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Old 07-04-2012, 01:39 AM   #1 (permalink)
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Evans Coolant

I have used this stuff in big diesels, some of the properties are useful in htis application, anybody using it in their small vehicle?

Its a waterless coolant, that runs at 0 PSI and boils at 375. Can allow higher engine temperatures.

Here one page about it... (No connection just an example...)
Evans HDTC waterless coolant for heavy duty applications

I could see a electric water pump with a speed controller allowing higher temperatures at cruise under light load.

Just wondering
Dave

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Old 07-04-2012, 09:40 PM   #2 (permalink)
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I heard of this years ago. I've wanted to convert a car to run it, but I am always stopped by the same concern: availability. What if I were on the road, far from home and have a leak?
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Old 07-04-2012, 10:14 PM   #3 (permalink)
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cavitation

one of the reasons cooling systems are operated at 1bar or 15psi of pressure is to reduce / eliminate
cavitation
which is a very real concern

cavitation can lead to hot spots and subsequent engine damage
but
more likely
you will run into erosion of the metal at the site (s) that cavitation takes place , you will not know there is a problem until the erosion gets extreme and perforates something
and
that is always bad / expensive / catastrophic
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Old 07-04-2012, 10:26 PM   #4 (permalink)
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I have pondered Evans as well quite a few times, one would need to acquire a 215 degree thermostat and a 0 psi rad cap, or somehow modify the existing ones if thats even possible.
I also wonder if one could still run this with the stock psi rad cap, or if that would just not work.
The extra MPG is always a good thing, this would cost me 2 gallons of product and 1 gallon of prep fluid, approx $124 + taxes and delivery.
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Old 07-05-2012, 09:35 AM   #5 (permalink)
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There must be a cheaper alternative to the Evans coolant, I don't know what it is, There is a lot of fluids out their, must be a way to do it on the cheap. Great idea though, having a higher boiling point coolant.
WD40 , If you punch a small hole in the current rad cap, it will become a 0 pressure cap. So can modify and use the same cap.
Might be possible(most thing are) to manipulate the thermostat to open at a higher temp, possible by heating the spring to weaken its tension, could try it on a few thermostats to see how little or much heat is needed. Heat may completely ruin the spring also, its a theory..
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Old 07-05-2012, 10:00 AM   #6 (permalink)
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I have often thought that mineral oil would be superior as an engine coolant, but one needs to experiment, perhaps if I had an older car .. oh wait I do .. just I can't afford to risk my VX
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Old 07-05-2012, 12:28 PM   #7 (permalink)
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The pressure cap is there to keep the water from boiling at 100C .
As the Evans coolant can take far higher temperatures, you don't need a pressure cap, but I can't see anything against using it.
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Old 07-05-2012, 06:24 PM   #8 (permalink)
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Well, thoughts,,,
As far as cavitation, this stuff is used in over the road tractor engines costing upwards of 25K if you damage them....

They actually sell 0 pressure radiator caps. Its a good idea cause it will allow the sealed system to expand and contract without losing liquid.

If you use a after market quality electric water pump and controller you can save a lot of mechanical energy because most water pumps do cavitate some all the time. They are usually pumping too much water. I think/suspect the removal of the mechanical pump, would be a way better overall win than even removing a alternator. On light spec engine sports race cars the change is very evident in straightaway speeds. The win as I see it is that your using exactly the amount of energy you need ot move the water and no more...

I plan on this conversion on my jeep wrangler in the near future just because I tried removing the mechanical fan and it was an immediate bump in highway mileage, and
jeeps are kind of known for complete lack of Aero LOL... So mechanical improvements are all I've got.. The electric waterpump would eliminate a really crappy design water pump as well...

We shall see...

Dave
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Old 07-05-2012, 07:19 PM   #9 (permalink)
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Evans coolant is fabulous. Eliminates nucleat boiling in localized hot spots exhaust seats and spark plug. If your going the electric water pump route consider circulating the coolant in reverse fashion. You can run about a point higher compression for a given fuel octane. Davies craig makes one that I've used with good results. The only drawback besides price is I've heard the viscosity goes way up in temps below zero deg. F
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Old 07-05-2012, 10:15 PM   #10 (permalink)
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I use it in my backhoe. the other day I replaced my head gasket , perkins turbocharged 4 cyl. after getting it back together, I was chasing down fuel leaks, so I removed the fan belt so I could safely stick my head in for a closer look. . the next morning I was in a hurry to get to work, and forgot to install the fan belt. after working for an hour, the oil got so hot, it boiled out of the crank case. I let it cool down, installed the belt, replaced the oil, and fired it up. no smoke, it didn't seem to hurt the engine at all. I am sold on evans coolant. as a side note, they don't recommend a 0 psi cap, all that is needed is a few pounds to keep dirt out of the system.

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