09-17-2009, 09:25 PM
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#91 (permalink)
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Quote:
I'm thinking I'll probably just chance it and throw 12VDC constant to it anyway, since I can't really see the PCM sending 3.5V, 5V, 7.5V, etc... to the solenoid... it just doesn't seem likely. Maybe I'll check it out tomorrow a little more and see if I can trace the wires back to a relay or something...
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Seems like an added OEM cost to send lower voltage there or have a relay. Plus the resistance losses are greater at lower voltage.
I tapped into my lockup wire at the ECU connector. Have you looked at pinout diagrams for your vehicle? Don't need them if you know the color but it helps to know where to look. If you find it and have a good multimeter with a 10A fuse for the ammeter just run it thru that and take a trip. You have to find it anyway seems cheap insurance to test the V.
Considering you can buy kits to do this, I can't imagine anything other than 12V. They seem to be wires with switches. No fancy electronics. 'Course I'd hate to be responsible for someone breaking something so I'll end with: Test to be sure.
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09-17-2009, 09:29 PM
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#92 (permalink)
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Moderate your Moderation.
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I'm not really sure, actually. The line pressure shouldn't be that high cruising, only under load. It should calm down while cruising, substantially.
That place you talked to is probably assuming that you'll be accelerating under full load (like drag racing) and that's probably why they told you the pressure figure.
I don't think 200 PSI is going to happen under daily driving conditions (if you're sane, like the rest of us.)
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09-17-2009, 09:46 PM
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#93 (permalink)
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eco....something or other
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I think I am, I think I am, I think I am.......
*wonders what the EPA rating would be for a manual tranny*
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1991 F-250:
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Last edited by IsaacCarlson; 09-17-2009 at 09:52 PM..
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09-17-2009, 09:53 PM
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#94 (permalink)
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Moderate your Moderation.
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Quote:
Originally Posted by orange4boy
Seems like an added OEM cost to send lower voltage there or have a relay. Plus the resistance losses are greater at lower voltage.
I tapped into my lockup wire at the ECU connector. Have you looked at pinout diagrams for your vehicle? Don't need them if you know the color but it helps to know where to look. If you find it and have a good multimeter with a 10A fuse for the ammeter just run it thru that and take a trip. You have to find it anyway seems cheap insurance to test the V.
Considering you can buy kits to do this, I can't imagine anything other than 12V. They seem to be wires with switches. No fancy electronics. 'Course I'd hate to be responsible for someone breaking something so I'll end with: Test to be sure.
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I take responsibility for my actions - I don't blame my stupidity on anyone else, ever.
I'll check it out more tomorrow, after I send Ben's ignition switch contacts out.
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09-17-2009, 09:59 PM
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#95 (permalink)
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eco....something or other
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Let us know what you find out so we can fiddle too!!!
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1991 F-250:
4.9L, Mazda 5 speed, 4.10 10.25" rear
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09-17-2009, 11:51 PM
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#96 (permalink)
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As I stated earlier in this thread, the PWM is generaly used to ease engagement so the driver doesn't feel it hit. Then it's a constant 12v. That's why the "kits" are just switches and wires. You'd need a PWM with a micro controler to recreate the signal from the PCM. It should be safe to just hit it with 12V constant, keeping in mind you don't want to be heavly loaded when you hit it.
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09-18-2009, 02:35 AM
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#97 (permalink)
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Quote:
I take responsibility for my actions - I don't blame my stupidity on anyone else, ever.
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Hopefully that speaks for everyone else reading these threads! I still don't want to give out bad info so when I'm not sure, I post my caveat.
Quote:
As I stated earlier in this thread, the PWM is generaly used to ease engagement so the driver doesn't feel it hit. Then it's a constant 12v
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Thanks Tygen1, I guess I took a swim around the goldfish bowl.
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09-18-2009, 03:02 AM
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#98 (permalink)
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Moderate your Moderation.
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Tygen1
As I stated earlier in this thread, the PWM is generaly used to ease engagement so the driver doesn't feel it hit. Then it's a constant 12v. That's why the "kits" are just switches and wires. You'd need a PWM with a micro controler to recreate the signal from the PCM. It should be safe to just hit it with 12V constant, keeping in mind you don't want to be heavly loaded when you hit it.
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I just wondered if it was that way for all of them, or just for the Ford, or for the Ford and some other makes, etc...
I don't like to say that something is one way just because the same something somewhere else is that way... the second I say it, it usually turns around and turns out the other way. (If that made any sense to you.)
I did remember that post, though. I went back and read it before I posted that I'd go out and check on it tomorrow. (Today, now.)
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09-19-2009, 10:26 AM
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#99 (permalink)
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eco....something or other
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sorry i've been busy, has anyone made any more progress
on the manumatic? I have been meaning to try locking the tc clutch with a switch but have been too busy fixing things around the farm. I will do more modding once the rabbits have a proper house.....
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1991 F-250:
4.9L, Mazda 5 speed, 4.10 10.25" rear
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09-19-2009, 11:55 AM
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#100 (permalink)
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Moderate your Moderation.
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I'll be checking it out this weekend after I'm done running around with my Father.
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