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Old 04-05-2014, 05:19 PM   #61 (permalink)
hypermiller somewhat.....
 
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Was operating upper only then lower only, with some improvement in mileage. Did enjoy some improvement in mileage, and was able to increase IAT by a few degrees coolant temperature between 84 to 95.

Now that I have wired in a fan on indicator, I have been running lately all of my grill blocks in and I have enjoyed one tank of significant gains that you can see on my vibe fuel log, the next tank will be even better. I do have one side folded open just to limit fan operation. (fan starts at 95 degree c, my highway driving forces me to open the block)

However I think the mileage improvement is more attributable to the sudden increase and nearly constant coolant temperature of 95 to 98 degrees C. and my IAT is now nearly 20 degrees C over ambient. My quick calculation is 2.5% benefit.

It actually has me thinking about a way to have the air flow automatically regulated that ensures coolant temperature of 95 degree C, but I do need a means of forcing air into the radiator as required.

My car has a large opening between the lower front bumper cover and the lower radiator support.

May sound crazy but I want to install an inverted air scoop that is normally closed. A solenoid pushs it down and open when the fan starts. I am thinking if is just the right size the air will keep it open at highway speed which will prevent the fan from short cycling. As the car slows down the scoop will close hopefully when engine load is not so high.

I could wire in a self latching relay that remains closed when the fan stops and install a thermoswitch that opens the circuit at a lower temperature say 90 - 93 degrees.

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Old 04-06-2014, 02:28 AM   #62 (permalink)
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I had a 30mpg 1-ton Ram 3500 that I did an article on like 7 years ago, the grille block and electric fans were worth 2-3mpg in almost all conditions..... works great on diesels since the front is basically a big parachute!

1997 Dodge Ram 3500 Dualie Cummins - Diesel Power Magazine
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Old 04-06-2014, 07:27 AM   #63 (permalink)
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Oh ssnsvibe09, what next? Aside from a Probe IV style wheel cover and underbody cover and some kind of remote heat control, it looks like you've got all the low hanging fruit totally maxed out. Well done.

The basic form of a late model Honda is just nowhere near as blunt as even the most slick modern SUV. My old 81 Mustang is even worse, so its really nothing to remove 70% of the at birth body drag on that. But with all the cladding I plan, your Honda will still have a lower total cdA. There is 30 years of aero work done by the automaker. Look at what I have to do to even get close to what your Honda offered stock.


Things like booth windowing, curtain walling the outer windows and all the tech tips you guys taught are mostly in place or irrelevant to a modern Honda.

On my car, the whole glass window can be covered with a polycarbonate booth window cladding needed, everything dove tailing into the IMSA style curtain wall plexiglass/lexan/polycarbonate. There is some metal that has to be removed from the door so that the booth widow can be flush, but the molding would cover it up to return it to original.








I'm working with a local building supplier and polytechnic to make up a kit.

Booth windowing a Fox is simply one of the most easy factory style aero mod I can think of.

The headlamp covers are dead easy too Headlight covers??


with a basic GT0204C-79-82 obsolete clear cover around as a template, but extended as a total grille blocker




The grille and headlamp blocker is the biggest sole improvement

Lastly, the chin of the car can take a 2004 March 1 chin spoiler, and a full chloroplast underbody.


I might be a bit busy with this... :hmmm:
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Old 04-09-2014, 08:32 AM   #64 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by xecute View Post
Oh ssnsvibe09, what next? Aside from a Probe IV style wheel cover and underbody cover and some kind of remote heat control, it looks like you've got all the low hanging fruit totally maxed out. Well done.

The basic form of a late model Honda is just nowhere near as blunt as even the most slick modern SUV. My old 81 Mustang is even worse, so its really nothing to remove 70% of the at birth body drag on that. But with all the cladding I plan, your Honda will still have a lower total cdA. There is 30 years of aero work done by the automaker. Look at what I have to do to even get close to what your Honda offered stock.


Things like booth windowing, curtain walling the outer windows and all the tech tips you guys taught are mostly in place or irrelevant to a modern Honda.

On my car, the whole glass window can be covered with a polycarbonate booth window cladding needed, everything dove tailing into the IMSA style curtain wall plexiglass/lexan/polycarbonate. There is some metal that has to be removed from the door so that the booth widow can be flush, but the molding would cover it up to return it to original.


I'm working with a local building supplier and polytechnic to make up a kit.

Booth windowing a Fox is simply one of the most easy factory style aero mod I can think of.

The headlamp covers are dead easy too

with a basic GT0204C-79-82 obsolete clear cover around as a template, but extended as a total grille blocker


The grille and headlamp blocker is the biggest sole improvement

Lastly, the chin of the car can take a 2004 March 1 chin spoiler, and a full chloroplast underbody.


I might be a bit busy with this... :hmmm:
You might be a bit busy!

I'd agree that a modern Honda is much better off than some olders cars. But, there is room for improvment, as we've found.

The grill block is off of my car now as the temps are getting warmer and I want to see what my coolant baseline is with the AC running. I use the AC when the wife and kids are in the car. I may have to modify my lower grill block to allow some air in.
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Old 04-11-2014, 08:34 PM   #65 (permalink)
hypermiller somewhat.....
 
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I have bravely keep my blocks on, but have made a significant discovery with my fan control module (enough to justify a new thread, in my mind)

The controller steps up and down the voltage to the fan as the temperature changes but has not gone to full battery voltage yet..@ 100(212) degrees.

This multistep voltage control might be very useful in my idea of an underbody air scoop that adjusts on demand.

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