Freezing the Slushbox. Torque Converter on-demand lockup switch. - Page 8 - Fuel Economy, Hypermiling, EcoModding News and Forum

orange4boy · 09-16-2009, 03:06 AM

Interesting find from an Amsoil ad, so grains of salt should be consumed:

Quote:

Over 40 percent of total energy loss in a transmission can be attributed to the act of pumping automatic transmission fluid (ATF) to the transmissions components during transfer of power. The mechanical efficiency of an automatic transmission is directly affected by the viscosity of the transmission fluid. When temperatures drop and cause ATF to thicken, transmission efficiency and power decline. Industry tests on torque loss demonstrate that a temperature increase of 150 degrees F increases transmission efficiency by up to 37.5 percent. In other words, as viscosity decreases, transmission efficiency increases.

This means to two things for this winter:

1) Synthetic ATF
2) Transmission preheater.

Quote:

While the average conventional transmission fluid has a Brookfield viscosity of 15,000 cP, Amsoil synthetic Automatic Transmission Fluid far exceeds the minimum standard with a Brookfield viscosity of 7,454 cP ensuring maximum transmission efficiency and power even during the coldest winter temperatures.

IsaacCarlson · 09-16-2009, 05:30 PM

1st-ON ON
2nd-OFF ON
3rd-OFF OFF
4th-ON OFF

So for me, the tranny would default to 3rd between gears. I could probably get away with two switches.
both on would be first,
turn off switch #1 for second,
turn off switch #2 for third,
turn on switch #1 for fourth. I could run a switch for TC lockup, but my question is do i need to unlock when shifting or can i just leave it locked? probably unlock for downshifting/stopping. i don't think i have to be spot on with the downshift rpm since my stall is AROUND 1400 I think.

what do you think?

I NEED A TACH DON'T I??????

Christ · 09-16-2009, 07:20 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by IsaacCarlson

1st-ON ON
2nd-OFF ON
3rd-OFF OFF
4th-ON OFF

So for me, the tranny would default to 3rd between gears. I could probably get away with two switches.
both on would be first,
turn off switch #1 for second,
turn off switch #2 for third,
turn on switch #1 for fourth. I could run a switch for TC lockup, but my question is do i need to unlock when shifting or can i just leave it locked? probably unlock for downshifting/stopping. i don't think i have to be spot on with the downshift rpm since my stall is AROUND 1400 I think.

what do you think?

I NEED A TACH DON'T I??????

You can leave it locked as long as you're not applying alot of torque... if you start doing full throttle shifts while locked up, you're going to smoke the clutch.

You can leave it engaged to allow for engine braking, as well, while slowing down, which may help save your brakes. I haven't changed the brakes on the van since I got it, and the inspection mechanic said they looked "nearly new"
when he measured them against "new" specifications. I can only attribute this to engine braking as often as I need to slow down, and only using the brakes (for the most part) if I plan on stopping, then only for as short a period of time as I can.

IsaacCarlson · 09-16-2009, 08:29 PM

i am not asking because i want to push it to the limit, i just want to know where the limit is. maybe install tach and push till it slips????(only once)then i would know the limit for sure and could stay well away from it. any recommendations on a good tach or should i just buy an inexpensive one?

Tygen1 · 09-16-2009, 09:44 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by IsaacCarlson

1st-ON ON
2nd-OFF ON
3rd-OFF OFF
4th-ON OFF

So for me, the tranny would default to 3rd between gears. I could probably get away with two switches.
both on would be first,
turn off switch #1 for second,
turn off switch #2 for third,
turn on switch #1 for fourth. I could run a switch for TC lockup, but my question is do i need to unlock when shifting or can i just leave it locked? probably unlock for downshifting/stopping. i don't think i have to be spot on with the downshift rpm since my stall is AROUND 1400 I think.

what do you think?

I NEED A TACH DON'T I??????

Did you check out the link to the schematic I made? The way I wired mine, there are no "in-between" gears...

Christ · 09-16-2009, 11:57 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Tygen1

Did you check out the link to the schematic I made? The way I wired mine, there are no "in-between" gears...

The way he's talking about using two switches, there wouldn't be any in-betweens either. He's talking about using a box with two switches in it to control each solenoid independently, from what I gather. I'm not sure why he mentioned "in between" default, as it doesn't apply to that type of manual switching setup.

Noone can check that link unless they have a membership to that site, from what I gather... the images on the thread are hidden to non-registered (logged in) users.

orange4boy · 09-17-2009, 03:51 AM

Thanks for the schematic. That's great. Yeah, I couldn't get to it without registering.

I will have to take a look at it when I have an hour.

If you go with a rotary switch for the shifting, it will be simpler. I'm going to put a paddle on my rotary switch with some detents for each gear. I wanted to have a manual style shifter with neutral in between gates like the real thing but not sure that's possible if neutral - drive - reverse is a mechanical linkage. An actuator could do this but I want to keep this simple.

I'm going tomorrow or Friday to talk to a guy here who sells these inexpensive ($50-$75) programmable process control microcomputers. (Like the CLIK) They hook up to your computer and a program assembles the code for you. I'm hoping I can set it up so the TCC lock is automatic but only comes on at a minimum rpm/vacuum in each gear. As far as I know this is exactly the kind of thing they do. I would use the speed sensor, vac gauge and the solenoids' on off signals to set it up.

Issac, Cheap tach is fine. Mine was $30. I hooked mine up to my OBDI terminal.

Driving in the city again today,using the TCC lock. It sure would be helpful to have the timing automated. I'ts very easy to end up in too high a gear. Not a problem though, just throttle off / switch off or shift. It shifts fine with the lock on but I try to keep the torque lowish. I think it slipped once today up a steep hill with lots of throttle. Takes quite a bit to do it.
TCC is fanatstic on the onramp though. Seems effortless and quiet compared to the old buzzy racket. And you can feel the torque curve. Probably not so good with a full load though.

Whew, long post. Signing off...

Christ · 09-17-2009, 04:01 AM

I still can't find the stupid wires for the Caravan's lockup solenoid... apparently, I'm just not looking hard enough?

orange4boy · 09-17-2009, 04:24 AM

Are you looking physically or digitally?

Christ · 09-17-2009, 02:28 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by orange4boy

Are you looking physically or digitally?

Service Manual-ly.

I just found it, though... it's on the front of the case, where I thought was the reverse sensor... now, I've got to find the reverse sensor...

If I'm understanding correctly, it's a solenoid controlled fluid circuit that's only open with the selector in "D", which means I can't manually select "2" and lock 'er up, which is fine with me. (There are valve body modifications for this, but I'm not worried about building a FMVB, due to my plans to swap to manual transmission.)

So now, I have to figure out how much voltage to apply. I assume it's 12V, but I'll have to tap the lines at the PCM and watch with a volt meter while it locks up, hopefully it's not PWM and it's just a steady 12V circuit.