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Old 04-13-2012, 01:11 PM   #31 (permalink)
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1,500, I will keep that in mind when I go out and drive again. Im hoping that your motor/tranny is close to mine. It is unfortunate that there are not many with my vehicle who could give me the same information so that I could trust it more=-(

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Old 04-13-2012, 01:14 PM   #32 (permalink)
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I'm pretty sure your gear ratios are a lot shorter than mine, meaning higher revs. That means I can't give you any speed/gear advice, just rpm.

Your engine is also higher power than mine, but down low where we drive every day I don't think it's much more. Most of the extra output at 4000+ rpm. You could probably go a little lower than 1500 with that in mind.
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Old 09-17-2012, 03:31 PM   #33 (permalink)
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What are my MPG's when in neutral at set speeds? For example, if im in neutral going 10mph, whats my mpg's? If someone has numbers all the way up to 70mph, that would be cool!
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Old 09-18-2012, 09:30 AM   #34 (permalink)
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You can roughly calculate that. My car burns about 0.3 gallons per hour at idle. Neutral rolling mpg = mpg / gph. 10 mph = 33 mpg, 20 mph = 67 mpg, 30 mph = 100 mpg and so on. Your idle might burn a little more than mine so adjust those numbers down.
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Old 09-18-2012, 03:21 PM   #35 (permalink)
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Ah, I get it. And its MPG = MPH/GPH correct? Looked around online and it seems the average GPH for most cars is as low as .2 and as high as .5 depending on size of motor. 2litre and below is about .2-.3 and goes up from there. No wonder Pulse and Glide does such wonders when it comes to FE!
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Old 09-18-2012, 11:53 PM   #36 (permalink)
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I wouldn't worry that much about the acceleration, as long as you're not sitting in low gears revving the crap out of the engine excessively or accelerating extra slow.

Using slightly less gas to accelerate is easily offset by accelerating more than you need to and having to slow down more. I have a 1ZZ and on paper it looks like I should shift at over 3000 for max efficiency. However if I actually do this, in traffic I can be going way too fast by the time I'm shifting out of 1st. My strategy is, if there's no traffic and no lights ahead, give it the beans rev up a bit past 3k. The greater the likelihood that I need to slow down, the earlier I shift to 2nd. Since the engine is typically okay with just idling along in a high gear (makes knocking sounds and vibrations if you give it throttle though :O) if my speed is under 25mph I just drop it straight into 3rd or 4th and downshift as needed. Good for practicing fine throttle control on rev matches too.

Also I noticed you asking about how many seconds between shifts. If I'm understanding that correctly, don't wait between shifts, shift as fast as you can and avoid idling and revving the engine back up. This "transient" operation burns some non-trivial amount of fuel.

If you really want solid numbers though, your B18C1 (correct?) is pretty close in preliminary specs as the 1ZZ engine. I don't know what your gear ratios are but I think shifting at maybe a little over 3000 will give the highest efficiency.

By the way, I'm SO jealous of your rev limit and power.

Last edited by serialk11r; 09-19-2012 at 12:03 AM..
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Old 12-29-2012, 05:01 AM   #37 (permalink)
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I need to take out my IACV and fix the the high cold idle on my car. It's about 200-rpms above where it should be, ~1,700. My question is, how much extra gas am I using by having a higher idle?
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Old 12-29-2012, 09:20 AM   #38 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TheIVJackal View Post
I need to take out my IACV and fix the the high cold idle on my car. It's about 200-rpms above where it should be, ~1,700. My question is, how much extra gas am I using by having a higher idle?
Hmmm are you sure it's the IACV? My car cold idled at 1700 yesterday briefly but I think it's because I did a bad splice on an O2 sensor heater circuit wire and the ECU is having the engine idle high in case there was a more serious driveability issue. At any rate, 1700, 1500 not a big difference I imagine, it's probably just a few hundredths of a gallon per hour more.
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Old 12-29-2012, 02:36 PM   #39 (permalink)
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Yea I know it is. I had a funky start problem that I still kind of have but it's not as bad anymore. I took out the IACV to clean it and when I reinstalled it, I realized I hadn't turned in the plastic piece on the inside enough. That plastic piece regulates the cold idle.
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Old 12-29-2012, 03:13 PM   #40 (permalink)
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My car has a Teggy engine, in my case it was a faulty Fast Idle Thermo Valve, which is on the bottom of the throttle body. I bought a plate and blocked it off.

Apparently as they age, the expanding wax starts to not expand anymore and doesn't block off the extra air passage that raises idle when cold. My car starts fine cold even with it blocked off but it doesn't get sub-zero here.

CUSTOM BILLET WORKS

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