Intake Manifold Injection

[MGB=MPG]

8-10K on those plugs ..

humm heavy deposit ,, a matter of perception i suppose .. not in my judgement

link to the Bosh Document on plugs .

http://www.boschautoparts.com/Techni...kPlugFaces.pdf

some of the gearheads think one needs to examine closely way down on the insulator to *properly* read a plug.. but thats TOP FUEL [ well i am running a little top fuel] i offer MFR .. advice ..

a wee bit erosion on these ,, they got dressed with a points file and set before restoring them to engine..
p1 & p1a is my #1 plug close and closer .. minimal erosion





heavy_ash is from reference of heavy deposit with noticeable erosion,, UNSAT

[EdKiefer]

the wear looks ok to me for 8-10k . what is normal OEM change interval from MG , around 15k ?

rest looks ok to me , thou8gh its easier to read plug with less miles on it IMO .

[oil pan 4]

http://ecomodder.com/forum/showthrea...p-17904-2.html

I think I found the magic exhaust valve burning A/F.

Yes an EGT might show it.
If you want to use an A/F ratio gauge a problem I see is most of the affordable A/F gauges out there only read A/F out to about 15.5:1. Slightly leaner than 15.5:1 is where I believe the valve burning happens.

[Pendragon]

Those plugs look positively nasty. I have seen MGB plugs from stock engines that had a lot more miles on them than that and they looked a lot better than that.

When you start messing with water/alcohol injection you need to be checking plugs a whole lot more frequently than 8k miles. If you get a bad distribution of the mixture you can burn a valve or cylinder in a heart beat. Just ask any of the Unlimited racers at Reno about how easy it is to blow up an engine.

Military aircraft in the piston era used a water/alcohol injection system to boost power briefly for takeoff. There was only so much you could carry without compromising gas (range) or payload (ordnance) and the engines were not built to take it for long anyway.

If you are burning exhaust valves I would suggest that you are a candidate to replace them with SS valves, perhaps even sodium filled ones, if you want to continue this experiment. (Do the valve seats while you have the head off.) Despite their racing history, MGB production engines were never meant to take a lot of abuse although they put up with more than most people would imagine.

By the time you get into an EGT, cylinder head temp and adjustable fuel mixture setup, I am afraid that you will be defeating the purpose of an MGB which is simply reliable (well, at least by British standards) transport that is fun, even at slower speeds, with a top that is easy to put up and down.

The modern day version of the MGB is the Mazda Miata, at least the first version.

Did you even install modern valve seats in the head? That is a fairly useful thing to do to prevent "valve recession".

In any event, have fun with your project.

[MGB=MPG]

those plugs are quite crusty ..
but the gaps were pretty good [measured and adjusted] minimal erosion and the electrode clean ..

this machine is a 1979 came with emissions & catalytic converter .. NO-Lead Head from factory ..I never had the head off

be sure i'm looking at those plugs quite often, In-fact since i added some Snake-Oil "Restore" to the sump i have been checking cyl compression ever tank of fuel.

its just back in service after Hiatus for coachwork.. im still looking for a baseline , trying to burn off the initial add of *soup* to the top jar and get baseline wit MMO[mystery Marvel Oil] dripped in the intake ..

it is interesting to me that after the addition of the Top Jar i was UNABLE to get any *ping* even with the timing way too far advanced[60BTDC !!!!!!!]
i tried to set by ear and was unable.. had demonstrated good success using that methodology previous ..

[EdKiefer]

those plugs look fine with A/F heat range, though it looks like the color change on ground electrode is towards the base . there is slight increase in deposits but you are in affect running fuel additives , which will show same thing with heavy doses .

What exactly are you running in the drip jar ?

are you running MMO in it ?

[MGB=MPG]

Design on that top Oiler is for MMO

i had nitromethne 20% /methanol 70% /castor oil 10% ..in it

i considered putting some acetone in the mix but flash point on acetone is much too low for my comfort zone

ran about half a jar of that soup pretty quick .. one problem is that that mix is colorless and have trouble making it out in the sight glass ..MMO has color and i cam make it ..

i wanted to run a few tank with straight MMO and became convinced it got gummed up ..just ran 25 miles on a fresh tank of fuel and decided to dismount and flush the jar.

i suppose baseline for this tank is shot since i dumped into the main tank.. several oz. MMO and less than one oz the soup.. into 12 Gal heritage [no ethanol] fuel..

got the top oiler clearly feeding with 2 full turn on the needle valve and noticed my hot idle oil pressure was up by one full increment .. from 2 kg/cm to 3 kg/cm.. humm
2 turns makes it smoke .. i dialed back to 1/4 turn..

after i stop tweaking on the mixture and decide i have baseline intent is to mix up a little soup and run it through..

[Pendragon]

Originally Posted by MGB=MPG

Design on that top Oiler is for MMO

i had nitromethne 20% /methanol 70% /castor oil 10% ..in it

i considered putting some acetone in the mix but flash point on acetone is much too low for my comfort zone

ran about half a jar of that soup pretty quick .. one problem is that that mix is colorless and have trouble making it out in the sight glass ..MMO has color and i cam make it ..

i wanted to run a few tank with straight MMO and became convinced it got gummed up ..just ran 25 miles on a fresh tank of fuel and decided to dismount and flush the jar.

i suppose baseline for this tank is shot since i dumped into the main tank.. several oz. MMO and less than one oz the soup.. into 12 Gal heritage [no ethanol] fuel..

got the top oiler clearly feeding with 2 full turn on the needle valve and noticed my hot idle oil pressure was up by one full increment .. from 2 kg/cm to 3 kg/cm.. humm
2 turns makes it smoke .. i dialed back to 1/4 turn..

after i stop tweaking on the mixture and decide i have baseline intent is to mix up a little soup and run it through..

Acetone is not something to mess around with. It has a flash point of minus something or other F. I would be very surprised if you did not also have fuel vaporization problems in the fuel line before it ever gets to the engine. Not to mention that it is a solvent of who knows what in the fuel system.

[MGB=MPG]

solvent-
not to mention corrosive effects .

can not link just now but all these solvents have corrosive effects on *different* metals .. methanol and ethanol are corrosive to different metals ..

the body of the carb comes to mind. .. then the plastic parts . fuel lines. fuel level float , internal parts in the fuel pump , carb bowl float..

this is going straight from the jar in engine bay down a short copper pipe to centerpoint cast iron intake manifold ..



in the *thought* experiment phase of this i examined the flash points ,density, solubility ,miscibility, so forth of these substances.

on the net one can find various wild men adding nitromethane to a gasoline fuel tank.a waste of time i think since i do not think nitromethane mixes with gasoline and with a higher density goes to the bottom and rolls around ..

i have read claims of acetone in the tank increasing FE - some claim 35% [none proved to my satisfaction] its cheap and easy to obtain but the flash points and flammability are scary flash point for Acetone - Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia -17C. Nitromethane and fuel grade methenol , on the other hand are not so easy to procure and costy. Methenol/water mixes are easy to procure [AKA windshield washer fluid]

net research will reveal many New ,pressurized [pump driven] top injectors using MW 50 [methanol/water 50% ] some with 20% nitromethane ,, injecting into turbocharged units , intent to cool the exhaust flow in order to keep from melting down the turbine blades ,, but these cats are running EGT upwards 1600F - if i see 1400 i back out and adjust ..target value of 1250 .
EGT is a nice gauge, i would like CHT [cylinder head temp] and oil temperature but i am running out of panel space for gauges.

since i have to run a full tank [ or substantial portion] to calculate FE it will take me a very long time to run these trials .

a header tank with increments would be nice ,

[George Tyler]

I was thinking....the sounds like the fuel used for model aircraft glow plug engine fuel! what is the theory behind this, why should it inprove fuel consumption?