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Old 11-28-2009, 04:01 PM   #41 (permalink)
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It's pretty linear at normal inflation pressures based on everything I've seen. Double the load and double the rolling force, the RRC doesn't change much if at all.

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Old 11-28-2009, 04:54 PM   #42 (permalink)
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What about on train wheels? j/w
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Old 11-28-2009, 05:03 PM   #43 (permalink)
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Still linear. Also, with ball bearings - tiny steel wheels on steel track. The low deflections and hysterisis just reduce friction overall without changing the character of the relationship.
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Old 11-28-2009, 10:37 PM   #44 (permalink)
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Okay, this is off topic, but I want to try something.

What materials would be good for an aerocap? (nothing like fiberglass because I want to keep it cheap. no card board either)
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Old 11-28-2009, 10:50 PM   #45 (permalink)
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COROPLAST Cheap, and light enough that you can install it yourself and hinge it up from one side for easy bed access. A rolled edge is an easy stiffener. See how far you can get without a frame - just add layers or ribs using more Coroplast wherever you can. Silicon seal glues it well.
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Old 11-28-2009, 11:30 PM   #46 (permalink)
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You can find Coroplast readily, of course, and if you need to put more than one sheet together, you can make small "biscuits" that are more like sticks and insert them into the corrugation of each piece, then seal it with whatever.

There is also an option to use salvaged anything, including sheet metal... not as easy to work with, not as light, but still free.
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Old 11-28-2009, 11:41 PM   #47 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Christ View Post
You can find Coroplast readily, of course, and if you need to put more than one sheet together, you can make small "biscuits" that are more like sticks and insert them into the corrugation of each piece, then seal it with whatever.

There is also an option to use salvaged anything, including sheet metal... not as easy to work with, not as light, but still free.
Like 1/8 dowel rods? I may go see if my home depot has any. Isn't that the place that is supposed to have it?
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Old 11-28-2009, 11:46 PM   #48 (permalink)
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Yup. You only need a small intersect, like 1/4" or 1/2" into each piece to make it hold, and you can get away with one every 10 or so flutes.

The other (very secure, very time consuming) way to do it would be to cut between the walls of each flute, leaving a structure like this:

_
_|
_
_|
_
_|

Then poking a hole through the exposed inner corrugation. Do the same with the matching piece, line them up, and put a rod through the lined up holes. Binds them together and makes a decent hinge for access panels and such.
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Old 11-28-2009, 11:48 PM   #49 (permalink)
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I like option the sticks better. :P This plan is on the backburner, I need the electric bike a little bit more.
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Old 11-28-2009, 11:51 PM   #50 (permalink)
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This for the Dakota?

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