Help me brainstorm the perfect truck

[Frank Lee]

I may be having a brain fart but I don't understand this axle swap reasoning. The bigger the rotating mass, the bigger the gearsets and meshes> the more power it absorbs, increasing drivetrain losses. You want the smallest, lightest axle that is strong enough for the job.

[mikeyjd]

Originally Posted by Frank Lee

I may be having a brain fart but I don't understand this axle swap reasoning. The bigger the rotating mass, the bigger the gearsets and meshes> the more power it absorbs, increasing drivetrain losses. You want the smallest, lightest axle that is strong enough for the job.

I think that the concern was addressed by rooster when he noted the huge weight increase of the 4bt (500+ lbs or so i think). I am wondering if that Kubota V2203-DI is big enough to do the trick because i'd love to go smaller/more fe if possible. any more opinions?

[mikeyjd]

A quick Question: Why don't the Dodge Dakota's with the 5spd manual 3.9liter get better fe?

Answer: Gasoline...

[Frank Lee]

We are talking about a heavier engine up front needing a stronger axle out back?

[jamesqf]

Originally Posted by cRiPpLe_rOoStEr

In many situations, either some knobby tyres or a differential lock could deal with. Other folks often work around the e-brake to get individual secondary levers for each rear wheel, which ends up acting nearly the same way as a limited-slip differential.

I don't think so. The problem with washboards is that the tires are effectively in the air much of the time, so no traction. Plus they speed up a bit, and when they come down are moving a bit faster than they should be, so they spin. With 4WD, the front and back axles aren't likely to be airborne simultaneously, which keeps everything under control.

Then there's the fact that I can just buy a 4WD truck and not spend time messing with mods that may or may not work. And I get a low range to boot. Put knobby tires on it and there goes my highway mpg...

[Frank Lee]

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3FshOpPqj88

4x4 FTW!

[slowmover]

Originally Posted by bestclimb

I fell for this line of thought before the 2wd rig I have is less than useless for half the year, the other half it is very limited. A 2wd truck works for you and that's great for most people though if they are going to use it off road 2wd is a severe penalty.

If you are going off road bring some recovery gear, jack shovel, hand winch and a snatch strap at least. With 2wd you get stuck in a spot that a 4wd will just walk through. Getting stuck has less to do with the vehicle and more to do with the driver misreading the vehicle's capabilities.

I think we should distinguish what is meant by "off road". I daily run quite a few miles on "unpaved" oil lease roads. 4WD is not an advantage long term. Higher up front costs, far higher maintenance costs, and the FE penalty (not to mention on-road safety penalty due to poorer braking and greater rollover propensity). The Forest Service roads in the Lower 48 have some similarities, but it would be the grades (up & down) that are the big difference that would make 4WD a more likely choice.

If the OP has some business reason (income-generating or offsetting) to run unpaved roads in and out of the hills or mountains I'd imagine he'd say so. And I'd agree that those "roads" and places where roads don't exist are the province of 4WD. In which case truck spec rules out 30-mpg (short of some world-truck Japanese diesel which are not sold here) for on-road economy.

Fuel economy means trade-offs. The lack of "convenience" means being slower.

It comes down to the payload. What are all the costs involved in the "convenience" of a pickup truck? It may be possible to have a small pickup that comes close to averaging 30-mpg . . but it sure won't be easy, either. Not on a small budget. Trailers have the advantage, thus far (until the OP more clearly defines needs over wants).

.

[Slow_s10]

I know this has already been discussed to death but I just want to throw out there that you really need to identify why you want a 4wd truck. And not just that but break it down why do you need a truck? what do you intend to haul with it? Why do you need 4WD? where are you planning on taking it? Or are you just trying to hedge against what you might need it for someday?

The only reason I ask is because for 6 years my daily driver was a 2.2L 1998 S10 (not the one in my Avatar) and I averaged a solid 28mpg in it without even trying. With my best one tank average at 31... which again compared to what I know now I still wasn't even trying that hard, not to mention I had a full load in the truck including a passenger. But I have I hauled everything I ever needed to haul with it that truck, and I have driven it everywhere I have ever needed to go including on some (very) mild offroad trails and through some of the worst winter storms our area has ever seen.

Now don't get me wrong if you need something that can legitimately haul a serious load and do it far off the beaten path then by all means keep researching and find (or build) the ideal truck for yourself. But All I am saying is make sure that you stay realistic about what you need. When It comes to trucks you can pretty much have any three of these, Capacity, Capibility, Efficency, or Cost. But that last point is almost always going to suffer, you just need to nail down what your priority is.

[oil pan 4]

Originally Posted by cRiPpLe_rOoStEr

knobby tyres.

Don't run mud or AT tires on the highway. If you are like most people and do 99% of your driving on paved roads then you do not need mud or AT tires.
If you occasionally need mud tires then I offer 2 alternatives:

1, Buy a set of deticated mud tires and put them on their own rims.
2, Get a set of snow chains and put them on highway tires for trail use.

I learned the tire chain trick about a month after I put the yoko AT-S tires on my suburban.

[mikeyjd]

OK. So here's where I am at in my research stage:

1. I probably don't "need" 4wd (although it would be convenient at times. chains will likely work fine)

2. I want a Diesel (I plan on a DIY wvo conversion down the road)

3. I probably don't need to tow anything over 5000 pounds ( a full smaller work/utility trailer or popup camper)

4. It only needs 2 seats (although I like bigger cabs for the luxury of it)


These findings are moving me toward a vw rabbit caddy with a beefed upped suspension
(double up the leaf springs was said to make it similar payload to a 1ton) and perhaps a locking differential. What do you guys think of the caddy idea? Potential shortfalls include?