How To Build a Cheap Traction Circuit

[williamson]

TO 1-EV.com: I think there may be an error in the second schematic that you recommended. It starts "DIYelectric.com...." The schematic shows the accessory battery charger as a GO-Power 45 amp model. The data sheet says only a AC input. This schematic shows a traction voltage input, maybe 144 volts DC. This supply is great, only $199 on ebay or Amazon. But I would prefer to clear this up before someone runs out and buys one--or hooks it up! I am not registered on this forum. Kindest regards, Williamsomn

[1-ev.com]

Originally Posted by williamson

TO 1-EV.com: I would prefer to clear this up before someone runs out and buys one--or hooks it up! I am not registered on this forum. Kindest regards, Williamsomn

This was just an example of the schematic, publicly available. We should always check with electrical engineer or an electrician before touching anything greater then 36v....

[DJBecker]

Originally Posted by 1-ev.com

This was just an example of the schematic, publicly available. We should always check with electrical engineer or an electrician before touching anything greater then 36v....

The safety break-point is actually 50V.

That somewhat arbitrary limit is the reason that so many things are 48V. Military vehicles have commonly used 28V systems (two '12V' batteries), and modern vehicles are starting to use 42V (3* 12V = 42V, if your 12V system is really 13.8V). They would have liked to use "48V", but four 12V batteries in series is 53-54V while charging.

An EE isn't going to be able to tell you what is safe just by looking at a schematic, they will only be able to point out things that are definitely unsafe. Keeping galvanic isolation requires looking at all of the as-built details.

[1-ev.com]

Originally Posted by DJBecker

The safety break-point is actually 50V.

That somewhat arbitrary limit is the reason that so many things are 48V. Military vehicles have commonly used 28V systems (two '12V' batteries), and modern vehicles are starting to use 42V (3* 12V = 42V, if your 12V system is really 13.8V). They would have liked to use "48V", but four 12V batteries in series is 53-54V while charging.

An EE isn't going to be able to tell you what is safe just by looking at a schematic, they will only be able to point out things that are definitely unsafe. Keeping galvanic isolation requires looking at all of the as-built details.

I am looking from legal perspective of it, we cannot promote here working "Freely" with more then save voltage, define by OSHA or other agencies... General reader cannot work with high voltage without level of education that allow him/her work on their own... so on ... boring ... legal ... stuff...

That would include checking schematic before try to implement it ...

That is my point, that all...
Happy EVing...

[williamson]

For 1-EV.com: I called the technical assistance at Go-Power. They said the AC suppy works on up to 160 volts DC! You could have knocked me over! It's not on the data sheet. I asked him to issue a EV data sheet that gives the DC input range, and the max adjustable DC output. He said this was true for all current levels, right up to 75 amps. This is the CHEAPEST alternator substitute I have ever found! The output is only 14.2 volts. This will not fully charge a maintenance-free battery (all modern accessory batteries). But it will charge it enough to make it useable. Alternators charge to 15.4 volts. Test one (anyone??) on an ICE engine, please. I asked Go-Power to issue a new unit that outputs 15.4 volts. Who knows, but I won't hold my breath!