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Old 06-05-2011, 11:04 AM   #131 (permalink)
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If I owned a Nissan Leaf,I know exactly what I'd do to it.
There's no danger of making it any uglier than it already is

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Old 06-07-2011, 07:20 PM   #132 (permalink)
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overpass

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Originally Posted by KamperBob View Post
Phil, your fire escape perch for overhead pix got me thinking so I'll have to watch for similar photo ops. Perhaps the far side of the vehicle could be jacked so the roof is more normal to the camera. A high overpass and helper (one drive, one shoot) also springs to mind.
There's a really nice pedestrian overpass on campus at Texas Women's University in Denton.
So far,everybody's cups are full timewise,and it's tough getting help on the camera.One day!
If Stevie Ray Vaughn were still with us I'd get him to take me up in the 'copter.
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Old 06-18-2011, 05:42 PM   #133 (permalink)
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side-panel mechanism illustrations

Al got the illustrations scanned for the gap-filler side panels.
They're a 'solution',not 'the' solution.More later.
PS I did get a semi-overhead plan-view photo of the rig from the fire-escape of the Opera House two weeks ago.
It's too close to closing to compress it and attach.I'll try for next weekend.
I'm trying to shift my cycle to take advantage of sub-90-degree mornings and begin fabrication before sunrise.
During the heat of the day Saturday,I'll get here to Copy-Pro and do the photo.Thanks for your patience!
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Last edited by aerohead; 06-18-2011 at 05:53 PM.. Reason: add PS
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Old 06-18-2011, 08:04 PM   #134 (permalink)
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Those are great illustrations, aerohead, do you have any dimensions for the various arms? Those might be of interest for towing the boat behind the boat tail.

My RV boat tail is coming along pretty well. So much for building a quick prototype to see what kind of gains it achieves. This is such a big structure I decided to buy some steel and go for it, I don't know how else to do it. The three trim pieces for the rear cap were all damaged and cracked and they want about $350 for new trim so I figure if this works that money is well spent towards the modifications. The frame is about 80% done so far and weighs a little over 60 pounds. I’m impressed with how strong the structure is, even with no skin yet.

I'm going to cover it in coroplast to do some testing, if it proves to be sufficiently beneficial I'll probably recover it with aluminum. This summer heat is slowing things down a little but I can’t wait to test this out.
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Old 06-18-2011, 08:19 PM   #135 (permalink)
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Here's the other two images that didn't post because they were slightly too big.
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Old 06-19-2011, 07:37 AM   #136 (permalink)
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My RV boat tail is coming along pretty well. The frame is about 80% done so far and weighs a little over 60 pounds. I’m impressed with how strong the structure is, even with no skin yet.
Even though it feels strong, I'd suggest adding some diagonal bracing.
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Old 06-19-2011, 07:46 AM   #137 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by aerohead View Post
Al got the illustrations scanned for the gap-filler side panels.
They're a 'solution',not 'the' solution.More later.
Looks complicated.

How about a rounded-off front, and spring loaded side panels ?
A small wheel on the inside of side panel can roll on the trailer's front - maybe on a reinforced patch of skin.
A castor wheel will allow for horizontal and vertical displacement of the trailer.
A simple physical blockage can prevent the side panel from retracting too far inboard (due to the spring) when the gap widens on that side.


Instead of using a wheel, a half-sphere of Teflon would easily slide over a strip of Teflon on the trailer.
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Old 06-19-2011, 10:49 AM   #138 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by orbywan View Post
My RV boat tail is coming along pretty well. So much for building a quick prototype to see what kind of gains it achieves. This is such a big structure I decided to buy some steel and go for it, I don't know how else to do it. The three trim pieces for the rear cap were all damaged and cracked and they want about $350 for new trim so I figure if this works that money is well spent towards the modifications. The frame is about 80% done so far and weighs a little over 60 pounds. I’m impressed with how strong the structure is, even with no skin yet.

I'm going to cover it in coroplast to do some testing, if it proves to be sufficiently beneficial I'll probably recover it with aluminum. This summer heat is slowing things down a little but I can’t wait to test this out.
orbywan, This deserves it's own thread. Great to see some modding on a large vehicle and please post the results. I hope you were careful not to go too steep on your angles. Good for you for diving in on this project.
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The power needed to push an object through a fluid increases as the cube of the velocity. Mechanical friction increases as the square, so increasing speed requires progressively more power.
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Old 06-19-2011, 12:19 PM   #139 (permalink)
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orbywan, This deserves it's own thread. Great to see some modding on a large vehicle and please post the results. I hope you were careful not to go too steep on your angles. Good for you for diving in on this project.
COcyclist, I think you're right, when I get to the point where I have more to post I'll start over with a new thread. I'm a little concerned I got the angles too steep also but it's too late to change it now. Getting the bottom angles to be identical to the top and sides was a challenge but I think I figured out how to do it last night about 3AM.

It will take a week of 'spare' time to finish the framework on the bottom and skin it. As soon as that is done the Mrs is making me up some tale tells or however you spell that. If that testing shows the flow is right I'll do some mileage testing. If the tell tales show the flow is not right I'll dismantle it, make a bigger rear frame to reduce the angles, straighten out the ribs a little and do it again.
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Old 06-25-2011, 03:58 PM   #140 (permalink)
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complicated

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Originally Posted by euromodder View Post
Looks complicated.

How about a rounded-off front, and spring loaded side panels ?
A small wheel on the inside of side panel can roll on the trailer's front - maybe on a reinforced patch of skin.
A castor wheel will allow for horizontal and vertical displacement of the trailer.
A simple physical blockage can prevent the side panel from retracting too far inboard (due to the spring) when the gap widens on that side.


Instead of using a wheel, a half-sphere of Teflon would easily slide over a strip of Teflon on the trailer.
euromodder,it is complicated,there's no question about it.
This design is the 3rd-generation since I began the project.
I have in-line skate rollers for the design you describe.
Also castors for the top panel,although I've already went beyond that.Probably over-kill.
Return springs are part of the design.
Your idea about the Teflon is good.I don't have machining capability,so I'm staying away from more advanced ideas in the event that others are similarly situated and need to mind a very limited budget.
The illustrations are meant to demonstrate the 'essence' of the design,without minutia cluttering up the images.I cannot dedicate more time to the drawings without endangering my trip in September.
As to the rounding of the front,I want a seamless transition,without gaps,from the truck to the tip of the trailer.Everything must be flush.
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I will spend a lot of time on the mechanisms,let them be most of the engineering and shoot for interchangeable skins to allow for use on more than one vehicle.
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I also want most of the engineering to be behind the hitch to minimize binding.If the panels move along with the trailer they cannot create interference and bind up as the rig 'twists' while negotiating ramps,gutters,pot-holes,etc..
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The integrator will need to have some 'give' as it performs as part of a ball-and-socket so to speak.
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Again,this is only one solution,and no doubt it will be eclipsed by better and more simple technology.It is just a beginning.
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Proving the aerodynamics is the premise of the project.And the rig will have to survive about 6,000 miles of on-road testing over bad road and hazards.It's got to be tough or I'm in trouble.

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