04-01-2013, 11:45 AM
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#11 (permalink)
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Master EcoModder
Join Date: May 2009
Location: Australia
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If the DRL's aren't bright, I may as well switch them off. I think you'll agree that when driving a small car, other drivers seem not to see you. The 11w is what was advertised, and like I said, if they really drew 11w, even if they had poor efficiency, they'd be brighter than stock. Unfortunately, the measured draw is 3.6w, a fair amount short of the suggested 11w.
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04-01-2013, 12:17 PM
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#12 (permalink)
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Master Novice
Join Date: Jan 2008
Location: SE USA - East Tennessee
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You may have already thought of this or mentioned it, if you did then my bad but I didn't see it:
When installing red LEDs to replace incandescent bulbs, the lumen rating isn't a straight-across comparison. Some incandescent lamps in brake light fixtures are a white bulb behind a red filter...and the red filter significantly dims the amount of light that gets through. You might have a few hundred lumens of light coming from the lamp, but only a portion of that actually gets emitted as red light from the assembled brake light.
With the red LED, all of it goes through, or nearly all. So even though you would be down on emitted lumens from the lamp, your performance might be comparable or even superior from the assembly.
Do you have access to a light meter that could compare the performance of the two kinds of lights in the fixture? That's what really matters. Wherever possible if you're going to have an LED in a colored application, get the LED that already emits the color you need. Your wattage will go much farther since you aren't filtering out undesired wavelengths at the lens, and if necessary you can just make the fixture that much brighter to satisfy the CANBUS system. I think - I don't know about that last part, all my cars are old and unsophisticated, just like me. Thank God.
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04-01-2013, 01:44 PM
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#13 (permalink)
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Corporate imperialist
Join Date: Jul 2011
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1984 chevy suburban, custom made 6.5L diesel turbocharged with a Garrett T76 and Holset HE351VE, 22:1 compression 13psi of intercooled boost.
1989 firebird mostly stock. Aside from the 6-speed manual trans, corvette gen 5 front brakes, 1LE drive shaft, 4th Gen disc brake fbody rear end.
2011 leaf SL, white, portable 240v CHAdeMO, trailer hitch, new batt as of 2014.
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04-01-2013, 06:01 PM
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#14 (permalink)
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OCD Master EcoModder
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I think our OP has more detail knowledge on the topic than what's in the wiki link posted above. With all due respect.
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Driving '00 Honda Insight, acquired Feb 2016.
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04-01-2013, 06:11 PM
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#15 (permalink)
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Hypermiler
Join Date: Dec 2007
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The brightest 7443's at Superbright are about the same brightness as my oem incandescents were.
http://ecomodder.com/forum/showthrea...hts-25155.html
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11-mile commute: 100 mpg - - - Tank: 90.2 mpg / 1191 miles
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04-02-2013, 06:28 AM
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#16 (permalink)
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EcoModding Lurker
Join Date: Mar 2013
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Quote:
Originally Posted by oldtamiyaphile
I bought 2x 4S3P batteries off eBay. The two will be wired in parallel for a 4S6P pack, plus side being that one pack can be removed for cycling/ balancing without 'disconnecting' the battery. The 6P pack should be enough for summer driving, but a third pack (for 9P total) could be added for total security in winter. Cost $240 and save around 16kg. If the car wasn't under warranty I'd be able to go a bit further by removing the stock battery connectors, steel battery tray etc.
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Ok, but be careful with them. I had 4S1P pack in my cordless drill (szohmygod@ebay). It worked fine for ~20 charging cycles, but then went out of balance or something and broke down with wenting gas out while on charger.
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