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Old 09-13-2011, 09:49 PM   #51 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by pletby View Post
Rock on man! Great job!


I found I CAN actually restart and put my car in drive at speed without any catastrophic failure! (by accident) I tried pulse and glide tonight for the first time with this car. Smooth as silk as long as I stay out of the range of 2nd gear where it bumps a bit. Look for big change in my results with this next tank. I can see where I'll need to plug in the car now though (charger installed) as I am going a LONG way with the engine off, then using the starter. LOG(ing) away! I'm so happy!
Will you be starting a fuel log for the echo work car? Its good to hear you are having success with the bumpstarting.
The 2 weeks between fuel ups seems so long I get impatiant to see the new numbers for 90 day mpg. The next jump will be to 59mpg if I can keep up the results I am getting now. I emagine that after 59 mpg the number will rise more slowly as I aproach the 64mpg limit I am at now. I will soon be in the top ten gas cars group. I will then have to find some other way to the top, a boat tail perhaps...

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Old 09-14-2011, 01:26 PM   #52 (permalink)
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So I'm interested in trying this, I tried pulse and glide on the way back home from work. I've never popped the clutch before so I'll be popping my clutch popping cherry... I'm going to try this is a parking lot first but is it better to do this at lower RPM?

For example, when I was trying P&G, I stayed in 5th, accelerated to 90km/h(~2000RPM), neutral, coasted to 70km/h (N ~1100RPM), and went into gear again (70km/h in 5th ~1700RPM). I would try to rev match when going back into gear, which seems counter intuitive to fuel economy...

So I guess my question is: is it safe to just put it in gear? the same with popping the clutch, I thought that was an "in case you can't start the car" not, "let's force the engine to start up every 40 seconds" so how does that work?
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Old 09-14-2011, 04:15 PM   #53 (permalink)
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The clutch and flywheel have a relationship very similar to what the pads and rotor have. A bump start isn't popping the clutch any more than tapping the brake pedal is locking up the brakes.
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Transmission type Efficiency
Manual neutral engine off.100% @MPG <----- Fun Fact.
Manual 1:1 gear ratio .......98%
CVT belt ............................88%
Automatic .........................86%

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Old 09-14-2011, 04:17 PM   #54 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ace0snipe View Post
So I'm interested in trying this, I tried pulse and glide on the way back home from work. I've never popped the clutch before so I'll be popping my clutch popping cherry... I'm going to try this is a parking lot first but is it better to do this at lower RPM?

For example, when I was trying P&G, I stayed in 5th, accelerated to 90km/h(~2000RPM), neutral, coasted to 70km/h (N ~1100RPM), and went into gear again (70km/h in 5th ~1700RPM). I would try to rev match when going back into gear, which seems counter intuitive to fuel economy...

So I guess my question is: is it safe to just put it in gear? the same with popping the clutch, I thought that was an "in case you can't start the car" not, "let's force the engine to start up every 40 seconds" so how does that work?
It is not safe to just put it in gear. You want to match the rev when doing your neutral coasting with the engine on. And with engine off coasting you want to only "bump" the clutch to the gear just enough to spin the motor a little and start it up. As you get better at this you will come to a point where you no longer even notice the re-start of the engine much at all. After you bump start get into gear using rev matching. Try at moderate speeds first, 40mph perhaps. As with many things... practice is the key. Be safe. Remember that when the engine is off power breaks will have 2 or so significant break pumps left in them with which to stop the car. Lots of us do this all the time with care and attention... it can be done safely and without significant engine wear when you practice and get good at it.
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Old 09-14-2011, 07:55 PM   #55 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by PaleMelanesian View Post
You really really really need to turn it back on as soon as the engine has stopped. You'll actually count for those missing miles. Even more important, all the electronics will be working. Little things like ABS and airbags. Be safe.

Mine is off more than it's on. Default mode is off and coasting. I turn it on when I need a boost, then it's off again.
Unless you've got a mechanical speedo/odo, which afaik all of my cars do (the speedo and odo keep working with the ignition off). Most things older than 1990 should, right?
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Old 09-15-2011, 03:17 AM   #56 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by California98Civic View Post
It is not safe to just put it in gear. You want to match the rev when doing your neutral coasting with the engine on. And with engine off coasting you want to only "bump" the clutch to the gear just enough to spin the motor a little and start it up. As you get better at this you will come to a point where you no longer even notice the re-start of the engine much at all. After you bump start get into gear using rev matching. Try at moderate speeds first, 40mph perhaps. As with many things... practice is the key. Be safe. Remember that when the engine is off power breaks will have 2 or so significant break pumps left in them with which to stop the car. Lots of us do this all the time with care and attention... it can be done safely and without significant engine wear when you practice and get good at it.
So if I understand correctly:

1) get up to speed
2) Neutral
3) Turn engine off, then back on after about a second
(I tried off-on and the engine just came back to life lol)
4) coast
5) before hitting lower limit, put in gear but only release clutch to friction point and back
6) with engine started, rev match
7) put into gear and accelerate?

and all this while paying attention to inclinations in the road and accelerating on decents and coasting on accents.

lol it was a bit of a "bumpy" ride to work
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Old 09-15-2011, 10:29 AM   #57 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ace0snipe View Post
So if I understand correctly:

1) get up to speed
2) Neutral
3) Turn engine off, then back on after about a second
(I tried off-on and the engine just came back to life lol)
4) coast
5) before hitting lower limit, put in gear but only release clutch to friction point and back
6) with engine started, rev match
7) put into gear and accelerate?

and all this while paying attention to inclinations in the road and accelerating on decents and coasting on accents.

lol it was a bit of a "bumpy" ride to work
Yup. That's why I say it is a bit like re-learning to drive. In a way it feels like learning the pilot the craft. Good luck. Take it easy. Be safe. Over time you'll get better at it and as you do FE numbers will climb. If you want to have some measures of the improvement, keep a "trip log" for you commute here at EM. Just record your commute FE using your UG or Scangauge (if you have one)... your trip FE will climb over time when you start getting the whole technique down and can use it over increasingly extensive stretches. Take your time. You'll get there.
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See my car's mod & maintenance thread and my electric bicycle's thread for ongoing projects. I will rebuild Black and Green over decades as parts die, until it becomes a different car of roughly the same shape and color. My minimum fuel economy goal is 55 mpg while averaging posted speed limits. I generally top 60 mpg. See also my Honda manual transmission specs thread.



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Old 09-15-2011, 09:54 PM   #58 (permalink)
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Some obsevations on my new style [LOG] of driving,

When, on rare occasion, I deside to do an agessive pass of a vehicle that will interfear with my LOG ing I briefly get to a speed that will not be mentioned... I pull back into my lane and EOC from this unmentionable for a very long distance.

I don't think I will ever be able to return to my old style of driveing, the EOC is just automatic for slopes, stop signs, red lights and any other time I need to slow down or stop.

Wind and rain still affect mpg when LOG ing

I now look for situations where following traffic will be able to pass me rather than situations where I will be able to pass.

Fuel cost is only 3.6% of my yearly net [after tax etc] income.

Last edited by redyaris; 09-19-2011 at 09:06 PM..
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Old 11-10-2011, 08:59 PM   #59 (permalink)
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I have notice that as the winter weather arrives the amount of EOC declines and the amount of P&G increaces, this is due, in part to the winter tires which do not coast as well as my summer tires. Driving in the dark morning and night, also tends to decrrease EOC.
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Old 11-11-2011, 03:51 PM   #60 (permalink)
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Funnily enough I'm finding my coasts to be longer - or maybe it it because I'm filming myself...

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