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Old 07-03-2008, 08:17 PM   #101 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by chrisp68 View Post
Ben,
Do you know of a good web site for new or used motorcycle parts?
I don't know the first thing about motorcycles.

I did buy a used brake rotor and caliper through

Keith at Boulder Bike Works
( Boulder Bike Works Motorcycle Salvage
Longmont, Colorado - 1-888-448-8656)

Maybe you could talk to him and say how all they electric motorcycle people say he's the guy to go to!

There was a local motorcycle place that closed up shop right as I was starting my project. I bought a helmet, speedometer cable, and tires (still not installed!) in their going out of business sale!

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Old 07-03-2008, 08:25 PM   #102 (permalink)
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Does anyone have suggestions for installing my new volt-meter?

It is an analog needle design. I assume that it will use a very small amount of current to move the needle with electromagnatism.

I am planning on just hooking it up to one of the four batteries, as it is designed for 12-volt use.

Should I have some sort of "momentary-on" switch for it, so it only pulls power just when I need it, or will it take so little power that it doesn't matter at all? I just don't want my batteries getting out of balance. I would imagine it takes a miniscule amount of power, but want to make sure I am doing things right here.

I also realized that I will not be able to hook it up with the standard negative to the frame. I am measuring main pack voltage, something I DON'T want going through the frame of the cycle. I will need to use two wires, going directly to the one battery I want to measure.

My existing wire harness is totally home-brew (and looks it) but uses TWO wires for each device, thus totally seperating the power from the frame.

I am thinking about re-doing the wire harness, now that I know what wires I need going where. I think now, there isn't any good reason not to use the frame as the negative. This will eliminate half the wires in that's rats nest. Also, it will be a good opportunity to make sure I actually have fuses on everything....
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Old 07-06-2008, 09:34 PM   #103 (permalink)
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Did a little work on the cycle today.

I installed a plexiglass chain guard to keep my shoelaces out of the motor sprocket.



I also replaced the original headlight with a halogen. It is slightly more efficient that the original and brighter too. However, it's not the exact same size, so I just popped it in there and pinned it in with electrical tape.


The old light is in my hand, and the new one is hanging in the headlight bucket.



I also installed the volt meter to run off one of the batteries. I installed a switch on top of the project box to turn it on and off.
It also dips when I accelerate, so it works as a very primative amp-meter too. (didn't take a photo of it though...I'll get one later.)

Actually, you can see the switch for the volt meter above the headlamp in the last photo.
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Old 07-08-2008, 12:06 AM   #104 (permalink)
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I've been tempted to sand off some of the reflectiveness of the back side of the head light on my bike so I could epoxy in an LED or two to give me day time running lights, seeing as how motorcycles are required to have them and if you used a white and a yellow then it would give it a stock looking color and should be bright enough to be noticed.
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Old 07-08-2008, 08:35 AM   #105 (permalink)
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Electro-Metro - '96 Ben Nelson's "Electro-Metro"
90 day: 129.81 mpg (US)

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I think daytime running lights are a good idea in general.

In my old car (without running lights) I just always turned the headlights on whenever I was driving.

I have heard a motorcyclist complain about cars having daytime running lights. He said that motorcycles were more noticeable when cycles had their lights on during the day, and cars didn't.
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Old 07-08-2008, 10:03 AM   #106 (permalink)
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Plexiglass shoelace guard? Story to tell, hmmm?
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Old 07-08-2008, 01:49 PM   #107 (permalink)
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Electric Cycle - '81 Kawasaki KZ440
90 day: 334.6 mpg (US)

S10 - '95 Chevy S10
90 day: 30.48 mpg (US)

Electro-Metro - '96 Ben Nelson's "Electro-Metro"
90 day: 129.81 mpg (US)

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Quote:
Originally Posted by MetroMPG View Post
Plexiglass shoelace guard? Story to tell, hmmm?
Sorry to disappoint, but there is no shoelace story. I am trying to keep one form happening.

When I was first working on the cycle, I hooked up the wheel to the chain to the motor (no batteries or power or anything yet). While adjusting the chain, I pinched my finger between the chain and front sprocket.

Hurt like heck! I do not want to imagine what a 20 HP peak electric motor would do to shoelaces, boots, toes, or anything else.

Safety first, right!?
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Old 07-08-2008, 05:06 PM   #108 (permalink)
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Electric Cycle - '81 Kawasaki KZ440
90 day: 334.6 mpg (US)

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90 day: 30.48 mpg (US)

Electro-Metro - '96 Ben Nelson's "Electro-Metro"
90 day: 129.81 mpg (US)

The Wife's Car - Plug-in Prius - '04 Toyota Prius
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Went to my part-time job today, ten miles away.

Starting voltage was 13.1 (per 12 volt battery)

I rode 10 miles out, and plugged the cycle's on-board charger into the outside of the hairstylist's building next-door to where I work. (It's ok, the place was closed and I get my hair cut there sometimes.) Voltage when I arrived was 12.6

I put .5 KWh (about 100 watts, for about 5 hours) into the battery pack.
Voltage when I left was 13.

Drove home and ran errands. Smoked my rear brake cable, but that's another thread (Check out "I am good at destroying electric motorcycles").
Voltage when I got home was only 12.1, not sure how much of that was used in resistance heating......

Total trip for the day was 25.2 miles.
About 1 gallon of gas in a car.
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Old 07-11-2008, 11:54 PM   #109 (permalink)
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Hey Ben,

Does the Ninja conversion book help at all? does it go into detail or is it just so/so information that you can get for free from asking around?

I saw one for about 50 bucks, how much did u get yours for?

I am new at this too and I have very little mechanical experience.

Also I am looking for a bike to convert. I have found some good ones where it is not working/ or someone didn't finish fixing it. What parts so you need for the electric conversion? I know you don't need the gas tank or the engine. And I know the frame and lights and tires and spokes need to be in working order. But what else do you need and what don't you need? This is so I can find a bike at a cheap price but not be stuck without having something essential. Thanks!
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Old 07-13-2008, 08:31 PM   #110 (permalink)
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90 day: 30.48 mpg (US)

Electro-Metro - '96 Ben Nelson's "Electro-Metro"
90 day: 129.81 mpg (US)

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Quote:
Originally Posted by coolfez View Post
Hey Ben,

Does the Ninja conversion book help at all?

What parts so you need for the electric conversion?
SECRETS OF EL-NINJA is a pretty good book. With it, anyone can convert a cycle to electric. Most of the information in it is available through the internet, the library, and just talking to people, but that book has it all together and is a great reference.

For a cycle, make sure everything on it works other than the engine, transmission, gas tank, exhaust pipes and mufflers. You will need everything else! If something else is missing or doesn't work, you WILL have to fix or replace it!!!

I bought my frame for $100, but looking back on it, I rather would have paid $500 for something that looked a little nicer and had everything on it working right!

Hope that helps!

-Ben


PS - The web site of the Author of Secrets of El Ninja is http://www.21wheels.com/
If you order through there, the author will get a little more money than he would otherwise.

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Last edited by bennelson; 07-13-2008 at 09:28 PM..
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