How to execute efficiency mods for 2001 FORD E350 with 7.3L diesel?

[oil pan 4]

With pure dumb luck I discovered the perfect kind of solar panel and how to attach it to a vehicle back in 2010 when I found some broken portable taxi way lights and harvested the solar panels out of them.
http://ecomodder.com/forum/showthrea...d-33015-2.html

Also read and adhere to all warnings about adding solar panels to a vehicle electrical system here.
http://ecomodder.com/wiki/index.php/Solar_12v_assist

If it's not going to be done correctly save your self a lot of time and money and don't do it at all.

[debit.servus]

Originally Posted by oil pan 4

With pure dumb luck I discovered the perfect kind of solar panel and how to attach it to a vehicle back in 2010 when I found some broken portable taxi way lights and harvested the solar panels out of them.
http://ecomodder.com/forum/showthrea...d-33015-2.html

Also read and adhere to all warnings about adding solar panels to a vehicle electrical system here.
http://ecomodder.com/wiki/index.php/Solar_12v_assist

If it's not going to be done correctly save your self a lot of time and money and don't do it at all.

Cool story bro, remember that not everyone is capable of reclaiming solar panels from specialty lighting, then using them as a substitute for an alternator.


People say to remove the roof rack, which has the solar panel on it; saying the solar isn't worth the increased aero drag. What other ways are there to keep the house batteries charged without a solar panel? Alternator while running, generator, or plug into the grid. Those other options cost more while on the road, can't imagine a net gain from going without the 220 watt solar panel.

If there is some low-cost way to mount the solar panel directly onto the roof to not need the roof rack I'll consider it. I know there are flexible panels one can directly stick onto the roof however I imaging they'll never pay for themselves in fuel savings.

Also, you realize the antenna is like 1% of the frontal surface area on a van this size? I am open to downsizing rear-view mirrors if it pays for itself in fuel savings within a reasonable timeframe. The name of the game is to minimize running costs (money and time costs) until I am not enslaved to the oil monopoly anymore.


Is there a fuel economy gauge costing $50 or less you recommend? I would just search for it however I like having recommendations from fellow ecomodders. I am unsure of what type of OBD this FORD van has.

A reminder, it has to pay for itself in lower running costs within 20,000 miles.

If I was for fuel savings at any and all costs I would have a regular-top van (or minivan or PRIUS) freezing in the dark, sweating in the heat and sipping gas on a sore and miserable ass.

[oil pan 4]

Driving a diesel you are enslaved by the oil monopoly. That is all there is to it.

The largest flex panels I found were 100w.
Do not attach standard panels to the roof rack.
The aluminum frame is very thin and not designed to take that kind of wind load and the aero penalty won't be worth the power you get.
With panels laying flat only expect 50% to 70% of rated power.

This is why I glued them to the roof, virtually no aero penalty. I only found 4 panels that were 5 or 6 watts each in those portable taxiway lights. I have 180 watts installed now. I bought all the panels I use now with money, so if I did it anyone can.
Those taxiway lights were how I discovered that particular type of panel.

What are you planning to use for a charge controller?

[Ecky]

A 220w solar panel on a roof rack will probably cause more load on the van's engine from drag when driving than it saves by generating power, as counter-intuitive as that sounds, though it really depends on the speed you're driving at. Remember that 220w is only about a third of a horsepower, and you might need as much as maybe 30-40HP when cruising on the highway. This means that, if you're getting 20mpg, the solar panel might save you 0.5% in reduced electricity load, which equates to about 1/10 of a mile per gallon. If you lose half a mile per gallon due to extra drag (which is reasonable and realistic), the panel is costing you 5x as much as it's saving. The added drag might even be more than that.

However, if you use it when the van is parked to run things, and the alternative is finding an electrical grid to hook up to, it may be worth leaving there anyway, despite it costing you money while driving around. Is it worth your time and effort to stash the panel inside, or to make it flush with the roof? Up to you.

Your van is almost certain OBD II, which became standard around 1995 and is still used. It's very remotely possible that it's J1939 or J1708 instead, but I doubt it. A Scangauge II runs about $125, and an Ultragauge is around $70:

UltraGauge OBDII Scan tool & Information Center

You could also use an OBDuino, which is cheaper but not plug-and-play. You need to splice into an injector ground and into the vehicle speed sensor line for this, and then it will require you to calibrate it over several takes of gas, keeping a close long on fuel consumption.

[debit.servus]

Originally Posted by Ecky

A 220w solar panel on a roof rack will probably cause more load on the van's engine from drag when driving than it saves by generating power, as counter-intuitive as that sounds, though it really depends on the speed you're driving at.

Most of my route this summer is freeway so think 55-85 MPH.

Remember that 220w is only about a third of a horsepower, and you might need as much as maybe 30-40HP when cruising on the highway. This means that, if you're getting 20mpg, the solar panel might save you 0.5% in reduced electricity load, which equates to about 1/10 of a mile per gallon. If you lose half a mile per gallon due to extra drag (which is reasonable and realistic), the panel is costing you 5x as much as it's saving. The added drag might even be more than that.

Sounds like I should take the roof rack and panel off, if the fuel savings is more than the additional cost to run a generator due to going without solar. How can I calculate this so I don't spend dollars to save pennies?

However, if you use it when the van is parked to run things, and the alternative is finding an electrical grid to hook up to, it may be worth leaving there anyway, despite it costing you money while driving around.

I am using a HONDA eu2000i to run things inside that can't run from the batteries. My dream life has me moving everyday.

Is it worth your time and effort to stash the panel inside, or to make it flush with the roof? Up to you.
...

Not worth the time to take the rack off everytime I desire to go somewhere.

Originally Posted by oil pan 4

Driving a diesel you are enslaved by the oil monopoly. That is all there is to it.

What about biodiesel? Yes I know the free grease party is long over but there are multitude of substances that can be burned in a diesel engine and can be collected for at time and fuel cost.

What substances can I burn in this fuel injected engine without any modifications to the fuel system? What would basic filtering equipment cost to filter out any impurities in the burnable substances, as clogging the fuel injectors and/or damaging the fuel system wipes out any and all fuel savings? I can't afford to take a chance, I have to be certain the van can run on it without damage.

What are you planning to use for a charge controller?

There is an MPPT controller in the van. Don't know the brand and model number.

[oil pan 4]

Do not run pure bio diesel, any waste oil, vegetable oil or any other nonsense in that 7.3L unless you don't mind replacing a $5,000 set of injectors.
With the 7.3L you picked the absolute worse kind of diesel fuel injection system to experiment with alternative fuels on.
The only other thing besides diesel that can be burned in the 7.3 is jet fuel.

Plus the methanol and lye used to make bio diesel all come from the petrochemical industry, and the 7.3 still needs oil changes and grease.

As long as the solar panel has some kind of working charge controller that is all that matters.

[debit.servus]

Originally Posted by oil pan 4

Do not run pure bio diesel, any waste oil, vegetable oil or any other nonsense in that 7.3L unless you don't mind replacing a $5,000 set of injectors.
With the 7.3L you picked the absolute worse kind of diesel fuel injection system to experiment with alternative fuels on.
The only other thing besides diesel that can be burned in the 7.3 is jet fuel.

Plus the methanol and lye used to make bio diesel all come from the petrochemical industry, and the 7.3 still needs oil changes and grease.

As long as the solar panel has some kind of working charge controller that is all that matters.

Really? So even micro-filtered waste or veggie oil will clog the injectors? If so, guess I can't run on them.

I know what your saying. Biodiesel needs oil to be made. And Oil Changes and grease need oil. Unlike diesel there is no need to change the oil or lubricate the drivetrain every 400 miles.

[oil pan 4]

Thick fuel will ruin that type of injector system. Doesn't matter how clean it is.
The powerstroke.com guy knows everything about what causes and prevents all kinds of problems the 7.3 and 6.0l engines.
Newer common rail also can take the thicker fuel.

What the people who run waste vegetable oils won't tell you is how that sends thousands of diesels to the junk yard every year. The only injection systems that can handle vegetable oils are rotory injection and medium pressure plunger type and unit injectors like found on old Detroits. All of which are mechanical diesel injection systems.

[debit.servus]

Originally Posted by oil pan 4

Do not run pure bio diesel, any waste oil, vegetable oil or any other nonsense in that 7.3L unless you don't mind replacing a $5,000 set of injectors.
With the 7.3L you picked the absolute worse kind of diesel fuel injection system to experiment with alternative fuels on.
The only other thing besides diesel that can be burned in the 7.3 is jet fuel.

Plus the methanol and lye used to make bio diesel all come from the petrochemical industry, and the 7.3 still needs oil changes and grease.

As long as the solar panel has some kind of working charge controller that is all that matters.

Originally Posted by oil pan 4

Thick fuel will ruin that type of injector system. Doesn't matter how clean it is.
The powerstroke.com guy knows everything about what causes and prevents all kinds of problems the 7.3 and 6.0l engines.
Newer common rail also can take the thicker fuel.

What the people who run waste vegetable oils won't tell you is how that sends thousands of diesels to the junk yard every year. The only injection systems that can handle vegetable oils are rotory injection and medium pressure plunger type and unit injectors like found on old Detroits. All of which are mechanical diesel injection systems.

Wow I didn't know that about fuel injection.

Can I burn anything other than diesel from the gas station or jet fuel without damage or modification?

[Ecky]

I'm not speaking from a place of experience here, but I'd guess that you can probably burn various clean waste solvents, so long as it's mixed with and still mostly diesel. Cutting your fuel a bit is probably still achievable.

A modern engine generally trades versatility for efficiency and economy. Even if you have to run gas station diesel, you're almost certainly going to come out ahead financially.