07-08-2012, 03:30 PM
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#11 (permalink)
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Master EcoModder
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I use it in my F350 in conjunction with a 203 degree thermostat.
Tried the "zero pressure" cap but it made the truck smell like glycol, so I went back to the regular cap.
If you thoroughly dry out the system it will never corrode (from the inside at least).
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2000 Ford F-350 SC 4x2 6 Speed Manual
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Rubber Conveyor Belt Air Dam
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07-10-2012, 12:01 AM
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#12 (permalink)
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Banned
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I have been intrigued by this for years . . and besides cost of conversion, am still concerned by running an engine that hot that isn't designed for it (gaskets, etc). One can peruse the big truck boards and come across unhappy owners (to say the least), but the commentary is limited, overall.
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04-13-2019, 04:44 AM
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#13 (permalink)
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Master EcoModder
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I just had my grandmas car engine fail because of corrosion. Got it fixed, but this has me concearned about other vehicles in the family.
Are there any updates to this evans coolant business? Or just running pure glycol.
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04-14-2019, 01:59 PM
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#14 (permalink)
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EcoModding Lurker
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The general consensus is that the stuff does wonders for high horsepower hot rods that like to boil over during stop and go, low speed cruising. These owners usually have upgraded radiators and electric cooling fans to assist the air side heat exchange. Due to the increased viscosity and boiling point of the Evans coolant, some owners remove the thermostat altogether.
Other fanatic supporters with moderate horsepower machines run a high flow thermostat to assist with the cabin heater core operation in cold season driving. As far as maximum coolant temperature, the stuff runs a few degrees warmer than stock coolant, due to a few factors. The Evans coolant has a lower specific heat than stock, so as a drop in replacement, the Evans has to be a little warmer to move the same amount of heat. Also, since there's no boiling going on at the exhaust valve or piston wall areas, the heat transfer is actually higher than stock. Both of these factors contribute to higher coolant temperature readings at the sensors.
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04-14-2019, 05:46 PM
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#15 (permalink)
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Master EcoModder
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How does one DIY it?
Normal antifreeze with proplyene glycol instead of water?
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04-15-2019, 01:50 AM
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#16 (permalink)
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EcoModding Lurker
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Quote:
Originally Posted by teoman
How does one DIY it?
Normal antifreeze with proplyene glycol instead of water?
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From the information gathered, it looks like the coolant is about 70 percent ethylene glycol and 30 percent propylene glycol. The manufacturer says there can be up to 3 percent water content before the boiling point drops.
I would probably use the manufactured product myself. Besides the whole warranty factor, it seems like they provide lots of free tech support and advice to those who ask nicely. If the vehicle had anything strange going on after the change, I wouldn't just be wandering around in the dark changing cooling system components. Not to mention that modern, fuel injected vehicles are computer tuned for "normal" coolant, and would certainly rebel against the higher temperature ceiling.
Last edited by jeff5may; 04-15-2019 at 02:05 AM..
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04-17-2019, 09:28 PM
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#17 (permalink)
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Master EcoModder
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jeff5may
Not to mention that modern, fuel injected vehicles are computer tuned for "normal" coolant, and would certainly rebel against the higher temperature ceiling.
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Coolant temps aren't a problem for regular drivers (let alone hypermilers) . Most of my cars have 88*C thermostats and they normally run at 80*C. The thermostats just barely dribble a little water into the radiator. This is proven by the radiators being just barely lukewarm after a drive.
Unless you tow or climb big hills the only possible consequence I can see is that the thermostat would be open a bit more of the time.
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04-19-2019, 04:19 AM
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#18 (permalink)
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Master EcoModder
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The original stuff is rather expensive. With import taxes over here the price will be double.
Just wondering what the return on investment would be.
Faster warmup on a diesel and the slightly hotter running temp is what intrigues me.
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04-26-2019, 02:58 PM
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#19 (permalink)
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eco....something or other
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I don't see it as a good replacement unless you are making long trips. The initial cost, coupled with the possibility of having a leak is just not enough to justify it for most drivers.
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1991 F-250:
4.9L, Mazda 5 speed, 4.10 10.25" rear
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04-26-2019, 08:22 PM
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#20 (permalink)
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home of the odd vehicles
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Quote:
Originally Posted by IsaacCarlson
I don't see it as a good replacement unless you are making long trips. The initial cost, coupled with the possibility of having a leak is just not enough to justify it for most drivers.
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Also that it doesn’t cool very well (about half as well) and is much thicker than water.
If you have lots of cooling and not driving city it’s fine and it should gain FE because you run hotter temps but you can also wear out your engine faster and need higher octane if your motor naturally runs on the hot side. (Oil thins out with heat, preignition intensifies at temperature)
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