Electric Water Pumps

[guudasitgets]

ATayloracing We did that in road racing, ground off two of the for blades off the impeller, then they came out with underdrive tooth belt pulleys

Intrigued; Why are belt drive pumps a problem? Simplist thing on earth and they never slip and you can get all sorts of ratios in pulleys for them. Look at the Cosworth 4 cylinder BDA in the pic, click on it and you will see the small belt drive I'm refering to.

[Coyote X]

Robot MarketPlace - Timing Pulleys

something like this?

[guudasitgets]

Coyote; see the pic in previous post

[Christ]

Originally Posted by guudasitgets

Coyote; see the pic in previous post

Is that an OEM (OEM style) water pump that's just had the pulley removed?

I remember on Honda's t-belt water pumps, the pulley is mushroom-style... you could remove the pulley, but you'd still have to adjust the angle of the t-belt to go around the housing, b/c of the relative contact between the belt and the pulley, which is why I mentioned using idlers to prevent the belt from contacting the housing of the water pump.

guud - is that the setup you were referring to in the posts about race teams using them? I like that one, personally. Is there any way you could get a straight on shot of that engine, to detail the drive?

[Christ]

Originally Posted by Intrigued

If a person changed to a manual steering box, one or two deep-cycle batteries to enable stripping the alternator, and just bite the bullet on air conditioning (balance out the weight of the extra battery?), then the water pump would be the only thing left to go completely beltless!

In most smaller cars, i.e. My Civic, you can just re-route the lines to circulate the fluid from one side of the piston to the other, and it won't be any different to steer.. I ran a PS rack without the PS pump on that car for a year, and when I got the manual rack installed, I was pissed b/c it made no discernable difference.

[guudasitgets]

Christ; there is no need for an idler, on the crank pulley (kinda hard to see) there are flat plate crimped on the sides of the crank pulley. Yes thats a plain old stock ford water pump with the flange pressed off and the timing belt pulley heat pressed on, and you could do this to just about any water pump.

[guudasitgets]

I'll look for pic of the pump drive, Can't take one of the car I work on, it's buried with Dry-Sump oil lines around it.

[Christ]

guud - this image is a honda B-series engine, which is basically how they're all set up for external appearance. You can see the water pump here, which is above and to the right of the crank pulley/cog. The intake cam would be directly above the water pump if the head were installed.



That angle between the three components is why I asked about using an idler to keep the belt away from the water pump housing after taking the water pump's pulley off.

I can see on your Cossie that it's not necessary.

This image shows the relation between the intake cam and the water pump's pulley.



The lump in the timing cover to the extreme right is the water pump's relief.

[Christ]

Looking at it, it would almost be better to deflect the belt to the inside of the water pump's housing... you'd get more positive contact area on the crank pulley and the intake cam as a result. It may also just slightly clear without modifying anything... I don't know that the tensioner would take that much slack though... the person doing this might have to use a smaller timing belt. (Not hard to do with Honda engines, dunno about others.)

[guudasitgets]

Use a longer belt and an idler on the waterpump side that should be the loose side of the belt. Then a sleeve to extend the pump shaft away from the timing belt. Boy I can see why racers don't put those hondas in formula cars, what a pain in the AXX