It's ALIVE!!! (Twin Star video)

[koihoshi]

This is a really cool project. I love the old vintage Honda bikes. I have an old CB360 i've stripped down for a little fun putt around bike. They are way too much fun. Thumbs up on this one!

[Christ]

Thank you, koihoshi.

I'm going to take some pics either tonite, or tomorrow, but I'm in the process of getting the bike back together now. I've removed the seat cover, stripped it down to the pan, and I'm getting ready to put some temporary foam back on there so I can build the seat cover back up for it, but eventually, the foam will be replaced with the same kind of underlayment you'll find in a Dodge Caravan, which is comprised mostly of recycled denim/cotton fibers in a mat with a plastic liner. It'll be piled on there in such a way to make a "butt cup" so that I can sit comfortably forward, without wanting to stuff my back into the trunk.

I'm also going to apply a backrest to the trunk, but keep it light. Weight is a concern when you've only got 185cc to play with! <|

I'm working on some aero, but I doubt I'll go all out with it. I'll save that for the other projects I want to work on, reverse trikes.

[koihoshi]

Have you considered using portions of the original stock seating and then using a corbin seat? They use a fabric and foam that is actually REALLY comfortable and conforms quite nicely, makes long rides much easier. I am pretty sure they make them for the vintage bikes.

As much modification as you've done it may not work, but is just a thought.

Although there's something about doing your own work to a bike that is far more satisfying. Great work. Can't wait to see the pics!

[Christ]

I was going to cut the pan, move the rear passenger section up into a back rest, trim it, paint it, and make screw-on seat pads for the bucket and back, then mount the trunk behind it.

I changed my mind when I couldn't envision the proper cut line for the shape I wanted. I'm just going to foam the bucket and make sure the upholstery is tight enough to keep moisture out, then bolt the trunk right down on to the rear passenger section of the pan.

I'm still working on getting things hidden and mounted, and still need a merge collector for the exhaust. (Accepting donations there... $40-$60 is a bit much for a piece of pipe, I think... LOL.)

In all honesty, I'd rather pay someone from here to weld one up for me and ship it than pay Walker Exhaust or some other large company to do it. I don't even expect great quality, just that it works.

I'm still working on getting the profile slimmed down as much as I can, but I'm running out of places to slim. The lower controls are the hardest part... they're already about as small as they can get, the only other option is to move it forward, so that I can taper back from it, not that I'm doing any sort of real body work at this point.

At this point, I've completely abandoned the idea of keeping it stock. Parts are too expensive, and I like it more my way.

[dcb]

I think nimh is a bust as a straight lead replacement.

You have a battery ignition, as in not a magneto. Per this link http://pages.prodigy.net/klricks/CM185T.html If you have access to a large capacitor or 8 in the junk pile you can try that in place of the battery, shut off the lights, and kick like mad till it starts, see if it runs ok (leave lights off initially). The caps go in parallel, you need at least 12v, and large.

You have a nice 48v bike project to look forward too also (or 24v @ 13ah)

[Christ]

I've started the bike before with no battery and ran it with the lights off (disconnected)

In fact, in that video, none of the lights are working (beginning of the thread) and the battery is dry, both leads disconnected.

It will run without charge, but I started it with a 12V battery, which was promptly disconnected after the engine started.

I do believe I will probably use the batteries for a local-use motive project of some kind, if even a scooter, else I'll sell them to someone on here that can use them. Decision is yet to be made there.

[dcb]

according to CM185T 1-8a.jpg
you can hold the starter button in to "turn off" the headlights while kicking it. The Yellow/Red lead going to the starter solenoid should be disconnected so the starter doesn't try to energize while you are holding in the start button.

And put a cap in it if it doesn't like running without a battery.

[Christ]

I think I'm going to remove the electric start feature altogether, and see how it runs with all the lights hooked up and working (still want to replace them all with LED's... ) and no battery or any sort of load equalization.

If something doesn't work out correctly, I'll see about getting a 12V cap to put in from any old piece of hard electronics laying around.

How do I wire a bank of caps? (I assume in parallel...)

The only ones I might have are pieces that come from low-end consumer electronics, such as old computer mobo's and the like. I'm not sure the capacity of those will really be sufficient to level the load, so to speak.

[dcb]

well if it kickstarts with the existing battery, then there ya go, if disconnecting the headlight helps it kickstart then you can hold in the starter button (after neutering the starter system).

[Christ]

The existing battery produces/stores no energy. It's dry. I'm going to wash it out first, and see if I can bring it back to life, but in the event that I can't, I'll probably see about going battery less. I think the light bulbs can handle the output of the alternator on their own, thanks to the rectifier, so I don't think I'll really need a load balancing method, but I guess we'll see!

I believe there is a place on the ignition switch that allows the engine to run without any of the lights on, or at least with only the headlight.