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Old 12-08-2020, 08:00 AM   #51 (permalink)
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Indexing plugs

Are they the correct plugs for the car?

https://ecomodder.com/forum/showthre...ght-29879.html

i had the idea they were correctly indexed if the proper color code was used.

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Old 12-08-2020, 08:12 AM   #52 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Stubby79 View Post
If not pre-ignition, then why the stuttering under load in lean burn? Why seem less with better gas in it? Unless that was entirely in my head.

On the other hand, if it was firing the spark plugs a bit too early, due to the cam chain, I suppose that might cause it.

Hows about the non-indexed spark plugs? If that caused some of the mixture to burn, but not all, the rest of it might get ignited by the build up of pressure and suddenly what's left self-ignites right before TDC and causes a jerk, like, presumably the timing being too far advanced.

Of course, I haven't heard any pinging in the exhaust. Maybe you won't with engines that don't open the exhaust valve until BDC. Didn't notice it on my Metro with the XFI cam, no matter how low of an RPM you got when upshifting.

*scratches head* Now I'm just confusing myself, or at least feel like I'm missing something. We'll see what happens as I check off each variable until it goes away. With the fuel, that might take a month or two before I can fill it with all fresh...
There are threads on Insight Central of people trying to chase this down. Some have reported success, but I can't remember offhand what the fixes were. Seems to happen to some higher mileage engines, develops as the miles increase. Could be any number of reasons. Honda had to pull off a magic trick to get reliable combustion at a 24:1 AFR.
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Old 12-08-2020, 10:54 AM   #53 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Stubby79 View Post

Of course, I haven't heard any pinging in the exhaust.
I take this back. Sort of. Just test drove it. There's a distinct growl and a rattle, any time under extreme load while under 2000rpm. It doesn't sound like marbles bounding around in my engine, though. I heard what sounded like the same rattle when I hit a small but sudden bump, so the rattle is just as likely to be from (not so good) engine vibrations making something else rattle. Dunno.

It happens regardless of if its extreme load while in lean-burn or if it's out of it, though the in-between - ie just after it goes out of lean burn but before you get the pedal down a lot farther, where it's not an extreme load for the throttle position - is fine.

I define "extreme load" as when the car is completely unable to accelerate, despite opening up the throttle more. Not usually a problem with typical gearing, but with the insight's tall gearing, it occurs easily. Typically gets worse the longer you stay in this state, though that could be the RPM's slowly dropping off. If it can pull out of it, it's not an issue. If you're over 2000rpm, it's never an issue. That makes it more pleasant to cruise over 60mph than it does at 55 and under.

She's definitely less stuttery. But it was after putting in some higher octane gas. It might be the same, it might be better after dicking around with the spark plugs. Hard to remember exactly what it was like a few days ago, after only a couple of trips with the higher octane in it. Whether or not it is, it's certainly no worse, which means I'll leave the spark plugs as is for now.

I put the new rotors on before going for a test drive:



I looked closely at the old rotors. Was looking for hairline cracks that I might have not noticed previously. Didn't find any. About the worst I found was this rash:



Might have been enough to have been doing it. If nothing it suggests that they're made of cheap metal, or at least cast on the cheap. Of course, it might not have been the rotor's fault, could have started as rust pitting, if the brake pads had sat there holding dampness against it for ages. But there is no impression of the brake pads there, while there still is elsewhere. Or some foreign material might have been ground in to the metal when braking hard. Who knows.

One would have hoped the sanding I did to them would have smoothed the edges of this rash and taken off the impressions left from where the brake pads sat for ages, but it obviously did not. A proper machining probably would have done it, though if it was the rotor itself at fault, it would have come back eventually. You have to look hard to find any of the swirl marks left from my sanding...plenty visible near the top in the pic, but for the most part, you could hardly tell.

The marks in the metal around the "drilled" spots appear to be more pitting/rash. More evidence to point at low quality metal and/or casting.

I didn't spend much on the new rotors, but they were one of the few on the "daily driver" quality from RockAuto. Heck they were cheaper than some of the econo-quality ones. But since they're not, I expect they will hold up a lot better than the old ones, and no drilling or slots in them to compound the likeliness of variations in the metal's quality.

I like the look for drilled rotors, but what's the point when the wheel completely covers them anyway? Not like I'm going to throw better looking wheels on it. The only thing I would consider are Civic VX/HX (whichever it is) ones. These are probably lighter still, and certainly more aerodynamic.

Anyway, it was SOOOooo nice to come to a gentle stop - like I usually do - without vibrations and the steering wheel shaking in my hands, so this was a distinct success that makes the car nicer to drive. As does less engine jerkiness from the gas and/or spark plugs. I'll be quite happy driving it daily, now. (until it starts getting below freezing and I want more traction, anyway).

45 minutes to change the rotors. Not quick enough to make Xist's list, but still quick....compared to two hours dicking around with spark plugs. Including starting up and cleaning up, everything torqued properly and checked twice(Cuz if you're not going back in again ever again, you should be damned sure its perfect).

Happy with her now, and for a job going finally smoothly.

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Old 12-08-2020, 11:14 AM   #54 (permalink)
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I've found common rattle points include the catalyst heat shield, the plastic engine cover, and the air box. But there are plenty of others.
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Old 12-08-2020, 11:36 AM   #55 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by nemo View Post
Are they the correct plugs for the car?

https://ecomodder.com/forum/showthre...ght-29879.html

i had the idea they were correctly indexed if the proper color code was used.
Correct plugs - as in the same iridium with the same part number written on it, but they are not indexed. There is no A, B or C stamped on the top of them.

Which reminds me, I didn't look at the A, B or C stamped on the head by the spark plug holes. There was a DIY heat shield there, a thin sheet of aluminum, being held on by the coil's bolts. Someone was concerned with heat rising up off the catalytic converter, it seems. Thought it was OE with how well it fit until I noticed the relief cuts made in it, obviously made by hand shears.

Ecky, thanks. I'll start banging on things to see what's rattling one of these days when I'm in/around those areas anyway, or when it starts bugging me enough.
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Old 12-09-2020, 07:34 AM   #56 (permalink)
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Anyone able to confirm if these things came with paint this glittery? I think it’s had a custom paint job, personally.

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Old 12-09-2020, 10:13 AM   #57 (permalink)
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Either custom or major body damage. I've seen such on high priced vehicles s but not yours.
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Old 12-09-2020, 01:48 PM   #58 (permalink)
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That looks extra sparkly up close, but it looks like a normal Silverstone Metallic paint in your other photos. I can try getting a closeup of my paint. If it's been repainted, there is probably some evidence of masking, or overspray somewhere.
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Old 12-09-2020, 02:05 PM   #59 (permalink)
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First hint was when I first got it and found a tiny bit of peeling near a seam...with more plain looking silver paint underneath. First thought: it's been repainted, or that's one interesting clear coat.

Doing the brakes a couple of days ago, i saw overspray in the wheel well. Not much, but it's there. Front end repair, or was she completely repainted?

It looks silver in the light. In the dark, under street lamps, it looks grey...with a sheen where the light catches it. Like...pewter grey, not the bright aluminium-like shade of silver every other silver car is. It was under such a street lamp in that photo, and my phone didn't set off the flash.

Reminds me of the metallic blue pearl on my Z...though that needs full sunlight to set it off. This needs less light or the whole thing just brightens up. I kept noticing it in my garage, while working on it. Then completely forgetting about it when I got it outside, where it just looks pretty normal.

It really does look like it does in the photo, in the right conditions. Enough to make me stop and question what I'm seeing.



Well, some day I'll take a clay bar to it and then polish it up; Seems there's something there to bring out.

PS: This is a good thing...I didn't want a silver car. I was going to see about painting it charcoal...but this is deep enough - when I see it - for me to like. (Still, a nice charcoal with that much glitter...*drool*)
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Old 12-09-2020, 02:48 PM   #60 (permalink)
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I went looking for info on one of the coolest colors I've ever seen. Polychromatic Grey. Imagine metallic flakes about that size, but equal parts red, blue and green. I saw it on a 1956 Buick (probably in the 1970s) but it turns out it's probably a Norton motorcycle color. https://www.nortonownersclub.org/node/7129 The last comment suggests as an alternative Platinum Grey Metallic over a gold base coat.

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