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Old 04-02-2010, 02:01 PM   #11 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bestclimb View Post
I find thot they get yau there foster if yau dant wander.
Facepalm.jpg

Wander/Wonder is a running Facebook joke I have with my friends, I forgot that you guys aren't them.

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Old 04-02-2010, 03:10 PM   #12 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bestclimb View Post
I find thot they get yau there foster if yau dant wander.

I have found that slow acceleratrion does not seem to help that much with milage. Really fast acceleration hurts milage (because you turn the engine up to high rpm) so finding the happy medium betwixt keeping it in low milage while accelerating for longer and getting into the no acceleration high milage mode sooner. To help with knowing that data is key. Get yourself an mpguino or scan guage if your car does not have instantanious and trip mpg readouts.
Medium, I'll give them a try, I've got the instant and average mpg on the display in the car so I can check it out. I'll report back
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Old 04-02-2010, 05:42 PM   #13 (permalink)
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Installing a block heater for the winters would help. Also, a grill block would improve the aerodynamics and engine warm up time a bit.
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Old 04-02-2010, 05:46 PM   #14 (permalink)
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The mistake I was making was thinking a "glacer start" (VERY slow excellerating) was using less fuel. As I was corrected here on the forum getting the car into the higher gears is the first key, well if you are taking forever to get up to speed you are driving it longer in the lower gears getting worse mileage!

STUDY the following link. 100+ Hypermiling / ecodriving tips & tactics for better mpg - EcoModder.com Don't read thru it saying to yourself "I knew this" STUDY it. There were a ton of things I thought I knew but REALLY didn't.

One of these being how important it is to NOT stop at stop lights. How do you not stop at a stop light, easy, you short brake and leave the rolling up to the last car while the light turns green. The motor doesn't have to move the mass from a stop, the basic science principle, "It takes less energy to keep a mass moving than to start it from a dead stop".

STUDY the list, I have improved my mileage by over 25% using that list, and I was "practicing" what I THOUGHT were fuel saving driving habits already!

Brian
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Old 04-03-2010, 09:03 AM   #15 (permalink)
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I'm working thru the list now, there are a ton of good tips there. I have been trying to not come to a stop at traffic lights, it's a whole lot easier when there isn't much traffic. And it is absolutely amazing how far the car will roll in neutral. Dang trouble is that everybody wants to drag race off right up to a red light and I don't want to piss people off too much But trying to not brake unless your going < 20 or 30 has helped a lot.

I'll run some trials about the acceleration and report my findings too


Quote:
Originally Posted by MARTINSR View Post
The mistake I was making was thinking a "glacer start" (VERY slow excellerating) was using less fuel. As I was corrected here on the forum getting the car into the higher gears is the first key, well if you are taking forever to get up to speed you are driving it longer in the lower gears getting worse mileage!

STUDY the following link. 100+ Hypermiling / ecodriving tips & tactics for better mpg - EcoModder.com Don't read thru it saying to yourself "I knew this" STUDY it. There were a ton of things I thought I knew but REALLY didn't.

One of these being how important it is to NOT stop at stop lights. How do you not stop at a stop light, easy, you short brake and leave the rolling up to the last car while the light turns green. The motor doesn't have to move the mass from a stop, the basic science principle, "It takes less energy to keep a mass moving than to start it from a dead stop".

STUDY the list, I have improved my mileage by over 25% using that list, and I was "practicing" what I THOUGHT were fuel saving driving habits already!

Brian
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Old 04-03-2010, 09:53 AM   #16 (permalink)
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Skip gears, 1st till you should shift to third, then third till you should shift to sixth.

0-30 (shift) 30-50 (shift) in 6th at a low RPM.

With that short of a commute, you need a block heater.
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Old 04-03-2010, 04:09 PM   #17 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Fastskiguy View Post
I'm working thru the list now, there are a ton of good tips there. I have been trying to not come to a stop at traffic lights, it's a whole lot easier when there isn't much traffic. And it is absolutely amazing how far the car will roll in neutral. Dang trouble is that everybody wants to drag race off right up to a red light and I don't want to piss people off too much But trying to not brake unless your going < 20 or 30 has helped a lot.

I'll run some trials about the acceleration and report my findings too
I find that how many cars at the light make almost no difference at all. It is all about short braking to slow the car then letting it roll up to the last car until that car starts rolling as well due to the light being green. The hard part that you have to learn is timing the whole thing, cars, and light together. What the cars add is simply an unknowing, when exactly will they move?

But that is all in the learning, I am getting damn good at it.

Brian
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Old 04-04-2010, 12:49 PM   #18 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by Fastskiguy View Post
-accelerating...I've read sometimes brisk acceleration is better, is this something you have to try and see or is it true (or false?). I've read things like "75% throttle" but I'd be doing 0-60 in 8 seconds with that, especially if I let the rpm's get a little higher.
The trick is keeping the RPM's down. You want to row through the gears as fast as you can while keeping the RPM's down, and I'd say below 2K on that engine. You might find a different RPM produces better results though, so try experimenting a little.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Fastskiguy View Post
-tires..I've got bridgestone Turanza's at 30 psi because that's what it says on the door but the tire says max pressure 51 psi. Can I take'em up to 51psi? I don't want to make the car uncontrollable....but what is the deal with PSI anyway?
Go up slowly. 30 is almost certainly too low, and the door placard is based on comfort, not efficiency or grip. You'll probably find the car hits peak grip at a higher pressure. Go up about 5 PSI at a time, and back off a bit when you notice lower grip.

Edit: I see I'm late to the party.
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Old 04-04-2010, 04:39 PM   #19 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MadisonMPG View Post
Facepalm.jpg

Wander/Wonder is a running Facebook joke I have with my friends, I forgot that you guys aren't them.
No worries I(we) knew whatcha ment, I usualy don't get too excited about typos or misspellings but I figured a good natured ribbing on a good natured sarcastic post was in order
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Old 04-04-2010, 06:32 PM   #20 (permalink)
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fatskiguy:
You already use the manual for its advantages, they are great to run...

did you learn the max torque rpm and horses written?

the v6 is elusive...
meaning the content spot in the throttle may be beyond the actual power curve written.

that is all I can think of..when mentioning v6. It is quite happy as an f1 14,000 rpm dragster...gotta keep after yourself.

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