Help on controller - Fuel Economy, Hypermiling, EcoModding News and Forum

ken · 11-01-2010, 11:00 AM

I have a P & S controller, on 48 volts now. I will go to 96 volts when I`m done. I can`t get my controller to do anything? It will not run the motor. What do I have to do to get it to work? Thanks Ken

jackbauer · 11-01-2010, 02:50 PM

In order to help you out we'll need a lot more detail and ideally a few pictures of your setup.

ken · 11-03-2010, 12:57 PM

I have the battery pack hook up, the + line goes in to a switch, then into the fuse block, out to the contactor, then to the B+ on the controller then to the motor A1, and the other end of motor A2 goes to M-, and the B- goes to the - side of the battery pack. Then the red wire goes to 12 volt B+, and black goes to ground. And the next 3 wires go to the pot box. I have 3 pins on the pot bot, pluse 2 wires red and black. How do I hook it up? I have pictures, but I dont know how to get them here, DO you? Will this help? Do I have it hook up right? Thanks Ken

MPaulHolmes · 11-03-2010, 01:29 PM

Ken, do you know how to attach pictures to email? If you send them to me, I can put them on here for you. The pot box should only get the top 2 wires from J1 on the control board. The 3rd (middle) wire on the control board isn't used with the pot box.

MPaulHolmes · 11-04-2010, 09:09 PM

Some of Ken's pictures:

http://www.myphotos.yahoo.com/s/20tfp3ygzhuqvp0fimlx

http://www.myphotos.yahoo.com/s/20tf...wg.kJ1ZxR.SxYb

One thing I noticed is that PH1 and PH2 holes on the control board aren't connected to the power board. It won't work if they aren't connected. Also, The middle wire of J1 seems interconnected with the throttle wires. Are you hooking up the middle wire of J1 to anything? It shouldn't go to the potentiometer.

ken · 11-05-2010, 01:23 PM

I fix the 2 wires to PH1 & PH2, And I took the middle wire J1 out. And I hooked it all back up and I still get not a thing. NOW WHAT? THANKS KEN

apowers · 11-05-2010, 08:03 PM

On the potentiometer one wire should be connected to the center terminal and one to one of the other terminals. Depending on what direction you want the potetiometer to turn. I noticed that the thermister is mounted on the board and not inbedded in the heat spreader. That should not keep it from working but might not do much good there.
Alvin

ken · 11-15-2010, 04:19 PM

Good news I got my controller to run today. It made the motor go around and I didn`t even have to push on the gas petal... But the BAD news is I burn up the hole side of the controller bi B- all of the mosfets. Can I replace them and make it work agian? What would make the motor spin with out pushing on the petal? thanks ken

TomEV · 11-15-2010, 09:33 PM

If it is a series motor, the normal connections are:

+ A1 S1>>A2 S2 - (large cable between S1 and A1)

If the motor turns the wrong way, connect it this way:

+ A1 S2>>A2 S1 -

Connecting power to A1 and A2 will give power to the armature, but it will not be able to react against the field because S1 and S2 don't appear to be powered in your setup.

It is possible you blew out the FETs because of the essential dead short A1 to A2.

apowers · 11-16-2010, 10:18 AM

If a mosfet is is dead with a short it will allow power to go to the motor when the contactor is turned on. Even without pedal. All of the mosfets may not be bad. If they are still hooked up they all will show a short. If you un-solder a source or drain one at a time and recheck you can find the bad one. There can be more than one.