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Old 10-18-2013, 03:56 PM   #251 (permalink)
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depending on how sophisticated your PCM/TCM is, it might work to stop codes using a resistor.

others aren't so easily fooled. they'll expect to see slip at times and if it isn't present, will start throwing codes that may or may not trigger the SES lamp.

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Old 10-18-2013, 10:48 PM   #252 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RobertISaar View Post
depending on how sophisticated your PCM/TCM is, it might work to stop codes using a resistor.
After reviewing the FSM for my car, I see that my PCM (which happens to also control the transmission - Chrysler combined the two modules into one around 2003, I think) is ridiculously sophisticated. The stupid thing actually looks for the flyback voltage that is generated after a pulse is sent to each solenoid. A resistor would not work, I think. It's like when I tried to fool the PCM into thinking that my EGR valve was less open that it really was. The darned thing actually measures current draw, and throws a code if it sees an excessive resistance through the EGR position sense circuit.

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Originally Posted by RobertISaar View Post
others aren't so easily fooled. they'll expect to see slip at times and if it isn't present, will start throwing codes that may or may not trigger the SES lamp.
I don't mind seeing a SES lamp - Indeed, I lived with one for almost two years with my truck, because I installed a slightly newer TCM in that beast that was almost completely electrically compatible (it came out of a Jeep Grand Cherokee) and that "added" a 2nd overdrive, but that could not communicate with the rest of the truck electronics because it used a newer and incompatible vehicle network (PCI vs. Chrysler Collision Detection).

On the other hand, I do very much mind if the PCM were to actually go into a limp-in mode that actually caused more fuel to be consumed than normal.
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Old 10-18-2013, 11:03 PM   #253 (permalink)
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well, if flyback voltage NEEDS to exist for it to be happy, an equivalent(or at least somewhat close) inductor should provide that function.

otherwise, perhaps something monitoring the circuit, watching for pulses and when the pulse drops, have it dump an equivalent voltage spike back onto the circuit?



of course, easier said than designed.
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Old 03-28-2014, 03:35 PM   #254 (permalink)
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hi guys im back on this one again and have another idea.

my tcu (2000 civic coupe) is built into the ecu so i cannot remove it. i could install a manual ecu but would need to remove the immobilizer from it. my other idea is to get some more shift solenoids and make dummy boxes to replace the ones connected to the harness. this keeps the ecu happy while i control the other solenoids myself with a simple circuit. install a foot switch to freeze the clutch up. so press switch, change gear, let off switch and torque converter locks. install another small circuit to keep the tcc open at low speeds to avoid stalling.
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Old 04-03-2014, 02:24 PM   #255 (permalink)
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No need to disengage the TC lock when changing gears, unless the TCC fluid circuit is tied into the shift solenoid circuits.

There is a mod to disable the immo device on those PCMs as well... afaik it's cheap and readily available, like most things for Honda/Acura cars. You can probably get it on eBay... like most things for Honda/Acura cars. LOL
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Old 04-03-2014, 02:43 PM   #256 (permalink)
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certain transmissions i've come across DO NOT LIKE upshifting with the TCC locked(a very fast/firm upshift results). i can't speak for honda units in particular, but i would do temporary testing(jumper wires, for instance) before setting off on any permanant method.

a faster/firmer shift isn't necessarily a bad thing(less time with the clutches slipping = longer clutchplate life and lower trans temps), but there is a point of too quick to where you will start tearing up engine/trans mounts and possibly causing internal damage, depending on how stout the trans was made.
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Old 04-05-2014, 10:40 PM   #257 (permalink)
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How VW addressed TC lockup

I owned a 1968 VW bug that had "automatic stick shift"
As near as I could tell, it was a manual transmission that was mated
to a TC. There was no manual clutch. I shifted the transmission
just like a manual transmission. The knob on the stick shift had a sensitive
switch that would make contact whenever you touched the knob.
This switch controlled the TC lockup solenoid.
It was a good and simple set up that always worked perfectly.
I hope you can use this info.
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Old 04-06-2014, 12:04 PM   #258 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by darrylrobida View Post
I owned a 1968 VW bug that had "automatic stick shift"
As near as I could tell, it was a manual transmission that was mated
to a TC. There was no manual clutch. I shifted the transmission
just like a manual transmission. The knob on the stick shift had a sensitive
switch that would make contact whenever you touched the knob.
This switch controlled the TC lockup solenoid.
It was a good and simple set up that always worked perfectly.
I hope you can use this info.
thats kinda what i was thinking thats why i wanted to control it with a switch. im going to put a push to break switch in the shifter area to prevent it locking in first gear then when upshifting it will allow the circuit to close and i can then open it with my foot.
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Old 04-07-2014, 02:25 PM   #259 (permalink)
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SO you basically want a foot 'clutch' that's a switch instead of a cable or hydraulics... seems legit.
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Old 04-08-2014, 02:24 PM   #260 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Christ View Post
SO you basically want a foot 'clutch' that's a switch instead of a cable or hydraulics... seems legit.
spot on. the switch would be a press to break and i would also fit similar switches in the selector housing to prevent it locking in 1st 2nd and reverse. im looking at the immo delete and perhaps use the manual ecu so no tcu to contend with.

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