View Poll Results: What engine for a 1990 CRX?
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Re-build the stock engine yourself.
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1 |
11.11% |
Pay someone to rebuild the stock engine.
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1 |
11.11% |
Swap an HF drivetrain in.
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0% |
Later D16Z6 engine.
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1 |
11.11% |
Swap in the lean-burn HX engine.
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6 |
66.67% |
B-16 swap; 160 HP and 111 lb-ft of torque.
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0% |
B18A (Integra LS) swap; 130-140 HP and good torque; taller gearing.
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0% |
Integra GSR (B18C) motor, bec ause 180+ HP and short gearing is good.
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0% |
06-17-2011, 08:35 PM
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#1 (permalink)
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Master EcoModder
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Engine options for a CRX
The Used Oil Analysis for my CRX came back with bad news. Some lead, like last time, but more of it. Plus copper, which is probably from the backing of the bearings. Which means I need to fix or replace the engine relatively soon.
Since it's a 1990 CRX, I have about a zillion options for what I can do. Some swaps (like those from a car earlier than 1990) are out, but that still leaves most of the D- and B-series engines as swap candidates. Or, of course, I could try to rebuild the stock engine myself.
Simpler swaps are better in general than complex ones, but there are certainly interesting possibilities that are complex.
So, what would you do if it was you?
[Trying to set up a poll.]
-soD
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Today
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Other popular topics in this forum...
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06-17-2011, 09:21 PM
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#2 (permalink)
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EcoModding Lurker
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would you please elaborate on your used oil analysis for those of us that don't know?
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06-17-2011, 09:23 PM
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#3 (permalink)
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EcoModding Lurker
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I can't belive I got the first vote, I'm reminded of he that is without sin cast the first stone.
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06-17-2011, 10:18 PM
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#4 (permalink)
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Diesel Addict/No Cure
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Go lean burn.................with a intercooled turbo!
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Volvo WIA42 VED-12 / 335 hp / 1300 ft/lbs / 9 mpg
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06-17-2011, 10:18 PM
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#5 (permalink)
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EcoModding Lurker
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What about an electric conversion?
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06-17-2011, 11:30 PM
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#6 (permalink)
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Moderate your Moderation.
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Pasta - '96 Volkswagen Passat TDi 90 day: 45.22 mpg (US)
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Diesel. A mechanical injection diesel will be a really easy swap, you just have to male an engine mount and adapter plate.
If you use a vw engine, you need a rwd/scirocco clutch set/flywheel, and you stick the civic friction disc between them.
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06-18-2011, 01:05 AM
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#7 (permalink)
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If it ain't knocking or smoking, take care of it and keep running it. It might go for a long time yet.
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06-18-2011, 12:21 PM
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#8 (permalink)
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Enthusiast
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Quote:
Originally Posted by some_other_dave
The Used Oil Analysis for my CRX came back with bad news. Some lead, like last time, but more of it. Plus copper, which is probably from the backing of the bearings. Which means I need to fix or replace the engine relatively soon.
Since it's a 1990 CRX, I have about a zillion options for what I can do. Some swaps (like those from a car earlier than 1990) are out, but that still leaves most of the D- and B-series engines as swap candidates. Or, of course, I could try to rebuild the stock engine myself.
Simpler swaps are better in general than complex ones, but there are certainly interesting possibilities that are complex.
So, what would you do if it was you?
[Trying to set up a poll.]
-soD
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Z6 is the cheapest to build and easiest to swap. The car will stay light and efficient and be relatively powerful.
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06-19-2011, 01:33 AM
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#9 (permalink)
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Master EcoModder
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Quote:
Originally Posted by backyard engineer
would you please elaborate on your used oil analysis for those of us that don't know?
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On my last several oil changes, I sent the oil (and a check) to the folks at Blackstone Labs. The "comments" section came back as follows:
Quote:
We're not sure how long this oil run was, but the level of wear here is cautionary. Copper and lead are worrisome. Both metals are from the bearings, and typically lead is from the Babbitt coating on the bearings. The fact that you're getting copper may indicate that the Babbitt is worn through. Also note an increased level of upper-end wear (aluminum from pistons and chrome from rings). Iron is from steel parts. This engine may well have a problem. Silicon could be dirt, and that might be causing wear. A trace of fuel is okay. TBN=2.2.
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The "TBN" number is a measurement of how effective or how worn-out the additive package still is.
To give you some idea of how much wear they're showing, the iron levels are 40 times the average for all oil samples. The lead is 12 times the average. The copper is 3 times the average. Chromium is 4 times the average. The levels of all are up quite noticeably from the previous oil changes, as well. (4x as much iron, for example.)
I don't think a diesel swap is in the cards for MB. I'm just not competent to do that much work myself, and I can't think of a shop locally that would try it. Electric swaps are out of the question because I simply do not have a place to plug in! My wife's car gets the garage, and there are no outlets close enough to the street for me to access.
So far, people seem to like the notion of putting a lean-burn engine in and finding a way to make it work. I figured that would be the most popular answer around here.
-soD
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