. The plexi is cracked in a few spots from overtightening screws/bolts.