Jetta diesel - too loud or normal?

[Bill in Houston]

Originally Posted by Big Dave

Diesels will run nicely on used lube oil. Big thing these days is what is called W85. You take waste lube oil and filter it down to 3 microns and mix in 15% (by volume) RUG to make it flow. They tell me it works well with unit injectors (like the pompa dusa injectors on mid 00s VWs.) I’ve added 10% waste lube oil to my dino-diesel but haven’t tried waste oil and RUG. They tell me WVO is getting hard to come by but every oil change shop in the country is up to their ears in waste lube oil.

Oooo, now you're talking. Hope nobody blows themselves up with the gasoline, though.

[Christ]

Yep, its gonna be obnoxious.

I you intend to run a single fuel system, get a used set of injectors for about $50 off ebay, clean, rebuild them to 140+ bar, within 1 bar of each other. You will need to make a $50 pop tester to do this.

In the pop tester, use whatever fuel you intend to run the car on. If dual fuel, use the primary fuel. The viscosity of the fuel affects the breaking pressure of the injectors. You want to set them so they have a clean spray/fog with no drips/peeing, and a nice pattern.

Your injection pump timing wil also need to be adjusted, and it will be hit or miss. Set it to factory specs, then adjust it to the best setting for your fuel from there.

For ULSD, 130 bar is actually quite sufficient, due to its very low viscosity. It atomizes with very little effort. VW raised the break pressure on the turbo models to 150 bar to ensure proper atomization of the old stuff under boost.

Lower than stock break pressure advances the injection timing slightly. Make up for it by changing the timing at the pump.

If need higher break pressures, again, adjust pump accordingly.

The more I drive my golf, the more I find out that it's almost the polar opposite of driving a gasser, in terms of fuel economy.

[War_Wagon]

Originally Posted by Big Dave

Much cheaper than an old Insight with a played-out battery.

Hey hey that's TWO old Insights with possibly clapped out batteries ha ha. Thanks for the breakdown on the WVO etc. I know my friend used to run his Mazda diesel on a mix of pump diesel and used ATF fluid from the transmission shop across the street from him. Worked great for him.

I think the best example (and possibly a good lead for someone out there to find a good source of free fuel) I have of running a diesel for free was a friend of mine that worked at a helicopter repair company. When they serviced a helicopter, sometimes they had to drain the fuel. It was basically like a super high grade kerosene, and due to liability reasons they couldn't put the drained fuel back into the helicopter when it was repaired. So the shop had barrels of used fuel they had to pay to get rid of. Needless to say, when my friend started working there it took him about 3 days to buy a Nissan Hustler diesel. The boss was happy to not have to pay to get rid of it, and he drove for free.

I didn't realize the non-TDI VWs were that sought after. What would something like this be worth on the market?

[cleanspeed1]

Even with those miles on it, and as long as the fuel prices stay high, $2500 and up US. They kinda go the way of the Metro, money wise. The Eco Diesel parts are needed for those who want to do a turbo conversion on an IDI style motor, and they are not easy to come by.

[user removed]

Check the break off pressure on the injectors. If it is not up to spec then you get poor atomization and that could be a contributor to your noise and possibly even some of the smoke.

On MB the spec was around 1800 PSI. You can shim them or replace the springs and it will make a vast improvement.

regards
Mech

[Christ]

Originally Posted by cleanspeed1

Even with those miles on it, and as long as the fuel prices stay high, $2500 and up US. They kinda go the way of the Metro, money wise. The Eco Diesel parts are needed for those who want to do a turbo conversion on an IDI style motor, and they are not easy to come by.

If anyone paid that much around here, they'd get laughed at. Guys actually buy these cars for HUNDREDS, not thousands.
Factually, they're only "sought after"by people who want a perfect fuel supper and aren't willing to put much work into it and then it has to be in near perfect condition.

Parts for IDI VWs are cheap, except engine bits, but once you realize that you don't have to buy everything from the dealer, like the VW culture would suggest, you save a great deal of money.

Engine parts are the killer. Buy spares the first time you find them cheaply, and hang on to some.

[cleanspeed1]

You definitely have it better over where you are at, because around here, VW + diesel of any stripe means you're gonna pay.

Christ, you have a line on engines and such?

[Christ]

I have one spare VWidi, from an '81 Rabbit, paid $250 for it, complete, and an Altitude Compensating pump spare. The AC injection pump can be converted to an LDA pump easily, with no extra parts.

I just keep looking on CL, or the local tuner shop for something to turn up.

At one of my local junkyards, an engine is an engine, and its $300ish. 9 liter cat, or 1 liter suzuki.

[cleanspeed1]

I think I am going to have to head your way and pick up a couple of engines. The only reason I haven't gotten back into the IDIs again is just because of the prices around here.

[cleanspeed1]

This qualifies in the " are you kidding me ?" catagory.

86 VW Golf Diesel 3000.00

A bit high but only 107k miles.